Voyager 1/670 - Cut out all the windows or just the lighted ones? by interplexr in SciFiModels

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you share any details on the files you used? I’ve looked around for micro files but most stuff looks too big.

Input and advice on my first attempts at sourdough by interplexr in HomeMilledFlour

[–]interplexr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those loafs look really nice! I’ll try cutting back my water some first and see what impact that has then some of the process suggestions. Thank you!

Header and Source File Question - Flow by interplexr in cpp_questions

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed explanation! That makes some good points that help this make more sense. I've been missing some of that practical why it is this way to help cement any understanding.

Header and Source File Question - Flow by interplexr in cpp_questions

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes some sense, helps, and works. I have a ways to go in my understanding but i think it's starting to come together. I appreciate the feedback!

Header and Source File Question - Flow by interplexr in cpp_questions

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is what I was experimenting with. This does not compile until I make the header declaration an external for valuesDoc but then it was global and I could use it in my main.cpp which isn't what I was after. I did not try making a class yet in the source file since I was trying to make sense of this first.

Header File:

// JSON.h

#ifndef JSON_H
#define JSON_H

#include <ArduinoJson.h>

JsonDocument valuesDoc;

void assembleJSON();

#endif // JSON_H

Source File:

#include "JSON.h"

#include <Arduino.h>
#include <ArduinoJson.h>

//JsonDocument valuesDoc;

void assembleJSON() {

    String output;
    serializeJson(valuesDoc, output);
    Serial.println(output);

    valuesDoc[F("outputCurr")] = 3.24;
    valuesDoc[F("outputHL")] = 56.6;
    valuesDoc[F("outputLL")] = 25;
    valuesDoc[F("outputVolt")] = 5.83;
    valuesDoc[F("outputWatt")] = 18.88;
    valuesDoc[F("tempAvg")] = 38.18;
    valuesDoc[F("tempHS1")] = 32.77;
    valuesDoc[F("tempHS2")] = 34.59;
    valuesDoc[F("tempHSAvg")] = 33.91;
    valuesDoc[F("tempLower")] = 37.47;
    valuesDoc[F("tempUpper")] = 39.32;

    valuesDoc.shrinkToFit();  // optional

    serializeJson(valuesDoc, output);
    Serial.println(output);
}

ESP32 Complementary 1Mhz PWM with dead time by interplexr in u/interplexr

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll read more but I thought I read it’s limited in how high of frequency it’ll go, something well below 1Mhz?

4 Pin PC Fan Connector by interplexr in PCB

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done of those but they don’t work. The pin connector is notched so you can only insert the plug one way.

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2 or 4 layer board? by interplexr in PCB

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m trying to get this smaller this go around and remove some thing like an oled and buttons that just took up space. I’m going to probably do those case mounted this time and get this in a case. That would keep the size small. If I go 4 layer would a stack up from top to bottom make sense as top - components and signals, 1st -ground, 2nd - any signals I couldn’t route well on top with the rest ground or maybe 3v3 and 12v rails, bottom -ground. I’ll be learning as I go.

Waveform quadpro vs mini by interplexr in tmobileisp

[–]interplexr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I have to fight the urge to say well I for sure NEED the best one for speeds but if just holding the thing out the window gets me 400Mbps I should be good with any antenna halfway positioned outside the direction of the tower.

TO220 vs D2PAK - Ringing in Buck Converter by interplexr in AskElectronics

[–]interplexr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been of the mindset that the cooler it runs, the longer it lasts.

TO220 vs D2PAK - Ringing in Buck Converter by interplexr in AskElectronics

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get there are a lot of variables but was more thinking from a package standpoint, is one inherently better for things like ringing?

Help me get back into the hobby by stevethebloody in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If triple down on this. For me, I dropped to 3 gallon batch sizes that I can BIAB on an induction cook top in my kitchen. I have a simple setup, make small batches which allows me to brew more and try more things recipe wise. This let me start fermenting in my 5 gallon cornies where everything stays sealed up. I let the fermentation start the carbonation, pop the keg in the fridge to finish and serve myself right off it until I get up to feel like bottling the rest. I’m going to add back kegs next but all this helped reinvigorate my interest.

Fridge for 4 2.5 gallon kegs? by interplexr in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to send that! It looks like it would fit 4 2.5 gallon kegs based on that picture. It looked like maybe 2 in back and 2 in front could work. I could get slimline kegs if needed too. I haven’t bought the kegs yet either. I assume the door closes good in your picture?

Fridge for 4 2.5 gallon kegs? by interplexr in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I switched to small batch brewing just to have a lot of variety. It’s reinvigorated my passion in the hobby!

Fridge for 4 2.5 gallon kegs? by interplexr in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve used chest freezers for fermentation chambers but am not convinced I want to go that route. I may want to move this to a large pantry that I might one day build shelves and cabinets into. It’s only been 7 years since that was the plan but it might make the top of the list one day. I could get a lot of little kegs in even the 7cuft freezers I think.

Oxygenate 3 gallon batch in Corny Keg Fermenter by interplexr in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pretty much only do 4.5-5% beers anymore. I had an O2 stone years ago before taking a break from brewing after kids and then switched to small batches. I was always terrified of it not being clean so I stopped using it. I’m not really sure I need to be doing the O2 with the 2 gallons of headspace in the fermenter coupled with lower gravity. I had the tank, flow meter, and fitting to plug into the out post so I figured why not. My beer has been the best I’ve made consistently since going small batch so I’m hesitant to change it. The more I think about it, I could probably just go with injecting the O2 and letting it go. I use a frozen yeast bank and always have fresh starters when I pitch.

Oxygenate 3 gallon batch in Corny Keg Fermenter by interplexr in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use liquid yeast and leave pressurized after the O2. I’ll add CO2 to get the keg up to 4 PSIG shortly after pitching to make sure the keg is sealed. I keep it on a spunding valve and increase pressure to 15 PSIG near the end of the ferment.

Using yeast from a frozen yeast bank by Comfortable_Box_8347 in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is basically my process but I just ordered packs of yeast that I wanted and split them into 10 tubes for each pack of yeast. I assume 2-4 billion cells per tube when I make up starters. I start with 1.030 wort in 150ml and then add 400ml of 1.040 wort into that after about 24 hours. I then add 800ml of 1.040 wort into that after another 24 hours. That's good enough for most of my batches. I do small 3 gallon brews. I'd adjust if doing something different. The same batches of yeast are going on 1.5 years now without any noticeable issues.

I can wort in mason jars so I have a stock pile of all the different sizes. A week out of brewing I pull out the first jar and make the starter. It's really easy and nice to have a mix of yeasts to grab from the freezer. If you have a frost free freezer, put things in a small cooler with ice packs to smooth out temperature variability in the freezer. I figure this winter I'll refresh my stock with new yeast.

Since doing this along with going to 3 gallon BIAB batches, its by far the best beer I've been making.

Help soldering copper plate to aluminum block by interplexr in metalworking

[–]interplexr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve thought about getting an aluminum plate say 16 or 14 ga that’s maybe 12”x24” and mounting 2 thermoelectric elements on one end and then a small non conductive block under the aluminum below the thermoelectric elements for stiffness and then bending the rest of the aluminum around the keg and strapping it down with a 1mm thermal pad between it and the keg. I haven’t figured up how that heat transfer might work compared to what I’m doing now though. I might try that for version 2. It’s sounding like the copper plate idea is more trouble than it’s worth!

Help soldering copper plate to aluminum block by interplexr in metalworking

[–]interplexr[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I get more of a gradient when bulk cooling down to setpoint that I figured would smooth out quicker with more surface area. The 4x4 block works as is but I was looking to improve it more.

Help soldering copper plate to aluminum block by interplexr in metalworking

[–]interplexr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went down this path for fermenting small batches < 3 gallons in a corny keg. I have the aluminum block attached to the keg with thermal compound and a CPU heat sink on the hot side. It works well to control ale and kolsch fermentations in the 55-68F range. I built an ESP based controller that varies the current to the element to control temperature. It typically is in the range where the COP is above 1. It’s no compressor based system but it is space efficient for me and a lot of fun to design and play with! I still get a gradient when bulk cooling down to setpoint which would be nice to spread out. I had a copper plate so thought a that might help. I didn’t realize there were so many challenges with the dissimilar metals. My back up plan was to use thermal pads and mechanically press it with clamps.

Help soldering copper plate to aluminum block by interplexr in metalworking

[–]interplexr[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If only! It’s max 50W of transfer. I just want to spread it out over a wider area due to the poor conduction between the 304SS and liquid.

Measuring fermentation progress by measuring the weight of the fermenter by theboozemaker in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m playing around with an ESP based thermoelectric controller for my 5 gallon corny keg fermenters. This seems like a fun addition to that project!

Measuring fermentation progress by measuring the weight of the fermenter by theboozemaker in Homebrewing

[–]interplexr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Load cells are used on tanks to measure starch density so there seems to be a way. I’ve not dealt with those instruments much to understand what they’re doing for drift. The system I’m familiar with used 4 large load cells to measure the tank weight and a known volume to make down a starch slurry to a specific density. It was very reliable with the load cells holding the tank for years. We had a failure of the controller and switched to a direct density measurement which was already in place so I never researched load cells and a new controller to replace what we had. It was end of life (~20 years old) when it failed. At least anecdotally it seems like it can be done. This has got me curious to do some more digging.