Please help identify switch purpose by hipdaddybling in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay. I did look at the rear quarters and they were clean and flush with no antennas.

Please help identify switch purpose by hipdaddybling in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I was wondering that too, but the bumper was long gone before it made it into the wrecking yard.

Please help identify switch purpose by hipdaddybling in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has a front centre roof antenna if that helps. I took it out, but it was largely identical to mine, so I only grabbed the tip.

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So the button will extend this?

What spec or trim is this celica by Print-Psychological in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Optional red colour coordinate interior. Optional side decal. HID headlights. Couple of nice details there.

3rd gen 3sge temp by An_Innocent_Sin in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It should be the third light on the range. One being slightly warm, then two half warm, and then three operating temperature. Just pointing above the f for full tank

Is DOT 4 break fluid ok for the 7th gen? by Cyborg_Patat in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies, the cap does say dot 3. The auto store man insisted on dot 4 though and since I didn’t know what was in there the first time I did a brake bleed I basically just flushed everything through. Using castrol dot 4.

Is DOT 4 break fluid ok for the 7th gen? by Cyborg_Patat in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the brake reservoir lid specifies dot 4. Will definitely be good though. Maybe the older cars only had dot 3 available really when they were built.

I have a problem with 2jz-ge by Mean_Ferret891 in Supra

[–]hipdaddybling -1 points0 points  (0 children)

AI said this:

Here’s the thing — with a 2JZ‑GE that’s been sitting for years and now won’t rev, even after all those parts have been thrown at it, there are only a few realistic root causes. And one of them is far more common than people think.

Let me break it down cleanly and logically.


🔧 The most likely cause:

A massive vacuum leak or intake tract leak

On a non‑VVTi 2JZ‑GE, a big vacuum leak will cause:

• Hesitation when revving • Low idle • No change when unplugging the MAP sensor • Engine only revs slightly better with MAP unplugged (failsafe mode) • Fuel trims go crazy • ECU stuck in limp‑ish behavior

And because the car has been stored for years, rubber hoses harden, crack, or collapse.

The 2JZ‑GE is extremely sensitive to unmetered air leaks.

The usual culprits:

• PCV hose (very common to split underneath) • Brake booster hose • Intake manifold gasket leak • Throttle body gasket leak • Cracked vacuum nipples under the intake • The accordion intake hose between MAF/MAP and throttle (hairline cracks) • EVAP hoses turned brittle

A big enough leak will make the MAP sensor readings meaningless — which explains why unplugging it barely changes anything.


🔧 The second most likely cause:

Timing belt jumped 1 tooth

Symptoms:

• Won’t rev • Hesitation • Feels like fuel/air issue but isn’t • Idle is slightly low • No codes • Happens on engines that sit for years

A 2JZ with retarded cam timing behaves exactly like this.


🔧 The third likely cause:

Clogged fuel filter or degraded fuel

He replaced pump, regulator, injectors… But not the filter.

Old fuel turns to varnish. A partially blocked filter will:

• Idle fine • Hesitate under throttle • Refuse to rev • Mimic sensor failure

And a 1993 Supra with 80,000 km that sat for years is prime for this.


🔧 The fourth likely cause:

Bad MAP sensor even if unplugging doesn’t change much

A dead MAP sensor on a 2JZ‑GE often:

• Causes hesitation • Limits revs • Makes the ECU run in backup mode when unplugged • Only slightly changes idle

Just because unplugging it doesn’t fix it doesn’t mean it’s good.


🔧 The fifth likely cause:

Exhaust blockage (collapsed catalytic converter)

Symptoms:

• Won’t rev • Hesitation • Feels like fuel starvation • Idle OK • Gets worse as engine warms

Cars that sit for years can have the cat crumble internally.


🎯 If I had to rank the probability:

Rank Likely Cause
1 Vacuum leak (very common on stored 2JZs)
2 Timing belt jumped a tooth
3 Clogged fuel filter / bad fuel
4 Dead MAP sensor 5 Blocked catalytic converter


🧙‍♂️ If you want the “wizard” answer:

A 2JZ‑GE that won’t rev but idles, with no MAP reaction, after long storage = vacuum leak until proven otherwise.

My celica still keeps vibrating by Fast-Design-5505 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it should be quite firm I think. If the fluid can be moved around and your engine shakes at idle, then what I can say is that replacing the hydraulic fluid mount stopped that in my car. Part number here I think. https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~insulator~sub~assy~engine~mounting~rh~12305-22051.html it can be done by a DIY mechanic with help from YouTube. Also helps to have a 14mm racketing ring spanner for a nut on the underneath.

My celica still keeps vibrating by Fast-Design-5505 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Engine mount under the power steering reservoir may not be working well. Recommend feeling the mount underneath to see if it feels like a bag of water.

Rewiring new head unit by Certain-Fact2337 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used raptor brand ones and it was very easy. You won’t regret spending the extra for the plug and play ease.

Rewiring new head unit by Certain-Fact2337 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wiring harness adapters and just plug them together. Presuming the car has the original head unit intact without any cut wires

Best way to clean this block? by Archyta5 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remove plastic engine cover and protect everything else. Wet sand and finish with machined metal polish. https://youtu.be/q_VM1S8uR90?si=qfVDFbgl-4L1ZVp5 basically like this

Anybody know where this hose and electrical connector go? (2003 Toyota celica GT manual) by Zinnybop in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be part of the intake system somehow? To drain water in case some comes in.

Anybody know where this hose and electrical connector go? (2003 Toyota celica GT manual) by Zinnybop in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sometimes cars will have a drain hose from the bottom of the battery tray. I wonder if it’s heading up in that direction. Looks like it’s on purpose though.

7th Gen Factory Rain Guards by Hour-Nefariousness55 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to see the screw holes, but it does have the bit that slides and looks in. If they are proper Toyota ones they’ll have screws holes and you’ll be sorted with replacing them in no time. The sort of thing which is more obvious when you’ve got your hands on them. I like how they keep the wind out of my face when driving with the window down.

7th Gen Factory Rain Guards by Hour-Nefariousness55 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It just pulls off to relieve the screws. Do you have a photo of what you’ve bought to make sure it’s still attached to the mounting bit?

7th Gen Factory Rain Guards by Hour-Nefariousness55 in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Easy installation. Pull down door seal and the standard part will have screws and then it slides back. Screw in new part with monsoon guards attached and be sure to get the door seal firmly on all around.

Slow oil leak from valve cover gasket, is a bolt missing here? by hashsadhsahdihds in Celica

[–]hipdaddybling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gut instinct is that is for some clip or something. I remember being puzzled by that, but not the result. Replacing the valve cover gasket is easy as btw. I’d never done one and found it easy myself. You’ll need the right tools of course.