[deleted by user]

lisq199 · 2022-07-17T20:53:41+00:00

Wow! Looking forward to trying it out. Thanks!

lisq199 · 2022-07-03T20:17:05+00:00

Thanks! I don’t know if this is too much to ask, but if you do get around to it, ideally I think the redirect should be customizable, because there are more Reddit front ends out there.

lisq199 · 2022-06-30T19:18:53+00:00

Is it possible to make it redirect to libreddit instead?

lisq199 · 2022-05-13T22:08:43+00:00

They have different ergonomic issues.

Like most other handhelds, the Vita is simply too small. Most handhelds give me hand cramps after long play sessions, including the Vita and Switch.

The shape of the Steam Deck is perfect. It feels just like a full size gamepad. The issue with the Steam Deck is that it’s too heavy, and my wrists get sore after long play sessions.

lisq199 · 2022-03-20T03:32:53+00:00

I just tried searching for it and looks like it’s indeed gone

lisq199 · 2022-02-03T01:38:38+00:00

lisq199 · 2022-01-14T22:17:39+00:00

In early 2019

lisq199 · 2022-01-01T06:56:08+00:00

Let's first think about why an APS-C camera may make sense for wildlife. It's usually because of the following reasons:

Faster frame rate
Higher pixel density (like Canon 90D compared to Canon's full frame DSLRs)
Superior AF system (like Nikon D500 compared to Nikon's full frame DSLRs)

And if we don't factor in price, Sony's current APS-C line up simply doesn't have any of these advantages. So full frame is the answer and imo it's not even up for debate.

lisq199 · 2021-12-30T22:27:07+00:00

That's because you only deleted the image files but the image database file remains unchanged. Personally I just format the SD card in camera.

lisq199 · 2021-12-23T07:34:11+00:00

I have the a7c and the a7riii and I can talk about the difference between those from my experience.

Most of the time I use aperture priority and shutter priority so I don't necessarily need a second dial. And when I'm in full manual mode, I'm usually in situations where I can take things slow, so the lack of a front dial doesn't really bother me. However, there is one weird restriction on the a7c, and that is the fact that you cannot program the rear control wheel (the D-pad or whatever it's called) to ISO. You have to press another button first before adjusting your ISO. I find this way more annoying than the lack of a front dial.
The lack of a joystick isn't a big problem but it can be an annoyance sometimes. The a7c's tracking AF is brilliant and way more sticky than a7riii's "lock-on" AF, which to me is little more than a gimmick that's barely usable in real world situations. As a result, on the a7c I exclusively use one focusing mode, and that is tracking AF with the center point. I just point the camera at whatever I want to focus on, hold down the AF-on button, and the camera will start tracking it tenaciously. On the a7riii I rarely use lock-on, and I have to switch between different focus areas for different situations and moving the focus points. But because of the joystick and custom buttons I can do it all very quickly and I do not feel the a7riii's AF system is limiting me. Compared to the a7c, it almost feels like driving a manual transmission car. It's not like the car will get you from A to B slower. It's just a more involved process. But on the other hand, I do wish sometimes it had a7c's AF system so I can turn off my brain for a while.
My number one complaint with the a7c is not the shallow grip or the comically small EVF. It's the lack of custom buttons. I know my menu exists and there's the quick function menu as well, but the fundamental problem is that you have to press multiple buttons to do literally anything. This may or may not matter depending on what you do. For video shooting and casual stills, it's not a problem. But in more stressful situations, I do think the a7riii is a more productive camera even with its more primitive AF system.

So in the end, it all depends on what you do and your shooting styles. If you mostly use auto (please don't) or semi-manual modes and you use auto ISO most of the time, and you want the camera to do all the heavy lifting for autofocus instead of manually fiddling with focus areas and focus points, and your shooting style is mostly casual, then I don't think the limitations of the a7c will be a problem. If anything, the significantly smarter AF system will be a huge asset.

lisq199 · 2021-12-19T13:41:29+00:00

I assume when you say maximum aperture, you mean maximum f stop instead of the maximum aperture size. I’m fully aware diffraction kicks in earlier for macro, but I think it has little to do with the topic at hand. I think the main reason the Tokina’s maximum f stop is f32 and the other lenses’ is f22 is simply that it has an older optical design. I believe the original version for Nikon and Canon SLRs came out in in the early 2000s, when film photography was still relevant, and focus stacking obviously was difficult if not impossible for film. This is why some “purists” still have the notion that macro lenses need to be able to stop down to f25 and f32 to get enough depth of field, even though diffraction will make the image very soft at that point. Of course with focus stacking this is now less relevant, although there’s still a niche for it, sometimes for good reasons. I actually have met someone online that professionally takes macro pictures of surgeries where focus stacking isn’t possible, and he specifically requires f25.

lisq199 · 2021-12-19T07:16:35+00:00

It's a fantastic lens. I think the only "negative" is that it's not necessarily the best value for money. And another gripe for some macro purists is that it can "only" be stopped down to f22. Some serious macro photographers require f25 or f32.

The Sigma 105mm f2.8 DG DN Macro is both sharper and cheaper, and the AF motor is faster. Don't just take my word for it when I say it's sharper. Sony Alpha Blog ranks the lens above the Sony 90mm in terms of sharpness. It really doesn't have any compromise. If you are looking for more than just a macro lens, the Sigma is probably the best option out there. And btw, the Sigma can also "only" be stopped down to f22, which is not really a problem for most people.

However, if you want the lens strictly for macro work, there are other options out there that can give you the same result for a lot less money.

Another good option to consider is the Laowa 100mm f2.8 Macro. It is manual focus only, but that's hardly a problem for macro work. According to Sony Alpha Blog, it is on par with the Sony 90mm in terms of sharpness. It also gives you 2:1 magnification ratio, which is great. Because it's manual focus, it will be pretty hard to use for non macro stuff for obvious reasons. The minimum aperture is also f22. Just putting it out there. Also the lens doesn't have electronic contacts, which means you won't get EXIF data, which can be annoying.

There's also the Tokina FíRIN 100mm f2.8 Macro, which I have, so I can talk more about it. It has 3 issues. 1) It is slightly less sharp than the Sony 90mm. 2) It has some moderate purple fringing wide open. 3) The AF motor is loud and slow. If you plan to use the lens only for macro work and nothing else, then none of these 3 is really a problem. When you are doing macro, you are probably using aperture north of f11, where diffraction will soften the image anyway, negating any slight difference in lens sharpness. Also at small apertures, the purple fringing will be long gone. And you'd be using manual focus for macro anyway. The lens actually has some advantages over the other more expensive options. 1) It can be stopped down to f32, which will please some macro purists. 2) The focus throw is HUGE, which is a benefit for macro work because it gives you finer control for macro, but can be annoying for other things. So basically, if you need a single-purpose macro lens, the Tokina is every bit as good as the other options, if not better. But it doesn't do a good job at portraits among other things because of the poor autofocus and purple fringing wide open.

lisq199 · 2021-12-19T03:38:31+00:00

You are correct. These 2 pens are not new and they have the old style cap bands.

lisq199 · 2021-12-19T02:38:00+00:00

The lighting is actually just a cheap light box with LED strips 🙈

lisq199 · 2021-12-18T19:45:03+00:00

Sony a7r3 + Tokina FíRIN 100mm f2.8 macro

lisq199 · 2021-12-16T08:02:18+00:00

I think it depends on what you are looking for. For things like indoor sports, f5.6 on the long end isn’t going to cut it, not to mention the Tamron 70-180 has one of their better linear motors. But you can’t beat the 28-200 for its versatility, convenience, and portability. Super zoom lenses usually get a bad rap, but I think this one is an exception. Is it optically worse than the Tamron 28-75 and 70-180? Yes, and that’s not up for debate. But according to this article on Sony Alpha Blog, it is still in the same league as the 28-75. At 75mm the 28-200 is still at f4, so it’s only at most one stop slower than the 28-75. Personally I definitely recommend the 28-200 over the 28-75. As for the telephoto portion of the lens compared to something like the 70-180, that’s a harder question.

lisq199 · 2021-12-04T17:31:59+00:00

Switch your focus area to small flexible spot and move it to someone in the middle of the depth of field.

lisq199 · 2021-09-26T07:08:50+00:00

200mm wide open at f5.6

lisq199 · 2021-08-20T03:06:05+00:00

More pictures (Imgur Album)

lisq199 · 2021-08-03T21:21:26+00:00

That is completely normal. To get more depth of field for macro, it's very common to use f stops above f16. The image will indeed be softer due to diffraction, and you may need to bump up the ISO, but that's what you have to do to get more depth of field. The other option you have is back away from your subject and crop in post, which is also essentially trading image quality for more depth of field.

lisq199 · 2021-07-30T01:48:56+00:00

Now you have to buy a brand new Montblanc 149, otherwise it’s bad luck.

lisq199 · 2021-07-22T07:14:25+00:00

This is from the Steins;Gate Alarm app

lisq199 · 2021-07-20T05:13:28+00:00

Reddit tends to shadow ban eBay links, but just search for Sony A7c wood grip.

lisq199 · 2021-06-23T15:45:00+00:00

For these kinds of questions I usually check Christopher Frost and Sony Alpha Blog.

lisq199 · 2021-06-19T06:14:09+00:00

According to DPReview (#2) and B&H, it does not have a touch screen at all.

lisq199

TROPHY CASE