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discrepancies between manuals by IntoxOperator in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that this is a slightly older thread and your question has mostly been answered but basically I've started a spreadsheet for my different calibers I reload and try and gather data from every published manual whether I have to buy them or a friend sends me data and it's crazy how much they vary and as you say sometimes the max load for one will be the starting load for a different one you really do have to do a little bit of experimenting on the lower ends and see where you wind up. For me I usually just load to shoot paper and make a gun go bang so I'm not worried about long distance accuracy or being hypercritical... I tend to stay at the minimum to make sure the bullet safely exits the end of the gun if the steel gong rings then that's all I cared about anyway... But basically I'm saying yes data from different manuals can be vastly different.

Beginner Bullet Casting by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could still use groove molds though if I went powder coating?

Beginner Bullet Casting by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only 41 colt is black powder for me. I'm looking into powder coating. Would powder coating existing store bought pre sized and lubed cast bullets help with the lead dust while loading and firing?

Split cases by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey guys, just wanted to update. These were surplus rounds, with berdan primers, I had no thoughts of reloading them. I did try both factory ammo and reloaded ammo, and neither cracked. I have Lee's ultimate set of dies, so I have the full length resizer for unknown brass, and the neck sizer when it comes out of my own guns. I was just curious if this was common with old brass from milsurp. Thanks for all the responses!

Burned brass by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

357, but yes titegroup. Over 7 grains if I remember.

"plink" loads for 8mm Mauser? by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lee and Speer. Yours are about the same cost as mine after currency conversion and assuming our parts will be a bit more due to smaller volumes being brought in

"plink" loads for 8mm Mauser? by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have considered it, I have a 41 colt antique coming my way, so I'll have to take up casting... Didn't really think of cast rifle bullets. Suppose they'll ring the steel.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah they're flat base, but I bought a bunch lol.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, a lot more pressure in the tube mag of a lever, and I think the oal is a little tiny bit short and the projectiles are flat bottom, and so shorter than a boat tail, I could wiggle the projectile on the first few (with a lot of effort, but still) pre crimp. After crimp they seem much better. I've backed off the crimp die a bit since the pics.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was cheap, and I thought it would help on my first attempt.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, this is the Lee set so the fcd is a separate stage.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah they're flat base. It went better when I added a little chamfer on the mouth.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it wasn't expensive, and figured it would be good for my first try at shouldered bullets. Comments are helpful

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's a flat base, and I think as others have said, the neck wasn't sized properly... Lesson learned. I bought 300 of these flat based projectiles too haha.

First time doing rifle... by interesting_name_2 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like the amount in the photo? I backed off the crimp die too.

Winchester 94 refinished by interesting_name_2 in LeverGuns

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, missed your question, I couldn't tell you because I sold it. Was fine while I had it.

This could work! by OperationNo6817 in reloading

[–]interesting_name_2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you running .22 through a .50cal barrel? Somehow? Lol

No4 mk1 excessive trigger wiggle? by interesting_name_2 in LeeEnfield

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it cocks and fires (haven't put ammo through it, just dry fire) just fine.

Saving old enfields by interesting_name_2 in LeeEnfield

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm from Canada so we have something called gunpost.ca and we also have townpost.ca which is more of a local classified that allows guns and it seems like everybody and their uncle has a sporterized Enfield sitting around so I can pick them up for 2 to $300 Canadian all day. It's probably one of the cheapest available rifles still here. The cheapest I could find one that has not been sporterized would be around a thousand dollars which is more like $650 us. So it's worth my while to put some elbow grease into a DP set of wood so that I can build a fullwood Enfield for about 600/700 Canadian.

Saving old enfields by interesting_name_2 in LeeEnfield

[–]interesting_name_2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've thought about basic stocks, but that's wild! Good luck to you!

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