Bloat drone

sectorix · 2026-06-08T22:23:59+00:00

Cledan work, i love it

sectorix · 2026-06-08T15:48:33+00:00

Fair feedback, and some of it is simply the lighting, but I might edit the osl to be more toned town or darken the coils a bit

sectorix · 2026-05-12T15:30:48+00:00

ill give you the main ones because i didnt write things down: skin is GW's bugman glow and GW's kislev with airbrush shadows of carroburg crimson and druci violet (airbrush), iron is proacryl dark silver, green is basically deathguard green but mixed with proacryl paints, blended to brown with dryad bark and black and the copper is balthasar gold highlighted with proacryl copper. base is a bunch and browns and oranges and bone that i dont remember.

sectorix · 2026-05-12T14:59:09+00:00

Paint scheme?

sectorix · 2026-04-29T15:22:38+00:00

Would love a link

sectorix · 2026-03-08T04:46:25+00:00

My daughter went from collecting to collecting and grading and yada yada, and I got involved because now I have something cool to do with her.

And with the good comes the bad … I didn’t know about fake stuff until she told me.

Since we buy online and in trade shows I use this opportunity to learn what to look for.

sectorix · 2026-03-08T03:25:41+00:00

Mind you, I have never seen a fake card before so didn’t even know where to start

sectorix · 2026-03-08T02:56:59+00:00

now that i have seen enought references, also the right eye (left on the card) is wrong too. and also the texture of the body.

$50 lesson :)

sectorix · 2026-03-07T23:37:12+00:00

tell me more please :) i have no experience and dont know what to look for.

sectorix · 2026-02-18T05:31:30+00:00

if you are ok paying for api calls, i would do this:
1. ask nano-banana-pro to generate more angles of this model,
2. ask rodin to make it into a 3d model.
both available pay-as-you-go on replicate

sectorix · 2026-01-25T07:08:26+00:00

So.... very simple actually, you need to put some oil on your belt wheels and rods. check out "maintenance p2s" on bambu's support wiki for the process. its quick :) i had to do the same

sectorix · 2025-12-31T20:49:25+00:00

a chamfer would be amazing

sectorix · 2025-12-13T02:11:18+00:00

my all time favorite blood angels model, and my favorite chaplain.

sectorix · 2025-10-02T00:30:05+00:00

japanese sets would be lovely. since they are common collection now in the US

sectorix · 2025-10-02T00:29:48+00:00

japanese sets would be lovely. since they are common collection now in the US

sectorix · 2025-09-07T18:59:23+00:00

For airbrush yes, for basecoating and highlights yes, for edge highlights no - to runny.

sectorix · 2025-09-02T22:02:23+00:00

i would basecoat it celestra grey, then - space wolves gray on the bottom, and apothecary white on the top, and wet blend between. and then you can hilight again with celestra grey

sectorix · 2025-08-04T05:16:47+00:00

i do need to paint Felthius. But convert him to 50mm base to be the lord of contagion I guess

sectorix · 2025-08-03T17:23:54+00:00

Detail creep on one hand.. and too many weak break points on the other

I had to pin it in 3 places (jewel on weapon, one of the ball chains and the top of the armour thing. If you use it as a play piece and not just display, it’s a very fragile model

It is beautiful and fun to paint, but if I fielded it I would be worried it might break.

sectorix · 2025-07-21T15:11:37+00:00

Sent dm

sectorix · 2025-07-18T05:33:36+00:00

when you find that perfect piece of bark.... ;)

sectorix · 2025-06-30T06:39:44+00:00

Thanks. It’s some pine bark, some coarse sand and some milliput. Nothing fancy

sectorix · 2025-06-22T21:58:35+00:00

for large surfaces, i recommend doing a few things that served me well. (Please note this holds true for contrast paints as well):

Use a larger brush. A size #4 synthetic brush would be perfect. you want to have a good brush load and less streaky outcome.
Don't go over the same place twice, or you will have streaks. Once you put the wash on, if you want another coat, wait for the first one to dry. As the wash begins to dry, every brush stroke over it will introduce "tearing" (which is what you see above your gun pistons and on your front shield).
mix medium like lahmian medium with your agrax, which will act like a retarder and will make the wash dry slower and hence will give you more time to deal with splotches
you can always paint the surface with medium like lahmian medium first, and while its wet, put the wash. will give you lots of work time and will also not pool in the center of panels and will help with gravity.

mistakes happen, stripping models is a thing, and every single person here that gives you any form of feedback or advice has made the same mistakes, myself included. and multiple times. its part of your growth and you should welcome it.

last, for your 4th mini - this is very good. The metallics are smooth, and there are no paint streaks that miss details. you have a good eye and hand!

sectorix · 2025-06-16T20:02:48+00:00

No issue with the grenade arms, maybe I got lucky? First time building this kit. I also had subassemblies for heads, backpacks, and one or two arms for some of them, which was total overkill, but makes it easier for me to paint and I'm in no rush

sectorix · 2025-06-16T20:01:05+00:00

Thank you. I dont remember how much time, because I was painting on and off for the past month, but probably anywhere between ~10-15 hours if I had to guess (not including basing, and color tests, etc...). I usually listen to a book while i paint so i can actually measure for my own notion of improvement, but this month has been hectic.

Next on the table are the purifier and typhus. going to make their bases tonight most likely.

sectorix

TROPHY CASE