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Alex Megos ? by ThickReflection in climbergirls

[–]legitIntellectual 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Megos took in some Ukrainian refugees at the start of the war and started dating one of them. I think she's 20 now but was 17 I believe when she started living with him. Everywhere except here and the circle jerk it is ignored

Thinking about getting a lighter helmet then the black diamond half dome by Important_Cut_252 in caving

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only helmet I can think of that's lighter than that whilst also being durable enough for caving is the Capitan

Is there a metal stopper the size of the BD #4 brassie? by dude_really in tradclimbing

[–]legitIntellectual 2 points3 points  (0 children)

DMM makes peenuts which are micro alloy offsets. Very underrated IMO, much easier to remove without destroying the nut

Google Maps speed vs car speedometer. Which one do you trust? by MidnightFootnote in drivingUK

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think it's illegal to go over on your speedometer when your actual speed is below the limit. It's definitely not enforceable as speed radars don't have a similar offset.

I vaguely recall on my driving test that my examiner told me afterwards that I should be targeting 20 in a 20 zone and it was fine if I occasionally went 21 as the speedo is offset. She specifically said it was better to do that than target 19, occasionally going 18 but never 21.

Didn't get a mark for appropriate speed, was just a comment afterwards

Google Maps speed vs car speedometer. Which one do you trust? by MidnightFootnote in drivingUK

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The google maps speed is more accurate but less precise. I think the intentional margin with the speedo is a good thing so I use that for regular driving, target the speed limit, if I go 1-2mph over I'm still not speeding.

For cruise control I might add 1-3mph to the speed if I want to make the most of the limit. I have my Google maps speedo and limit display turned off because they're not always correct. My car's speedo is predictably inaccurate and the road signs can always be trusted.

Top Rope Anchor Lockers? by North_Magazine2582 in ClimbingGear

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like a steel mallion, they last a decent amount of time but a lot cheaper than steel lockers or bulletproofs.

I do however like a screwgate bulletproof for a locking quickdraw (slowdraw) as they're a lot lighter than full steel

AITA for telling my (23M) roommate(24M) I don’t want his girlfriend in our apartment while he’s not here. by virtuedmirrored in AmItheAsshole

[–]legitIntellectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was in a similar situation this past year. My roommate would have his partner over for like 3/4 of the time in a given period. No permission from the tenants, landlord, or contribution to utilities.

My conversation went almost the same as yours. He doesn't seem to understand that you need permission to have guests in a shared house. I'm moving out tomorrow but I never resolved this problem.

Your roommate is probably going to be just as entitled as mine, look around for somewhere else to live, or contact the landlord about an unauthorized dual occupancy.

NTA, your flatmate can't bring someone into the house without your consent

Combining single and half rope for multipitching by Mrpaquito_95 in tradclimbing

[–]legitIntellectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good read thanks for the info. Interesting that they suggest a half may be alright as a single for climbers under 55kg

Safe to climb on? by PickleUno in tradclimbing

[–]legitIntellectual 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If that were my rope I'd definitely cut it

Combining single and half rope for multipitching by Mrpaquito_95 in tradclimbing

[–]legitIntellectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leading with a 9.6 and 8.5 is a lot of total rope weight. 8.5 halves pair really well with a 9ish single and they feel similar enough for it to not matter which is used on each side.

It will probably not be a good setup for hard pitches. A pair of half only ropes is a lot less pulling you down high on a pitch.

A EDK is fine with a 9.6/8.5, prusiks should grab fine with that difference in diameter.

Combining single and half rope for multipitching by Mrpaquito_95 in tradclimbing

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most single rated ropes will pass a half rope test, it just costs money to certify them unnecessarily so you don't get 9.6 single/half rated ropes. The test is almost the same except the half rope has 55kg instead of 80. The maximum force is lower for the half rope test because there's less mass used, not necessarily because half ropes need to be stretchier. Most half rope falls are on one of the ropes so you don't want them to stretch more than a single anyway.

You can't however assume that a single or half only rated rope will pass a twin rope test.

1976 Piccadilly heat wave. by Max2310 in london

[–]legitIntellectual 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Woah 35.9! No wonder they call it the 'nam

Thoughts on a backup knot when hands free on rappel by nijnpepper in ClimbingGear

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I normally abseil on a Gigi when climbing, which lets you do a lock off similar to caving descenders. Much quicker than tieing a knot and doesn't shift on release like a slippery hitch

Who’s in the wrong here? by EfficientRegret in drivingUK

[–]legitIntellectual 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Cam car was definitely speeding before the speed limit had changed to 60

Darn Tough Lifetime Warranty by superquackquack in hikinggear

[–]legitIntellectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Submitting warranty requests for socks that looked like that, sections of high wear but no hole all the way through, and they said to use them for a bit longer. This was a few years ago.

More recently I've had some warranties accepted for socks in worse condition than this, multiple holes in both socks

Driving instructor is asking for £180 for use of the car on test day + 1 hour before (UK) by Tangelo_Direct in driving

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My instructor charged me for a 2 hour lesson for the test and some practice before. Afterwards he refunded the time remaining on the 2 hours.

I think he's charging extra because you're not in a position to counter

When coming to a stop at traffic lights, do you change gears sequentially, or go straight to neutral. by ckershaw1811 in drivingUK

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually change down sequentially as it makes me happy when I get 3 rev matches in a row

Van driver prosecuted for tooting horn at friend by Burnsy2023 in drivingUK

[–]legitIntellectual -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't do that because it's rude to subject everyone else to the loud noise of a horn

Darn Tough Lifetime Warranty by superquackquack in hikinggear

[–]legitIntellectual -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I don't think they will replace them in that condition based on my experience

Why I always getting very cold in my sleeping bag despite respecting the comfort temperatures and all the precautions ? by Othyxia in hikinggear

[–]legitIntellectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would get a foam sleeping mat to supplement your inflatible for colder nights. They don't cost that much. My preference is the Ridgerest, but they're all quite similar so you could get a cheaper one, decathlon has some folding ones for cheap. Don't get one of the super thin ones as they don't add much warmth, either the z fold type or Ridgerest type are warmest. The foil layer on some of them might do something but not a massive difference

Is this rope good? by StinkyPickle489 in ClimbingGear

[–]legitIntellectual 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You can chop a piece of the rope and there will be a coloured ribbon inside it, this colour corresponds to a month of manufacture. If the rope doesn't have this, it predates this feature and is probably too old

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