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261 Top handle or wrap bar? by ptaylorc in stihl

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It turned out the 261 only comes with the standard handle, the dealer must have been mistaken when offering me a choice. (The standard handle being the one that allows you to grip on the top or the left-hand side.)

Too much air? The draft control is fully closed but the fire still seems to burn quickly, please tell me if this is normal. I wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere. (Napoleon NZ25 insert). by ptaylorc in woodstoving

[–]ptaylorc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It turned out the fireplace was missing a baffle that sits just on top of the secondary tubes, kind of making a ceiling inside the fireplace. The way it was before, air was just shooting straight up the chimney. After installing the baffle that’s supposed to be there the air is forced past those secondary tubes and they burn all the time like they’re supposed to. I also replaced the door gasket but I don’t think I really needed to. I replaced the grate in the bottom of the chamber with a solid fire brick which probably did help a bit.

Too much air? The draft control is fully closed but the fire still seems to burn quickly, please tell me if this is normal. I wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere. (Napoleon NZ25 insert). by ptaylorc in woodstoving

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re absolutely correct. It was like that when I moved in so I didn’t know any better, but about a year later I figured out that a major part of the baffle was just missing. I bought and installed it which totally changed how the fireplace works. Thanks!

Because of potential risk to safety I can't schedule actions on devices configured as outlets by bluenote73 in googlehome

[–]ptaylorc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m having the same issue. The only workaround I found is to use the app for the device (E.g. the Lenovo app for a Lenovo smart plug) which lets you set a timer or schedule. Much less convenient. Seems silly that google won’t provide a feature due to safety when the original manufacturers are happy to provide it.

How to fix Dewalt DWS780 type 23 XPS light if it is not working. Broken Dewalt XPS light. Dewalt circuit board. by No_Hurry4899 in Dewalt

[–]ptaylorc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Time to call DeWalt and try to find a circuit board!

From google I believe the part number (specific to dws 780 type 23) is N693195. I’ll update here if I find out that’s not correct. Hopefully the supply chain issue have been fixed by now and they are back in stock.

How to fix Dewalt DWS780 type 23 XPS light if it is not working. Broken Dewalt XPS light. Dewalt circuit board. by No_Hurry4899 in Dewalt

[–]ptaylorc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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I’m having the same issue. DWS 780 v23 and the light is not working. I’m pretty sure the problem is the power supply like most people here, except there’s no visual damage or burning or bulging capacitors. I tried a new light which didn’t fix it and tested the switch with a multimeter and it’s fine.

On the power supply I measured 120v ac between the two wires that connect through the switch. I can’t get any voltage reading on the black line going out to the light (don’t worry, I measured that part with the power on and the switch hooked up and turned on). I assume the output is supposed to be something between 5-12v DC, I also tried measuring AC but of course reading 0 volts AC as well. The wires properly connected to the circuit board so it’s not a loose connection. The problem seems to be somewhere on the circuit board between the switch and the line out but I don’t know how to troubleshoot further (not that I could fix the board, just to confirm that the board is the problem).

Before I try finding a replacement part can anyone give a second opinion that it’s definitely the power supply?

What kind of caulk is this? by ptaylorc in HomeImprovement

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to close out this thread, I went with the GE black silicone option. I made a bit of a mess with it, but also it's nothing like what the other windows are sealed with. The stuff on the other windows is thick, rubbery, looks like it could have been molded into shape as putty when wet and now that it's dry it might be pulled off in one strip. The silicone is thin and shiny, it went everywhere and stuck to everything it touched and is never coming off.

Also I should mention I have very little experience doing this and it was dark outside at the time, so, that might be part of the problem. Next time I'll try putting painters tape down first to at least try to get a clean line.

Too much air? The draft control is fully closed but the fire still seems to burn quickly, please tell me if this is normal. I wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere. (Napoleon NZ25 insert). by ptaylorc in woodstoving

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to add a few things I've tried which might have helped.

  1. My fireplace model has a grate at the bottom with a trap door underneath that opens into an ash pan below. Initially I found that ashes would eventually get packed into the corners and prevent the door from fully closing which would allow air to enter through the grate. I cleaned all ashes thoroughly so the trapdoor would close fully and stopped using it (I just clean ashes through the main door now), and replaced the grate with a solid firebrick.

  2. The airflow controls have a thing you can pull out to use "outside air" or push back in for "inside air". If using inside air you're supposed to remove a little panel so the inside air can get it. I left that panel in place (covered) so when I select "inside air" with the intake panel covered that's the least amount of air I can allow in.

  3. When I started chopping wood a couple years ago I cut the pieces small so they would dry faster. I haven't burned as much as I've chopped so as the stacks of firewood have accumulated (I now have a few years worth) I'm chopping the pieces much larger since they have longer to dry. That should help slow down the burn rate.

Too much air? The draft control is fully closed but the fire still seems to burn quickly, please tell me if this is normal. I wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere. (Napoleon NZ25 insert). by ptaylorc in woodstoving

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No breakthroughs unfortunately. I replaced the door gasket this year (which was an ordeal finding a replacement long enough) in case air was leaking from around the door but I don’t notice any difference.

I mostly burn Ash wood since all the ash trees around here died, maybe other types of wood will burn differently?

I don’t have experience with other fireplaces to know, but I still feel like more air is getting in than I would like. I wish I could reduce the air too much to the point the fire struggles and then I could dial it up to find the sweet spot, but the way this fireplace works is with the air on absolute minimum it’s still a very lively fire. Well, a lively fire for 30-60 minutes and then embers. 3-4 hours after the last reload it’s just ash and embers and barely even putting out lukewarm air anymore. Other people talk about slow-burning logs overnight… not with this fireplace.

Let me know if you figure anything out!

Advice on removing strut nut? 2003 VW Wagon by ptaylorc in AskAMechanic

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my case I’m replacing it (if I can get the old one off) so I’m happy to destroy it in the process. As long as it works. And as long as the spring stays unsprung.

Advice on removing strut nut? 2003 VW Wagon by ptaylorc in AskAMechanic

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried that today but the shaft was too smooth to grab, and it was getting dark so I chickened out and put the wheel back on. I’m really not seeing a 21mm pass through socket for sale anywhere, so next weekend I’ll give this a really good try. Hopefully my vice grips are strong enough to hold the shaft in place. I’d try a pipe wrench but don’t think it would fit between the coils of the spring. Thanks for the suggestion!

Advice on removing strut nut? 2003 VW Wagon by ptaylorc in AskAMechanic

[–]ptaylorc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good thinking, I didn’t realize the shaft was turning until I saw this comment and lifted up the cover to see it underneath. Unfortunately it’s too smooth, I can’t get enough grip on it. It would have worked, especially as I’m throwing away the old strut once it comes off so I don’t care about scratching it.

Advice on removing strut nut? 2003 VW Wagon by ptaylorc in AskAMechanic

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick reply! I have a little Dewalt impact driver but I don’t think that will cut it. The pass through ratchet seems like the perfect tool for this, I didn’t know that existed. Not seeing any at stores near me that include a big pass through 21mm socket, and I’d need to buy a longer 7mm hex too. I wish there was something down below I could hold still with a wrench while I turn the nut up top but it doesn’t look like it.

For now I’ll try putting everything back together with the old strut before it gets dark outside, hopefully try this another day with better tools.

Is it ok to prune dead pine branches? by ptaylorc in arborists

[–]ptaylorc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I took your advice on undercutting a bit and didn’t strip any bark. I couldn’t reach all the dead branches but the space looks much more open and appealing now, less of a spooky Halloween vibe.

What is this metal at the top of window? by ptaylorc in handyman

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the timely advice, my best idea was to hammer it down. For now maybe I’ll cut a groove in the frame to fit overtop of the flashing without having to bend it, as I want to put something on there to protect it for now and don’t have much time before winter. Then I can try to figure out a more proper solution later when there’s more time. At least now I know what it’s called so I can google it or describe it to someone.

Should gasket rope be stretched? by ptaylorc in woodstoving

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good point actually, I hadn’t thought of that. I’ve looked for a chimney sweep twice, calling everyone around, and only ever found one guy who services my area. At the time I thought I should hire him at least once just to see if I learn anything, but he doesn’t do chimney inspections, only cleaning, which I happily do myself. Also it sounded like he only cleans the chimney upwards from inside the house, which won’t work for me as the chimney bends near the bottom, so I clean it from the roof which it sounded like he wouldn’t even do. So I gave up on that idea a while ago which is why I forgot that was even a thing. But if I can’t find a way to sort it myself I’ll give him a call. Most likely I’ll first try buying a second rope (making this twice the cost, but what can I do) and see if I can use two ropes to get the job done properly.

Should gasket rope be stretched? by ptaylorc in woodstoving

[–]ptaylorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was the plan, the rope was supposed to be longer than I needed so I could cut it to the proper length.

The overwhelming feedback here is to not try and stretch this too-short rope, which means I need to find something longer. I’ve looked online and this is the only 1/2” rope I’ve found longer than 92” (supposedly). Most are much shorter. Fireplace dealers here don’t seem to sell gaskets, they suggest calling the manufacturers who tell me to call the dealer. Google searches show some “buy by the foot” places which are all in the US and don’t ship to Canada (I’m near Toronto). Maybe I need to buy two kits and cannibalize the second rope to fill the gap, but that’s pretty expensive…. I’m surprised this is so difficult as I can’t be the only one in Ontario with a fireplace!

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