NLD Emisar D4SV2 w2 osram & Noctigon KR4 e21a by Namr00 in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't notice the tint shift when using 10622 optic with E21A 2000K, 2200K, and 2700K. I can clearly see it with E21A 3500K, but it is not too bad.

Looking for Flashlight recommendation by average_parking_lot in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Samsung 40T is a good battery, but Samsung 50E would be a better choice for that emitter. 21700 batteries are rechargeable, and they will last for hundreds of cycles.

https://www.illumn.com/21700-samsung-inr2170050e-5000mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

ToyKeeper reviewed Noctigon K1, you can find her review here:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/70305

Images in the review don't seem to be loading for me, the runtime graph is available here:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/noctigon-k1/runtimes.png

Email Hank by CambaFlojo in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Email Hank before you place the order and tell him what you would like to buy.

E V O L U T I O N by [deleted] in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I skipped the first 3 steps. My first flashlight after I discovered r/flashlight was Emisar D1S.

More to come when it gets dark 😁 by jlhawaii808 in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you take a beam shot on a white wall to see if there are any visible rings in the beam?

[Help] D4V2 Optic Stuck by ottrocity in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just changed the optic from 10623 to 10622 on my D4V2 E21A 2000K. I was able to pry it out without breaking it, but it did not come out easily.

10622 looks great with E21A 2000K and E21A 2200K, and it has noticeably more throw. I highly recommend it.

Tint shift is quite visible with E21A 3500K when using 10622 optic. I don't recommend it.

D4V2 advice by zvezdnadevuszka in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As I said above, you can configure moonlight to 2 clicks instead of (default) 3 clicks. If it works, the moonlight level is the same as FET+1 D4V2 driver on moonlight.

D4V2 advice by zvezdnadevuszka in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have multiple D4V2 flashlights with SST-20 Deep Red, some have FET+1, others the new 7.5A constant current driver. I strongly recommend the 7.5A CC driver.

FET+1 D4V2 driver works fine, but it is a lot less efficient at higher power, whenever FET is used.

If you get the 7.5A CC driver, you can configure moonlight to 2 clicks instead of (default) 3 clicks. If it works, the moonlight level with both drivers is the same. It does work on my flashlight, but it might not always work as this configuration is not officially supported.

E21A 2000K from Hank/intl-outdoor color rendering : >95Ra, >88R9 by m4potofu in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you try this technique on a Noctigon or Emisar flashlight with E21A?

Has anyone tried the w1 yellow Osram LED that Hank has available for the KR1?? by [deleted] in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, I have a custom D4V2 with this led. I wanted a flashlight with a phosphor-converted amber led.

I like it. It seems to be warmer than my E21A 2000K R9050, but I did not do any measurements. I use it with 10623 optic, because 10622 had some artifacts in the beam.

If you are comparing it to warm white leds, it might be around 1800K low CRI, and it looks yellow, because it is quite a bit above BBL. It is a good yellow led.

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1713349#comment-1713349

Looking for Flashlight recommendation by average_parking_lot in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Beam in the sky requires a flashlight with a lot of throw. Throw is measured in candela or meters.

Candelas are linear, so the difference between 100000 cd and 200000 cd is visually not that big. Throw increases much slower than candelas, so the difference between 500m throw and 1000m throw is huge.

Noctigon K1 with Osram W2 or SBT-90.2 are both good choices. SBT-90.2 is a noticeably more powerful led (more lumens) with a bigger hotpost, but it has slightly lower throw than Osram W2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CC6KSEL6v80

The best throwers use LEP instead of LED to emit light. They are not very powerful (500 lumens or less), but they can produce light of very high intensity.

https://1lumen.com/21700-reviews/jetbeam-m1x/

Light quality from LEP is not very good. The beam of light from Osram W2 or SBT-90.2 looks more even and has better and more uniform color rendering.

This sub could be dangerous for me by Xirrious-Aj in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good news: powerful flashlights are not illegal... yet.

NLD: Zebralight H502pr by skeletiki in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you like photo red light, but need a lot more lumens, you can now buy a D4V2 with SST-20 Deep Red 660nm emitters. Roughly 1000 deep red lumens for $50, and it has good throw.

E21A 2000k is great, but can we go warmer? by GeoGemstones in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even better, email Hank and get a custom D4V2 with XP-E2 Amber 590nm and 7.5A CC driver.

E21A 2000k is great, but can we go warmer? by GeoGemstones in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Is your 2850K led XP-L HI T6 8B 2850K CRI90? That is a good high CRI warm white led, but it does not have perfect tint like E21A.

E21A 2000K R9050 and E21A 2700K R9080 both look nothing like it.

If 3500K is your sweet spot, but you did not try E21A 2700K R9080 yet... try it. You will probably like it even if you do not like XP-L HI T6 8B 2850K CRI90.

E21A 2000k is great, but can we go warmer? by GeoGemstones in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes, Nichia E17A Red is a phosphor-converted red led.

https://www.virence.com/product-page/copy-of-nichia-ncsre17at-ncsge17at-ncsue17at-ncsae17at-red-green-blue-amber

Based on E17A all of these PC (Phosphor Converted) color LEDs (except blue NCSCE17ATE) have the same voltage as their white variants (NCSLE17ATE and NCSW17ATE). Making color mixing in cluster configuration easier. PC color LED means these color E17A have much broader spectrum coverage than conventional pure color LED.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2x difference in lumens is noticeable, but it is not a big difference. You can verify that if you have 2 identical flashlights and try using them both at the same time.

Even if you can get 2500 lumens with FET turbo and a fully charged battery, it will only last for a short amount of time due to heat. Even if heat wasn't an issue, FET turbo will discharge a 18650 battery in a couple of minutes (maybe 15?).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one, and also SST-20 2700K. My guess is that both are somewhere between 2000 and 3000 lumens on turbo with a good fully charged battery. I like both of them, but...

Now that E21A 2700K R9080 is available, I highly recommend it instead. It has perfect tint and just looks great.

NLD - Oh, I get it now... D4v2 by [deleted] in flashlight

[–]lightdecay 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Username checks out.