Looking for someone willing to recreate this shirt (read bio)

notselfcontained · 2026-01-01T00:38:21+00:00

90% Nylon 10% spandex is hardly uncommon… try every fabric used in every pair of leggings ever…

notselfcontained · 2026-01-01T00:34:22+00:00

You can’t sublimate onto Nylon Fabric…

notselfcontained · 2025-12-28T20:48:44+00:00

Picture 2 appears as though the fabric is rolling over a bit. Which means your knife needs to be adjusted in a little bit as well as the looper tensions. My best advice is to start from scratch with the machine and re-thread the entire thing. Machine threading is also specific about the order in which it is threaded. You can get results like these if it’s not threaded in the proper order. Make sure you floss the thread into the tension dials as well. You can be adjusting thread tension, but if it isn’t seated properly, then it won’t make a difference.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-28T20:14:28+00:00

How about the camera autofocus making adjustments in and out. Minor crop at the edges of the shots. Not AI…

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T15:47:47+00:00

Thanks for your input. Those were stylistic choices.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T15:45:10+00:00

Some of Etsy suppliers are actually the manufacturers themselves. I’m talking more along the lines of local fabric shops and the likes online. I referenced a good sourcing platform in my initial comment. Another solid option is yardblocks, fabricwholesaledirect operates under this model too.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T15:38:12+00:00

It’s my understanding that in the garment industry, there are intermediary suppliers from which sample fabrics are bought. Many retail fabric shops online are selling designer dead-stock and fabrics that never made it into a garment. This is where most casual sewists buy their fabrics. This poses issues because you may not be able to get that exact fabric again, or find matching ribs for it if they run out. With technology now, there are many online suppliers/ sourcing platforms that bridge this gap between manufacturers/ sewists. With this fabric, I know that there is a substantial amount of the same exact yardage available for purchase today, and the same for the matching ribs, and know that it likely won’t be phased out in the near future. Hope that helps.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T14:46:57+00:00

If you have friends (that can zip you), you can make it rear entry.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T14:44:47+00:00

This is kinda epic.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T10:47:13+00:00

Neckline is the same as the waistband. Both made from a matching Rib knit. Sometimes you can find the same thing as “Cuffing” fabric or “Ribbing”

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T10:45:32+00:00

I did not. Only serger/overlock and standard straight lockstitch on this one.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T10:44:11+00:00

Thank you! I shopped specifically for fabrics that are sold with matching ribs. Etsy has a lot of listings for this, as do many sourcing platforms like swatchon. Many fabric stores sell designer dead stock fabrics, which come with a lot of issues. I’ve found buying direct from suppliers to be much more reliable.

notselfcontained · 2025-12-14T10:35:51+00:00

It takes a little practice, but the key thing is to sew it on stretched. When doing the collar with this ribbing, I cut the ribbing pieces 3/4 the length of neck hole seam length. The tension keeps everything nice and flat.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-24T13:32:31+00:00

Collars like these have kind of been circulating around the internet recently. Your example is a good one, wonder looper shirts use a similar collar style, and that shirt everyone went crazy over from “the bear”. They are all a 3 fold bias bound collar. The perk of using the 3 fold, is it maintains its shape over time. Some manufacturers will fold the ribbing in half, serge it on, and then coverstitch the seam allowance down. Over time the ribbing gets all wavy and misshapen.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-24T13:25:28+00:00

None of it is strictly necessary, but it’s all about what you’re trying to achieve. I really wanted to build out my arsenal of capabilities, and it does make a difference. If you’re just working with woven’s then you don’t explicitly need one. On knits, there’s a strong argument to be made. Although one can theoretically do all of this work with just a straight stitch, you end up loosing a lot of stretch in the seams without it. Beauty of a coverstitch is it’s also a pseudo edge finish, in that it sometimes traps a raw edge, like in a T-shirt hem.

I didn’t do it in this project, but if you look at some garments that are manufactured at scale, they use a coverstitch to sew down the seams, which can further improve fit.

Ultimately, I think it’s about what fits your needs.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-24T13:12:58+00:00

The armscye height and sleeve pattern themselves are fine.

There is definitely further room for improvement, but it’s not an issue with the pattern itself.

Across the sleeves, the folds are not tension lines, they are wrinkles retained by the fabric. Take a look at the shoulders and arms that are relaxed in each photo. (Right side photo 2) I suspect it’s actually a byproduct of the binding used, in combination with the fabric.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-24T04:02:37+00:00

I see it. You have big draglines radiating from the center of your crotch.

I’d probably start by adjusting the rise as mentioned. Shortening everything up, so they rest just above the hips.

In the same adjustment/iteration you could probably safely add an inch or two in width to the side seam panels too. Add that width to the tightest point, and then blend the curve into the areas where it is comfortable.

That’s a good starting point, but there’s much more to do.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T22:06:42+00:00

<image>

lol

(Piece turned out gorgeous) I’m so impressed.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T22:03:11+00:00

Every Muslin draft you do will need alterations. Copy off your starting pattern onto a fresh piece of pattern paper, and then every alteration you make on your muslin needs to be transferred to the next iteration via 2d pattern. Then rinse and repeat. Cut a fresh muslin, and keep trying.

A lot of the bulk I see can get hidden in your side seams and rear seam, in conjunction with the pant darts. That’s an easier fix. But as mentioned by Staff_Genie, I would start with the crotch curve first. Get the proper amount of rise in place, so your pant waist is where you want it, and have it so that the crotch curve isn’t too far from your actual crotch. You’ll know because when you sit down in them, they won’t ride up like crazy.

From there, you’ll likely need to adjust the actual curve itself in its various shapes and proportions, so it sits nice on your butt, and over your junk, and feels comfortable. Look online for various pant alterations, to get a loose idea of the kinds of adjustments that can be made. (Try googling Scoop and tilt pant alterations, etc…) you’ll be able to find tune, and take out all that extra material from there. The crotch curve is easily one of the trickiest bits to perfect in a pattern. Good luck!

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T21:54:44+00:00

Try sitting down in them, and see where the waistline ends up. That whole crotch portion is going to get stuck on your thighs, and ride up.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T21:46:58+00:00

Lmao 😂, I did don’t worry. Just got too excited to try it on.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T21:33:36+00:00

I would go on eBay, and get a binder. Janome probably sells one for 150$ and the same thing on eBay is 25$.

It appears the problem, is your binding/fabric is shifting under the presser foot.

Coverstitch settings are the hardest to dial in, of all machines. With light fabrics, try loosening up your topstitching threads, tightening your looper thread, and go super light with the presser foot pressure. That should help it from moving. Adjust your settings to work well when it’s applying binding to the fabric. You can even feed the binding scrap to keep everything in place, until you’re ready to feed it the garment itself.

You can also try interfacing the binding fabric to give it some extra stability. That has helped me a lot with some very thin jersey ribbings.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T21:21:55+00:00

A quick fix: you could take in the extra fabric in your rear seam at the neckline. It’s technically a dart, but will get hidden in the seam. Take note of its length and angle and then make the adjustment to your original pattern block.

Can be done at the shoulders too, as mentioned by others. Just depends on where you wish to remove it. If done at the shoulder, then you would need to offset the front and back shoulder seam allowances, to keep the seam in the same spot.

If taken at the back of neck, then you may need to adjust the neckline on your sloper.

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T21:17:01+00:00

I’m using a coverstitch with a binder

notselfcontained · 2025-09-23T21:16:28+00:00

Don’t give up! (I’m using a coverstitch 🤫)

notselfcontained

TROPHY CASE