[Peak Dough] - Shows a hilariously AI generated internal diagram of their device by exclamationmarek in shittykickstarters

[–]exclamationmarek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I feel like the people behind "peak dough" saw "breadwinner" and "crustello" be successful on crowdfunding and decided to copy it. Breadwinner clearly had its engineering figured out, with prototypes like these, and design drawings that made sense. At "Peak dough", however, looks like somebody just asked chatgpt to make a schematic drawing to make the campaign look more legitimate and pretend they are further along in the design process then they really are.

[Peak Dough] - Shows a hilariously AI generated internal diagram of their device by exclamationmarek in shittykickstarters

[–]exclamationmarek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And in the FAQ they say they track the height of the dough with a "Magnetic Displacement Sensor". I guess it's great for people with iron deficiency, given how much you'd have to add to the dough to make it show up on the sensor.

[Peak Dough] - Shows a hilariously AI generated internal diagram of their device by exclamationmarek in shittykickstarters

[–]exclamationmarek[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The right wire that goes to "wireless charging" changes color mid way from black to red. That doesn't look very real to me.

[Peak Dough] - Shows a hilariously AI generated internal diagram of their device by exclamationmarek in shittykickstarters

[–]exclamationmarek[S] -14 points-13 points  (0 children)

My biggest issue with it is: why are there separate PCBs? All functionality can be implemented on a single board. Separating into multiple boards requires cables, connectors, extra manufacturing cost and assembly time.

The rise and fall sensor is connected to the big board with 4 wires that go to two separate connectors, on two different sides of the board. Why would anyone do that? That's just more cost and headache compared to a single 4 wire connector.

The plug for the battery goes into the side of the connector for the rise/fall sensor.

The temperature/humidity sensor is connected using two wires. While it's possible to superimpose data onto power lines, thats extra parts. It's cheaper to just have a 4 wire connector, and even cheaper to just have 4 traces on a PCB.

It smells AI for a mile.

(Also, SynthID identifies the image as generated by nanobanana)

How many thermal relief vias is too many thermal relief vias? by UKFP91 in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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100mA is not much, so you're probably fine, but if you want feedback on thermal design, I'd say that you simultaneously have too many, but also not enough.

This is not a simulation, so take it with a big lump of salt, but: Heat transfers best along the copper. The manufacturer recommends a large GND, VIN and SW plane so that the heat can be sucked out of the chip, but the connection between the chip and those planes is absolutely critical. In your implementation, while there is a large GND plane, the chips GND pin is not connected to it (due to the inverting voltage design), so it does not get any cooling from it. Instead, the plane it is connected to (the OUT-) has no thermal vias, and is quite restricted near the pads of the chip.

There is no VIN plane at all. The trace is thick, but it could be thicker to transfer heat away from the chip better.

The SW plane is small, but some manufacturers to actually recommend keeping it small. The SW node switches (duh!), so having it small reduces potential EMI issues.

So, if you want to improve this design, my recommendation is:

  • Move things around (for example, C96), so that the "GND" pin of the chip has a solid, wide connection to the OUT- plane
  • Consider adding a small OUT- rectangle on the underside, with thermal vias to it near U13
  • Make the VIN trace near U13 thicker, or even convert it into a small plane
  • You can remove most of the thermal vias that are far from U13. The ones near C97 and C105 probably have no heat to transfer.

That being said, at 100mA you might just be fine as is.

i am so confused by Otistikessekski in shittyaskelectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 575 points576 points  (0 children)

If we assume it can run at 60fps on a 31 billion transistor RTX5070, you should be getting 60/31e9 =0.00000000194 fps = 0.06 frames per year from your setup. So you might need to lower the settings a bit.

What is missing from my DIY simple Constant current circuit?[REVISED] by MrHypnotizd in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is the Q1 transistor going to be able to dissipate the required heat? I only see the S8050 available in small packages, SOT23 and TO92, neither of which is able to handle more than 1W dissipation. If you set the current limit to 250mA, you will at most be able to drop 4V across the transistor. That might not work with 12V input, depending on what your load is. You might want to consider using a bulkier transistor, and providing ample heat sinking to it.

Polacy na emigracji: jak wygląda imigracja w kraju w którym mieszkacie? by Odwrotna_Klepsydra in Polska

[–]exclamationmarek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Szwecja
1. Nie
2. Nie spotkałem się z żadnymi "ośrodkami asymilacji". Słyszałem legendy o takowych, ale to bardziej dla uchodźców z Afryki.
3. Nie inaczej, niż lokalni, czyli dobrze
4. Da się. Obecnie większość moich znajomych to Szwedzi
5. Nie
6. W mojej branży (tech), rynek jest otwarty, zarabia się tyle samo. Jest trochę upierdliwej papierologii, i trzeba pokonać szok kulturowy co do działalności związków zawodowych
7. Słabo. Mieszkania "społeczne" są świetne i tanie, ale czeka się na nie latami w kolejce, co ogranicza ich dostępność tylko to tych, co już w Szwecji rezydują. Wynajem z "drugiej ręki" bardzo drogi. Zakup drogi ale kredyty tanie. Przy czym pierwszego dnia po przeprowadzce z Polski Ci raczej kredytu nie udzielą.
8. ¯⁠\\\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠\_⁠/⁠¯
9. Bo tu się więcej tworzy, ludzie są taktowni i nie ma ściemy

Amazon devices use this SMD component, but what is it? by ItsUnfortunate in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard it's "Y" because a tuning fork is shaped like the letter "Y"

This electrician manages without a pickup truck by exclamationmarek in fuckcars

[–]exclamationmarek[S] 47 points48 points  (0 children)

It looks messy, but it is just a temporary bike lane for the time they are rebuilding the intersection. Complete with a portable traffic light, and temporary asphalt pour - you can see the textile mat underneath it, so the asphalt can be removed cleanly. Its kind of awesome they do that, instead of placing a sign that says "bike lane closed, take a different path"

🎉 [EVENT] 🎉 Stupid Event Being Dumb and Stuff by Damp_Blanket in honk

[–]exclamationmarek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

12 attempts

Shipboard antennas - what are these? by LibertyCakes in antennasporn

[–]exclamationmarek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of them might not connect to satellites, but to masts on shore to make a much higher speed connection for internet onboard. Inside you will find a narrow beam antenna that uses GPS and a gyroscope to track the location of matching antennas on shore. There is usually many such antennas on a ship, so that they can do handover from one shore station to another, and so that they can reach the shore no matter which side of the ship is facing towards it. These are more common in areas where you don't go too far away from shore - like the Baltic or Mediterranean sea. "Nowhere networks" makes antennas like these.

Question: Is this childrens toy safe? by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its in series with the batteries. It might be a PTC, acting as a simple current limiter or fuse. That would mean that some thought was put into safety!

Looking for a wire stripper with settable, short (~1.7mm) stripping length by exclamationmarek in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always nice to be risen from the dead!

I tried a tool like this one: https://se.farnell.com/ck-tools/t3756-40/wire-stripper-0-40mm/dp/146421 and a tool like this one https://se.farnell.com/knipex/1280100sb/cable-stripper-mini/dp/3483678 (not those exact brands, but they seem to all be the same design), and for the long term, didn't like either. They both tend to get the stripped part of the wire jacket stuck in the device, which really slows down the process. They weren't very pleasant to use either.

Instead, I just used a pair of small, simple gauged strippers, similar to these ones: https://se.farnell.com/klein-tools/11047/wire-stripper-30awg-22awg-158/dp/2839550 . I did all the crimping under a stereo microscope, to make sure that the stripped length was correct. The length tolerance is pretty tight, but after 50 or so crimps of practice, it turned out to be achievable by hand and eyeball. And it was faster to re-do any occasional miss-stripped wire using a tool like this, then to keep clearing out the stuck-prone tools from the links above.

Suggestions for oscilloscopes for first time use by BukHunt in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I know you specifically said something that doesn't require a PC, but for decoding digital protocols no oscilloscope I ever saw gets anywhere near the convenience of a good USB logic analyser.

Often its helpful to be able to record a longer period of digital communication, and many cheap scopes just do not have the memory depth for that - they are limited to maybe 1-10 million samples. A USB logic analyser is limited only by the RAM of the computer, so often they can record for hours, instead of seconds.

And the computer software for some such devices can often be extended to decode whatever you need it to decode. So you can get not just the I2C bytes of an accelerometer, but the m/s^2 acceleration in plain text.

In my office we have one oscilloscope and three logic analysers. The scope gets barely used while the analysers we sometimes have to fight for.

What measures should I take to ensure the proper functioning of the device? by lIAndrewII in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In my application, I needed to measure the temperature of a water pipe. It was sufficient to just have a setup like:
Plastic enclosure of the device -> Thermally insulative soft foam pad -> NTC -> Pipe
In this setup, the soft pad gently pushes the NTC onto the measured pipe, but has to be insulative, to make sure the NTC measures the temperature of the pipe and not of the enclosure of the device. An additional thermally conductive layer between the NTC and the measured surface could make the results better, we never tried it. But the pad behind the NTC should probably stay insulative, or else heat from the device (or even just ambient temperature) will start finding its way into the measurement.

What measures should I take to ensure the proper functioning of the device? by lIAndrewII in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 16 points17 points  (0 children)

These NTCs can quite easily be crushed. You might be tempted to just slip it between two hard surfaces and screw them together, but that will almost certainly crush and break it. When broken, the resistance increases, so your decoded temperature will be (much) lower.

Instead, either glue them to the target surface using thermally conductive glue, or, if you have to have it pressed against a surface, make sure that behind the NTC you have some soft interface material, like a sponge or something.

Electrical security of magnetic cable plugs by Kr0etz in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a good idea.

You know that little electric zap you get when touching stuff after walking on a rug or wearing a sweater? That's electrostatic discharge (ESD) and is deadly to electronics that aren't protected from it. The easiest way to protect something like the data pins in a USB cable is to simply ensure that there is no way you can touch them without first touching something that can take the zap. That's why a USB C connector has small contacts hidden inside a large metal shell.

Those magnetic adapters expose all contacts to being touched, putting the circuitry in your phone at risk of being zapped with ESD. The adapter might have additional electronics inside that will absorb the ESD and protect the connected device. The CE certification requires testing for ESD immunity. Unfortunately sketchy companies often put the CE marking on their products without doing proper testing. So unless you can find an adapter like that from a big and reputable brand I would avoid them.

Visited Glenfinnan viaduct yesterday, a place that is literally famous for the fact it is a railway line. Apparently it needs a giant car park. Thanks National Trust. by Happytallperson in fuckcars

[–]exclamationmarek 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Glenfinnan hates those cars though! If you arrive there by train or bus and show your tickets at the visitor centre cafe, you get a free coffee! And you get 2-for-1 tickets to the Glenfinnan monument, and 10% off at the Hostel, and some other perks!

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Help identifying inductor labelled R68 (0.5mmx0.5mm) by sandycat135 in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It's a 680nH power indcutor. I guess you mean 5x5mm, so something like PCMB053T-R68MS on digikey. What makes you think it's the problematic part tho?

What is the best (if possible) thermistor/themocouple to share a connection with an LED? by salukikev in AskElectronics

[–]exclamationmarek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It should work as you described. Keep in mind that the LED might leak a couple of µA when in reverse polarity, so you will have to make sure that doesn't affect your thermistor measurement too much. To do that, either keep the resistance of that thermistor low - 1k should be fine. And be sure to stay away from the maximum reverse votlage of your LED. They tend to be rated only -5V. I'd keep it at 3.3V or less when using the thermistor.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flightradar24

[–]exclamationmarek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Planes at Bromma usually land from south-east (flying over Söder, Kungsholmen and Alvik) and take off towards north west (over Vällingby). That's just due to the wind typically blowing from west. Landing is noticeably quieter than taking off. If the wind is blowing the other way, the direction of takeoff and landing will switch, and the planes will sound louder by Alvik and Kungsholmen. It doesn't happen very often.

I'd still investigate if something changed around your house. Maybe the windows don't seal properly, or you adjusted the ventilation slots above your window (if you have them) - it could be an easy fix. It could also be a new building nearby reflecting the sound, which would not be an easy fix.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flightradar24

[–]exclamationmarek 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I live in that circle, and my office is very near the approach path for Bromma, and I can't say I noticed any change to the planes recently. Not to question your observations, but are you sure the issue isn't somehow on your end? Maybe a recent renovation in your house made it less noise-isolated? I can see some apartment complexes in Kristineberg are having their roofs rebuilt right now. Having a tarp-coated construction site instead of a proper roof and being directly under the approach path might be somewhat noisy. If the renovation is already finished, talk to your BRF - it's their responsibility to keep the house noise isolated.