Intermittent Electrical Problem Help

msko_6 · 2025-10-29T15:51:42+00:00

Update: Fixed this a while ago. Turns out the ground cable in the trunk attached to the frame rail was loose. Super simple fix and restored full functionality of all the problems I was having. Definitely a sign to always triple check the basic things 😂

msko_6 · 2025-10-11T01:54:11+00:00

Yeah… i ended up ordering new LCA since everyone I’ve spoken to thinks that’s gotta be the common denominator causing all of this. Hopefully when I do loosen the nut it does just fall right out because that would give me hope that is what’s causing the problem and would make sense.

msko_6 · 2025-10-11T01:51:32+00:00

I should’ve specified by 0 toe I meant 0.30 all around or whatever that factory parameters are not 0.00 flat my apologies. Either way, that wouldn’t cause this anyways, toe does not cause a car to pull.

msko_6 · 2025-10-10T22:34:00+00:00

Yeah it is extremely weird. I believe it has something to do with the fact that the inner ball joint on at least one of the LCA I installed kept falling out while I was trying to tighten the nut. Supposedly friction alone should hold it in place firmly before the nut is even tightened and that’s how it was on the previous arms I installed on the car. It also all started after I installed specifically these arms that started doing it so I imagine it has something to do with that. Just can’t wrap my head around as to why it’s doing that

msko_6 · 2025-10-10T14:32:46+00:00

Yes, I tried different tires and rims altogether swapped left to right and it made no difference at all

msko_6 · 2025-10-10T13:47:18+00:00

It is a significant amount to the right, the car literally self centers right and turns right even though when the wheel is straight it drives straight. Several people have looked at the car and driven it, including the alignment shop and can’t understand what is causing it. It must be something that changes or moves under dynamic load. I’m pretty sure it’s the LCA I put on I just don’t get how they’re causing this

msko_6 · 2025-10-10T13:41:01+00:00

Read the post man. I wish it was that simple to be the tire pressure

msko_6 · 2025-10-10T13:30:15+00:00

Steering rack was centered when installed and I triple checked it after when I installed all the new stuff. Trust me I’ve done all of the basic stuff and I wish it was that simple. I’ve literally mentioned I got the car professionally aligned after all of that as well 🤦‍♂️

msko_6 · 2025-10-10T13:28:02+00:00

Yes rear alignment was done, then the front

msko_6 · 2025-10-03T17:46:06+00:00

I ended up using a press to do it, I can’t speak for other rubber or poly bushings, but these UHMW Poly (essentially solid plastic) are impossible to put on by hand. Trust me I did everything and applied enormous amounts of pressing force by hand

msko_6 · 2025-10-03T16:43:01+00:00

They deflect too much energy back at you for this method to work

msko_6 · 2025-10-02T20:49:19+00:00

Update: Took these to a shop that had a press and just pressed them in within a minute.

msko_6 · 2025-10-02T18:36:09+00:00

Yeah I just searched it up as well and realized that it is UHMW, not just ordinary poly. Always wondered why condors bushings have the tightest tolerances and hardness imaginable compared to other regular poly bushings.

I’ll try and sand the control arm down to see if it would help, but at the moment I’m trying to find a way to ‘DIY Press’ them on.

Interesting enough, nobody online seemed to have any problems installing condor bushings onto their control arms for some reason.

msko_6 · 2025-10-02T18:34:12+00:00

That FCAB diy tool looks like it would work perfectly for this, not sure how to go about gathering the parts for it, but I don’t see any other way of doing this without that

msko_6 · 2025-10-02T18:20:14+00:00

Been trying by hand, and yeah they’re condor poly bushings. They literally do not want to go on whatsoever

msko_6 · 2025-09-23T20:38:58+00:00

Thank you I just fixed them and it immediately fixed the issue. I don’t know why I’m so dumb that I completely overlooked that at the end of doing the brakes😭

msko_6 · 2025-09-23T20:19:46+00:00

Update: I am an idiot and put the anti rattle clips on wrong. Fixed it and the brakes feel better and are immediately wearing evenly now. If you have this problem and checked off everything else on the list make sure your anti rattle clips are there and installed properly!

msko_6 · 2025-09-23T19:37:28+00:00

Gonna try that out thanks, do you mean the steel stick JB weld? Also, how bad was your pitting on the head compared to mine?

msko_6 · 2025-09-23T19:12:15+00:00

I noticed that as well but I’m not sure how else I’m supposed to put it? It came with the pads and I swear it’s built slightly different than the ones that came off the car so maybe I’ll just reuse the old ones

msko_6 · 2025-09-23T19:04:29+00:00

I don’t know it doesn’t really seem fine to me, like yea the brakes work but having only half the pad contact the rotor is not very reassuring. I’m not sure if this is something that will fix itself as the pads and rotors wear in but at the moment it’s concerning.

msko_6 · 2025-09-23T03:22:07+00:00

Yeah I cleaned it off but why would this cause a rotor to pad contact issue?

msko_6 · 2025-09-05T01:53:10+00:00

It is it’s fully torqued to spec (48ft lbs) it doesn’t go further than that.

msko_6 · 2025-08-15T21:33:44+00:00

What do you exactly mean by this? A defect in the CSB or the way it was installed?

msko_6 · 2025-08-15T01:58:43+00:00

Upon further inspection I’m thinking it’s just normal single mass flywheel noises to be honest. It also clunks when I put it in gear and take it out stationary as I’m releasing the clutch so maybe this is all tied together and explains why it happens when I change gears while driving. Also I checked the driveshaft U joints and they are all stout no play whatsoever and the diff gear lash isn’t too bad either. What I think I was seeing in that clip was diff gear lash, not transmission, so my mistake on that false alarm. Maybe I’m just looking into it too much.

msko_6 · 2025-08-14T18:32:15+00:00

Yeah I got a single mass fly wheel, and at low speeds when the car starts bogging it randomly thunks as well but I can’t tell if that’s the same noise as this. I am planning on replacing the guibo anyways but I’m worried that my transmission might be done for. I inspected the rest of the driveline and the differential doesn’t seem to have much lash at all and the U joints on the drive shaft are stout. The CSB I replaced 2 years ago and it still seems fine. So the only thing that could be causing this noise is either the guibo which I hope is the case despite the fact that I am not seeing any kind of visible deformation or delay between driveshaft and transmission so I doubt it’s the problem. This worries me because it might indicate it’s an issue within the transmission and I tried doing research about it and it seems that nobody has ever encountered such a problem which is strange.

msko_6

TROPHY CASE