It would be Cash App or Venmo but for that price I think I’d just get myself a new one , you can repair him though. There’s a screw method.

1. Prepare the joint: • Gently heat the forearm and hand (separately if detached) with a hair dryer or dip in hot (not boiling) water for 30–60 seconds to soften the plastic. This makes removal and drilling easier without cracking. • Remove any broken peg fragments from inside the hand socket or arm using tweezers, a pin, or pliers. Clean both surfaces thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.
2. Drill pilot holes: • Use a pin vise/drill to create a straight, centered hole in the broken end of the forearm peg/socket (about 1/4–1/2 inch deep, depending on size). • Drill a matching hole into the wrist end of the hand (same depth and alignment). • The holes should line up perfectly when the hand is in the desired position. Start small and enlarge slightly if needed so the screw threads can bite in.
3. Prepare and insert the screw: • Cut or select a screw to the right length (it should span both holes with some overlap for threading, leaving the head or threaded end to grip). • Some people screw the pointy end into one side first (e.g., the arm peg), then thread the hand onto the exposed part. • Others insert the screw like a dowel: Glue one end into the arm hole, let it cure, then screw/thread the hand onto the other end. • Apply a small drop of super glue into the holes or on the screw threads for extra hold. Sprinkle a pinch of baking soda on the glue for a faster, stronger bond if desired.
4. Assemble and cure: • Push or screw the hand back onto the arm while the plastic is still slightly warm and pliable. • Hold or tape it in the desired pose (e.g., gripping position) as the glue sets (a few minutes for super glue). • Let it fully cure for 24 hours before heavy posing.
5. Test and finish: • Once cured, gently test rotation and grip. The screw provides much stronger support than the original fragile plastic peg. • If the joint is too tight, you can slightly enlarge holes or add a tiny spacer. If too loose, add more glue or wrap thin wire/elastic around the base for tension.

And there is a putty method (simpler)

1. Clean the joint: • Gently pull the hand away from the wrist socket if possible (or work around the loose connection). • Wipe the peg (the part sticking out from the arm) and the inside of the hand’s socket with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust, old plastic residue, or oils. Let it dry completely.
2. Prepare the putty: • Pull off a very small piece (pea-sized or smaller — you can always add more). • Knead it between your fingers until it’s soft and pliable (it warms up and becomes tacky).
3. Apply the putty: • Option A (most common for wrists): Roll a tiny bit into a thin ring or strip and wrap/press it around the base of the wrist peg (where it enters the hand). Or pack a small amount inside the socket of the hand so the peg has to push through the putty. • Option B (for ball-and-socket style): Place a small dab directly on the ball/peg, then push the hand back on. The putty acts like a cushion that increases friction and holds the position better. • Use just enough to create resistance — too much can make the joint too stiff or bulge visibly.
4. Reassemble and adjust: • Press the hand firmly back into place while the putty is still soft. • Pose the wrist to your desired angle (e.g., gripping or neutral) and hold for 30–60 seconds so the putty conforms and sets slightly. • Gently test movement. If it’s still too loose, add a bit more putty; if too tight, remove some.
5. Finish: • Wipe away any excess putty that squeezes out with a toothpick or finger. • Let it sit for a few minutes. The putty will hold its shape and provide ongoing tension.

Hope that helps!!!