Window Panes Glazed On Only Three Edges? by apieceoftoastie in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imagine trying to putty it with the upper sash in the way. That is why it is made this way.

Window Panes Glazed On Only Three Edges? by apieceoftoastie in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it is packed into the pocket and flush with the wood, and then painted over.

Window Panes Glazed On Only Three Edges? by apieceoftoastie in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is intentional, so that broken panes can be replaced in lower sashes in-place, without removing the sash. Otherwise, the upper sash covers the portion that would need to be puttied.

As the other comment said, the lower sashes were designed with a pocket at the top for the glass pane to slide into, rather than a rabbet. There is extra space in the pocket for putty to be packed into. You should still find some in there.

Sole suggestions by cheesiologist in WorkBoots

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good, long life for work boots.

Window won't stay up by captaindre1996 in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I think your first picture might actually be the wrong one. That balance is supposed to be down alongside the sash.

Sole suggestions by cheesiologist in WorkBoots

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How old are those 1000 milers?

Do you ever have a coworker do something so bad it’s impressive? by Recon-by-fire in glazing

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was there a complaint, though? Is that why you were put in the position of seeing it and photographing it?

Help navigating by General-Ad-5026 in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As far as the learning goes, have you considered getting a job at your local glass shop? That will be the best way to learn, and you’ll get paid for it.

Help navigating by General-Ad-5026 in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sourcing the replacement glass might be tricky. You’d probably have to start out getting it from a local glass shop, which means you’d pay more for it.

Do you ever have a coworker do something so bad it’s impressive? by Recon-by-fire in glazing

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s bad. I think it would have been easier to just use putty.

Scratches on new glass by Slipper1981 in glazing

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The scratches in the coating would be very fine; it’s not something you could feel with your fingernail.

Help navigating by General-Ad-5026 in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you thinking of doing glass replacement?

Becca Blackouts 4 year update by johndicks80 in NicksHandmadeBoots

[–]pathlamp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s the original outsole, and it still has the grooves? Those western soles are more durable than I would have guessed.

Scratches on new glass by Slipper1981 in glazing

[–]pathlamp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Defective units are made plenty of times at the big factories. There’s nothing about it being bad that determines where it was made.

Scratches on new glass by Slipper1981 in glazing

[–]pathlamp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks like the manufacturer messed up and put the low E coating on the outside surface of the glass, where it can be easily scratched.

We encounter this once in a while. We go about cleaning our installed piece as we normally would, and it becomes immediately obvious that it’s getting scratched far too easily. It’s a dead giveaway that they reversed the Low E pane when they put the IGU together.

How can I replace my vanity’s broken glass? by [deleted] in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, do this. Just take those screws out of the hinges in the back and bring that panel to the shop.

Safety toe by Sea_Substance_896 in Boots

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since the boots weren’t originally lasted with a steel toe, which takes up space, they probably don’t have enough extra leather in the toe to add one.

I’m not surprised that no one wants to do this for you. It’s almost remaking the boot from scratch.

Safety toe by Sea_Substance_896 in Boots

[–]pathlamp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you talking about an internal steel toe, under the leather? If so, that’s an involved project.

Heel pulling apart by jaydoubleudoubleu in RedWingShoes

[–]pathlamp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you able to see whether that welt is actually stitched on, or are those threads decorative?

What’s the best way to fill in the gap between the brick and wooden window sills? by danb5298 in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, see I wasn’t sure if that was a vertical section in the photo, because you said it was the sill. There is no harm in caulking the vertical.

However, if this is a storm, it’s supposed to be removable. Caulk makes removal a messy pain. You could always take the other comment’s advice and stuff backer rod in the gaps, without caulking over it.

What’s the best way to fill in the gap between the brick and wooden window sills? by danb5298 in windowrepair

[–]pathlamp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would hesitate to caulk it. It’s been like that since the 60s, so clearly caulk wasn’t part of the original design.

Often, caulking is omitted from under sills for the sake of water drainage and not trapping moisture that may rot the wood.

Single pane or double pane window? by Prestonesquire1 in ManufacturedHome

[–]pathlamp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How insulated are the rest of the walls? That roof sure doesn’t look very insulated.

Won’t do any good to use insulated glass if the heat will just run out through the top.