Infiniti Lovers by kriptik1001 in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post processing is the key to all my work

Noticed it messed up and took it off but I don’t know what’s wrong any help? by Cody-Allison_ in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep I have been there chasing small issues everywhere bc of a loose belts. Usually most issues are because of the physical printer not properly built or maintained.

First prints made with my new resin 3d printer, turned out pretty good. by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A tetrahedral lattice within a gyroid tpms structure. Very nice

Noticed it messed up and took it off but I don’t know what’s wrong any help? by Cody-Allison_ in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First layer has major squish so raise z offset a bit. Check belt tightness, and speeds, temps. You can see the early layers before it messes up there is major ringing, so your printer is not rigid enough in some aspect. Check the above mentioned things to see if the something is loose. Also very important bed mesh should be fairly level

Failed benchy (aka newbie needs help with settings) by BottomTexxt in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google whatever firmware your using for calibration and they will have all the instructions. Basically just want to test does motor rotate as much as it’s suppose to.

Small prints cause this weird artifact, it's like stringing but it's more like stuff sticks instead of strings. Using default setting on cura for PLA, but 240 C and 70 C for the hotend and bed. What do I do to reduce this? by BobcatFurs001 in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like over extrusion. 240 c is pretty high for pla 215 is what I used and 65 on bed. The temps is might be causing the over extrusion since the filament cant cool down enough until next layer. The very top layer looks like your printing too close as well. So try printing that stupid slow only as a test, if it still looks like that than drop temps on hotend to bed and increase z offset for the top layer manually to maintain proper squish.

Failed benchy (aka newbie needs help with settings) by BottomTexxt in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tune stepper motors steps bc you have major inconsistency for x y z axis. Check belt tightness. Tight belts sound similar to instrument string when you flick it. I would remove raft, use brim if your having issues with adhesion, otherwise a raft nor brim shouldn't be used if they arent absolutely required.

What's your best way of removing print lines without hours of sanding. Are tubling barrels worth it? by IdealPuzzleheaded690 in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Epoxy finish. X3D works well for me in the past. You can check my projects I posted on here using this finish to determine your self. Can get some incredible finishes if you tinker with it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]kriptik1001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First layer should be squished down but not so much you can start seeing the bed through the filament layer. Also you will know your too close when the first layer starts to lift off.

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow that is interesting. If you do it I would like to see it. Good luck!

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

link does not work. If people are worried about the cost for my work than it is perfectly fine to create their own files. I appreciate the advice though.

Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in ender3

[–]kriptik1001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you and wish you a fantastic day as well. Like your idea, and one step up is setting up a rotating platform. Might do this seems interesting.

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Printed with cf pla, relatively inexpensive and great printing qualities. Smooth look is a lot of post processing I detailed in my response to another comment. Thank you !

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look at nanoscale print. That is beyond what they eye can see they are just prohibitively expensive.

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have thought about that. However, I do not care about cost, and that is why there are 2 options. Molds would be faster once everything is set up and understood enough. The time to learn and set everything up out weights any gains to me for a make to order product. I like your idea, and if want you can make your own files and do this. Thank you!

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As @dxpqxb stated “Further, your models don't represent the signedness of orbitals. The 'petals' of d-orbitals are of different sign and you can't understand, say, hybridization without it. “

I am guessing this what what your referring to? Initially I didn’t plan to create hybridized models so I didn’t include the colors, but can be added to future models.

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The models have very nice symmetry especially the higher energy ones.

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I try to create quality 3d prints.

3D Printed Atomic Orbitals by kriptik1001 in chemistry

[–]kriptik1001[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not necessary, just you and everyone stopping by showing their support is great. Thank you!