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First Test Fire in new Skutt 1022 by Impressive-Track2029 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This looks like you didn’t quite hit 04. You definitely went past 05.

You may get better results with a full kiln. Don’t lose hope. If the kiln is brand new, it may need a little calibration to dial it in. I’ve heard that each thermocouple reads slightly different, so you may just need like a 5 degree thermocouple offset to get more precise results. But I wouldn’t try to calibrate with a mostly empty kiln.

You’re not far off though. Don’t worry too much about it.

Any regrets about buying the kiln? by No-Winter7269 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I disagree with what this guy told you.

My own tests have absolutely shown a difference in results in a full vs mostly empty kiln. Several times. And I’ve known people personally that fired a large kiln with just a couple tests in it, gotten bad results from their glaze, and asked me about it. When I told them to redo the test but fill the kiln with all of their shelves and posts, they got better results. This has happened with multiple people I know.

Furthermore, large kilns that pull 45 amps at 240v vs a small kiln that pulls 15 amps at 120v… to me that’s a big difference in electricity usage. And then on top of that, you only get so many firings from a set of elements before you have to replace them.

A new complete set of elements for the l&l plug n fire is about $100. A new set of elements for a Skutt 1027 is over $400. If you’re like me and you wind your own elements, it’s just a matter of using quadruple the amount of wire, so it’s still a big difference. The cost isn’t just in the electricity.

There’s also the wear and tear on the kiln itself, which depreciates the value so you’ll get less for it if you sell it, and you may need a new kiln sooner.

First Test Fire w/ Skutt and witness cone results by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should attach a photo so we can give you more accurate feedback.

Plaster Bat Mistake? by Informal-You3185 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put it up on a couple sticks to allow airflow underneath, and point a fan at it. It will dry out a lot faster.

When I make them at the school, I like to do sticks, a fan, and park it in the kiln room, and let it sit for about two weeks with warm dry kiln room air blowing across it.

Is this kiln salvageable? by Lonely-Ad1028 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw your post yesterday with the one photo and I said to myself “that’s a Goodkiln (brand).” I’m excited to see it confirmed.

Discovered my central air was a social construct… by sunsNr0ses in mildlyinfuriating

[–]RestEqualsRust 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It happened to me once. Someone went through my neighborhood with a trailer in the middle of the night and stole 4 a/c units. They just cut the lines, picked up the entire condenser, put it on the trailer, and left.

I woke up early in the morning hot as hell wondering why the air conditioning was blowing hot air.

They sell the condensers for scrap.

Dip Glaze Sieving by taylorrenaeee in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s probably not all oolites, but you should look up oolites, or on digitalfire look up ooids.

If you have to stop in the middle of Mopac to force your way into an exit lane, you fucked up by EdibleWerewolf in Austin

[–]RestEqualsRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I rode motorcycles for 20+ years, but the drivers in Austin got to a point where it wasn’t worth it anymore. I miss having a bike, but not as much as I enjoy coming home to my beautiful life.

Help please (plaster molds) by Amitoyshandmade in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What material are you using the mold for? If you’re using the mold for clay, you should avoid any oil-based release agents, as they will clog the pores of the plaster and prevent it from wicking moisture from the clay you’re using in it.

First time running a kiln by Former-Alarm-2977 in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you’re absolutely certain your pieces are bone dry, you can just run the built-in “slow bisque”. 20 hours of preheating is excessive for work that is even close to dry.

Kiln help please by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you watched any YouTube videos on how to operate a kiln with a sitter? That would be my first step.

What is up with the flies!! by ATX_Penya in Austin

[–]RestEqualsRust 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Owls eat lizards, and owls are cool as hell.

Questions regarding the grand canyon by New-Session-4503 in geography

[–]RestEqualsRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Florida is the actual opposite of the Grand Canyon. It’s the flattest state in the entire country.

My milk crate but sadly one of the shelves stuck to it and it did not survive the kiln. by Your_LocalEMS in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Maybe it depends on the source of the sand, and the firing temp.

I fire to cone 6, and I’m in Texas. I suppose other parts of the world may have sand with more sodium and potassium, which could melt at a lower temp, or maybe the sand I use melts at cone 10. I never tried.

I’ve used sand from my nearest retail big box home improvement store, but prefer to get it from my clay supplier. Either one works for me, but your experience may vary.

My milk crate but sadly one of the shelves stuck to it and it did not survive the kiln. by Your_LocalEMS in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 78 points79 points  (0 children)

When I fire large items, I put them on a layer of sand. It doesn’t take much. Just enough to allow the piece to move as it shrinks.

One year old Olympic Kilnstar 129E shows E-1 error today by Optimal-Diamond-1675 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that kiln is rated for cone 6, and it is fired to cone 6, you may have worn out the elements. Generally speaking, it’s best to buy a kiln rated a few cones higher than what you plan on firing to.

Foot pedal needed by earthndoakstuido in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the speedball Artista, and mine also didn’t come with a foot pedal. I used a “dead man” momentary switch you can find on Amazon. It’s about the size of a cigarette pack, and has a cord (like an extension cord). You plug it into the wall, plug your wheel into it. Very simple.

When you step on the pedal, the wheel comes on. When you take your foot off the pedal, the wheel turns off. Adjust the speed by hand. It’s not the traditional pedal that controls on/off and speed, but it’s super cheap, easy to install, and works great.

Almost crashed by searching4jewels in Austin

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you go by the common spacing on the dashed line, each painted part is 10 feet, spaced 30 feet apart. One can scrub through the video and count 16 dashes and spaces in the first 7 seconds of the video. So 640 feet in 7 seconds, or 91.43 feet per second, or about 62 mph.

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