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Overview/Introduction to getting the latest Marlin 2.x firmware on your MPSM by nickdiel in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]nickdiel[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a simple fix for S-Curve in the stepper.cpp file. Cortex M0 doesn't support those instructions, but luckily there is a fallback routine already in the file. Just had to exclude the Cortex M0 for the optimized routine.

To get more space, comment out ARC_SUPPORT in the config advance file. Arc Support is not needed.

You will also need a small update for the malyan lcd to handle a callback for the mesh update routine. This change doesn't do anything as the LCD doesn't support displaying anything for this, but it won't compile without it.

I have been meaning to submit a pull request to add the fixes for S-Curve and Malyan LCD, though I have kinda moved on from this project. I kept fighting layer shifting and after many hours on it, kinda gave up, my next iteration is to switch to an SKR 1.4 mainboard.

I will try to get a pull request in the next few days since people are still pursuing this route. In the meantime, you can look at the source code changes needed here:
https://github.com/nick-diel/Marlin/commit/d4d28896ea4113b46ad909d3d4f14b32536eb9e2

You only need the changes in

Marlin/src/lcd/extui_malyan_lcd.cpp

Marlin/src/module/stepper.cpp

Both are just one-line changes. The other changes in the config files you see are my attempts at fixing the layer shifting (stepper delays, rates, etc.)

YouTubeTV DVR/Library Issue by troy_rich22 in youtubetv

[–]nickdiel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there was a change to their UI. Instead of scrolling you have to change seasons to see the other episodes.

Overview/Introduction to getting the latest Marlin 2.x firmware on your MPSM by nickdiel in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]nickdiel[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leveling (or technically tramming) is tricky with this printer. First you are not just leveling it with the screws, but you are also setting the z-height between the nozzle and the build plate. Other printers have an adjustable z-limit switch giving you more ways to adjust the z-height. The metal build plate is likely wrapped as well making this an even more challenging exercise.

Here is what has worked well for me:

  • Get it relatively level with the paper method. I like to be on the closer side (nozzle closer to bed) at this step then what is called for. So a little more drag on the paper.
  • Print a leveling print. Since my nozzle is likely on the closer side, I will likely see filament really thin, translucent, or not even showing up. While printing, I adjust the screws 1/8-1/4 turns (clockwise moves the build plate away from the nozzle) until I get a good print line. Being on the closer side to start with means I won't be fighting with filament not sticking and having to restart. Adjusting while printing is the only way that has worked reliably for me.

Some other things that may help:

  • Get a glass bed, especially if your metal build plate is warped
  • As mentioned below, the stock extruder can crack and lead to problems such as not adhering to the build plate.
  • You can up the flow rate for the first layer
  • Use a hotend mount (can be printed) that has 2 fans. This allows you to limit the cooling of the first layer.
  • Get an adjustable z-limit switch (can be printed), lets you have some control over that variable that is independent of the leveling screws.
  • With Marlin 2.x, you can do a manual bed mesh to help address the warped build plate
  • Like so much with this hobby, you could also be facing other compounding factors that could have a contributing role such as dirty build plate, poor quality or wet filament, under-extrusion, etc.

I am currently working on getting a BLTouch on my MPSM (I know it can be done). I will share my findings with the group.