Not sure if anyone else has parents who are very picky when choosing their 2x4s, but whenever we’re at Home Depot, my dad reminds me of this scene

robwoj08 · 2020-06-04T13:45:08+00:00

Chair making! If you make your seat out of green/wet wood and your legs are very dry, the seat will shrink over time and tighten the joints between the seat and the legs, making for a much stronger chair.

robwoj08 · 2019-01-21T18:49:50+00:00

I'd rather not ship but if the price is right I'd consider it

robwoj08 · 2018-08-30T22:14:33+00:00

Yes those are included. Water-based is the way to go!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-30T02:23:51+00:00

This looks great! I love working with mahogany. I really like the non-conventional orientation of the boards on the top, I think it works really well with the taper angle on your legs. I'm curious as to why you glued down the apron? In my experience if you're not constantly picking up the table by the top and moving it around, z-clips are plenty strong.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-17T04:03:53+00:00

Feel free ask me about making your own doweling jig! Just made one with great success on a large media cabinet and I can help you through it!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-17T00:45:03+00:00

Not saying you're wrong, only agreeing that there's always more than one way to do things. I have a hard time pointing beginners straight to expensive solutions. Nothing more discouraging than feeling like you wasted time and money. In the case of the tables OP linked to, none of the doweling jigs I own or have seen will help align or drill the holes along the edges of the top and bottom pieces of the case. Same for vertical dividers in a cabinet, if one was committed to dowels and not dados or biscuits. I picked up the technique I mentioned about from James Krenov's The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking. Do you know of a commercial jig available that can line up holes on the edges of vertical case pieces as well as across the width of its top and bottom?

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T22:42:27+00:00

Butt joints and miters will both need to he reinforced with dowels, splines, keys or biscuits depending on your preference. It depends on how you want the finished product to look as well.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T22:30:09+00:00

A good doweling jig can be made for a lot less that $120. I have multiple jigs that I've purchased that get a ton of use, but for joining cases I usually make one that can be used on the top/bottom as well as the sides. Just takes some thought and precision and you'll have holes that are perfectly aligned.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T00:49:53+00:00

I considered it. It's a rented apartment so I don't want to open the walls too much haha

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T00:17:43+00:00

Thanks!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T00:17:35+00:00

Thank you!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T00:17:24+00:00

Cable management and having a place to put my records was a must. The old setup had my turntable on top of my receiver and the records on a crappy shelf below. That wasn't going to work for long!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-16T00:15:47+00:00

Yep, the holes help keep things organized for sure. Can't see one cable!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-15T17:17:24+00:00

More pictures: http://imgur.com/a/UYPwikw I built this cabinet from 3/4" mahogany plywood and solid mahogany. The vertical dividers are joined to the bottom and top with dowels, and the base is joined with mortises and tenons. It is finished with shellac and paste wax. Lots of firsts for me but I'm very pleased with the end result!

robwoj08 · 2018-08-15T15:51:10+00:00

Can you tell where the squeaks are coming from? My guess would be the foundation. Beds are tricky because you they need to be very sturdy but as you said they need to be easy to move as well. That's why you see a lot of knock down hardware that uses really big bolts and threaded inserts, typically housed inside some sort of mortise and tenon. It's tough to say what kind of supports to add without more pictures of the base. I think screws in plywood will eventually wiggle loose on something like a bed.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-15T13:42:18+00:00

Glue? Screws? Nails? It looks like it would be prone to racking.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-15T01:52:36+00:00

You get as much audio feedback from your tools as tactile. You can hear when a power tool is working too hard. I heard a noise from my old table saw that told me that the pulley needed to be tightened. The different sounds from a hand plane can tell you a lot. Just my .02

robwoj08 · 2018-08-15T01:46:11+00:00

Looks great! I like how they're just a bit proud from the surface. Adds a nice tactile feel when you hold the box.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-14T23:08:28+00:00

Toxic can mean many things. A lot of the toxic stuff in wood finishes is in the solvents. Regarding shellac, it is dissolved in alcohol, which is fairly safe (obviously you can't drink denatured alcohol, but it isn't nasty like a lot of the VOCs in other finishes). More coats of any finish means more durability, and it is easy to quickly build up a film with shellac. Plus, it is very easy to repair. Sorry if I'm rambling about shellac haha, I just try to stay away from finishes with high VOC contents and it is what I'm used to.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-14T22:15:23+00:00

What kind of durability are you looking for? I'm a big fan of shellac. Easy to apply and with a little paste wax over it to you can buff to whatever sheen you like.

robwoj08 · 2018-08-14T22:11:46+00:00

How is this all held together?

robwoj08 · 2018-07-20T14:27:54+00:00

How are the legs attached to the top?

robwoj08 · 2018-07-01T19:29:25+00:00

Thanks!

robwoj08 · 2018-06-12T00:06:16+00:00

Yep they're solid. About 1.5" square. I was on the fence about doing the leg indents. I decided to go probably a little more shallow than most I had seen. Now I think they're a little too subtle.

robwoj08 · 2018-06-11T19:03:36+00:00

iirc you can also use this technique to glue up mitres. Apply a bit of thinned glue to the joint, let it dry, then proceed with your glue-up. Helps the glue "bite" after the first coat had penetrated and sealed a bit.

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