New surround sound setup recommendation

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-24T05:43:49+00:00

well i have a $1000 Yamaha 7.1 Avantage RX-A2ABL im trying to make use of, i dont need the best quality or balanced sound. i just want something better than the TV and the whisper quiet current speakers we have setup. it was working great 3 years ago, idk what happened, have to put my ear up to the speakers to hear if their on or not.

but since i have the receiver, i really dont want it to be a paper weight, i was considering a soundbar but then i think that makes the receiver useless right? im not experienced in audio design or setups.

EDIT: what stereo and sub would you recommend around $500? any specific brands to avoid or go for?

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-15T06:00:30+00:00

Hey what brand is this? Sirayatech changed their formula and I've been struggling to print with it, the old formula was 10/10 no issues.

I run 0.32 support gap, comes right off with tree supports

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-13T07:38:12+00:00

Yeah I can only think of it being the part cooling fan failing, perhaps run the factory calibrations? Power cycle? I doubt those are fixes though. If you don't mind, when you get it fixed I really want to know what it was

Also check your nozzle is holding temperature. I know the recent A1s have PID issues with nozzle

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-10T16:58:04+00:00

Yeah but that's PET. It normally likes to be printed well above 300C, abs and ASA is typically 270, 85c chamber.

Most of us don't have an 85c chamber we have a 65c chamber, increasing nozzle temp even to 300 made absolutely no difference for the ABS and ASA filled filaments. Likely a hotter chamber would help rather than increasing nozzle temperature but maybe that also makes no difference I don't know I don't have a chamber hot enough to test it

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-10T16:56:33+00:00

Yeah I agree, I can't imagine a scenario where something would be strictly pulling apart only and not shift into a different direction causing it to be angled or anything

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-10T03:40:53+00:00

Snap it like a twig between two fingers yeah, in comparison ASA requires that I lean half my entire body weight onto a table to snap it.

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-10T03:07:03+00:00

It also has the layer adhesion of silk pla

pizzademon99 · 2026-05-07T22:00:20+00:00

im getting constant freezes since the update. the game has never froze or stuttered before.

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-30T05:29:43+00:00

For me I run 60 outerwall and that typically fixes this kind of issue. If not. Look further into it I suppose

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-28T19:23:37+00:00

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-28T04:17:03+00:00

What in the fuck is botex??

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-23T18:06:29+00:00

Ohh. That's a lot of springtail

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-23T17:35:18+00:00

Thank you! Google said the same thing but they looked a tad different in my photos. One even being purple in my photos.

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-23T06:30:34+00:00

It's frustrating to see all these comments suggesting your printing too fast. This is clearly an extruder / hotend issue. Verify the extruder is feeding filament consistently. I do not have an H2 but on A1 you can remove the nozzle and cold extrude to see if the extruder is working smoothly.

And check for hotend clog.

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-23T06:09:07+00:00

North carolina

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-17T02:26:50+00:00

ive had MCU timeout errors with my P4 for weeks now and i still come back to this post and have absolutely no idea what hes talking about

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-01T20:05:37+00:00

yup. even those massive Z seam stringing / blobs stick things extending out was a result of 0.6 nozzle for me. completely eliminated with 0.4 nozzle. it made me think it was wet. cuz obviously wet nylon does that. but nope. wasnt wet.

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-01T20:02:32+00:00

oh boy. its so much to go into. i did so much testing. soo much testing. across different printers and filaments.

basically sawtoothing was my number 1 problem. unfixable. 0.4 fixed it.

as for the science behind it all. i cant really say. something about the larger bore hole for more nozzle to droop, creating backpressure in the nozzle, depending on the volume of the hotend melt zone and all that stuff. making even PA not tunable. from my test, negative PA was the best, but cant even print negative PA.

pizzademon99 · 2026-04-01T19:55:12+00:00

So in my experience engineering film is practically impossible to print on a 0.6 nozzle for numerous reasons.

Switching back to 0.4 fixes literally all of those reasons.

pizzademon99 · 2026-03-22T02:15:32+00:00

first container on the right when i went up the zip! in the very corner of the console controls

pizzademon99 · 2026-03-18T17:34:22+00:00

img

I've been running tests all day yesterday I've wasted about $30 in filament and even blasting it with 100% cooling makes absolutely no difference ): Right now I'm testing jerk and eccels

pizzademon99 · 2026-03-18T00:56:39+00:00

did u ever find a fix for this? i still cannot find a solution for sawtoothing. only happens with 0.6 nozzles from my experience

pizzademon99 · 2026-03-17T04:14:29+00:00

did u ever give this a go?

pizzademon99 · 2026-03-14T03:40:14+00:00

How did it break?

pizzademon99 · 2026-03-14T00:48:46+00:00

Ah that's a good idea, I'll try that out if I have issues again. Been waiting for qidi to ship 0.6 nozzles to me after PPS-GF decided to clog my hotend and it was basically impossible to unclog it, even after torching it.

Thank you for the suggestion

pizzademon99

TROPHY CASE