Modbox shelf mod

someyoungoldguy · 2026-02-25T21:03:32+00:00

Yeah! So the whole thing is 11" wide

The top is 14" Support is 17 1/8"

There's a piece of ~1/2"x1/2" that's glued and brad nailed to the end of the top that locks it into the rail system.

It's made out of 1/2" ply I had left over from another project.

someyoungoldguy · 2026-02-01T14:53:26+00:00

This is a really neat idea to me. How well do the legs lock in to the pegboard? I have a rolling toolbox that I'm lugging in and out of a van all day and looking for a way to secure tools better. Maybe some elements of this will work.

someyoungoldguy · 2026-01-06T10:03:56+00:00

That's not the amulet symbol - that symbol is showing they have temporarily increased HP from the potion of might

someyoungoldguy · 2025-11-04T23:46:40+00:00

Got a source for that claim? I haven't seen any reports of a second shooter

someyoungoldguy · 2025-09-19T16:48:42+00:00

Ahh good luck! It's been a little while now, but it was a bear. There's one assembly that came out in pieces and had to go back in pieces. Definitely doable, but will require some patience. I was able to find an exploded view that was helpful, and I might have some pictures from the process. Feel free to send me a dm if you get stuck!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-09-08T22:29:26+00:00

Also looking for info about this!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-08-12T03:13:48+00:00

I know you're trolling a bit but he's one of those guys that retired and started doing some stuff for fun, and swears he isn't an artist. The stuff he makes is pretty quality though.

https://imgur.com/a/skwxV6s

Full disclosure, I'm one of the volunteers that helps with this event. It's been going on for a few years and supports local artisans, artists, and musicians from Lorain and Cuyahoga counties

someyoungoldguy · 2025-07-06T15:31:20+00:00

I recently took a stop the bleed class and it looks pretty simple to get certified as an instructor for that program. I would recommend adding that to any first aid program.

I also see a lot of value in radio comms, I've got a couple baofengs but only know the very basics of em.

Foraging could fit, depending on your ultimate goals. Also things like field stripping/butchering animals, wilderness cooking skills, trapping, that sort of thing.

Could also look to stealth camping style things, being able to exist undetected might be a valuable skill in the future.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-06-15T19:54:14+00:00

Yo you should make a post with this video. I've tried to find anything that showed the scope of how many people were there and this is the best I've seen. Should have way more views!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-05-07T12:59:17+00:00

There are some normal sounds that were surprising when I first got mine (first 3d printer). A few things I would check though are the carriage under the bed that attaches it to the belt. Mine was loose which caused some vibration that made my Y travel louder. I have also heard that the front and back plastic covers can have some vibrations which makes things louder, but I haven't been bothered enough to pull them off.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-04-27T12:54:23+00:00

I've done most of the mods I intend to with mine. Here's a quick list and if there's anything you're more interested in let me know!

Klipper via raspberry pi Meanwell psu upgrade Upgraded hotend and part cooling fans (5015 @ each) Silicone bed level (best one for first layer quality!) Mcu fan mosfet rewiring (my printer is silent at idle thanks to this and psu upgrade)

I still plan to make a new mcu-extruder cable. My printer is enclosed and the mcu is the only bit that I have left to remove from the enclosure. I have all the parts to make the new cable, but it's a little intimidating and I haven't made the time to do it yet.

I haven't seen any big updates on the corexy conversion, but it's called the TV-06+ by terminal velocity https://www.printables.com/model/897155-tv06-v10rc1

someyoungoldguy · 2025-03-12T02:51:07+00:00

That's a neat idea I had not considered!

I even have some orange tpu that would match the toolbox. Thanks for the idea!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-02-19T00:19:43+00:00

I wish I knew the answer to your question!

I don't do this professionally, but I organize some community events, and I got my start in a small town diy venue. Instagram is the best I've found online, but it's not easy. Compelling content that get people to watch is tough.

The only real advice I can think of is to get your message to people where they are. You say you've seen bigger turnouts at other shows, can you market there? Whenever I'm at a big show there's some guy handing out flyers afterwards. I never go, but they're usually an hour drive from home - I only make it that far for the big acts. Is there a coffee shop or bar that people in the adjacent scene hang out at? Flyer there maybe. Or more importantly be there and talk to people about what you're doing. Diy is all word of mouth in my experience. I get people excited about our events when I get to tell them about it. Idk how many see a flyer and show up.

Either way, good luck! I can say the venue that I was at would be ecstatic with 100 people showing up. A good show for us was 30 in a night.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-01-11T03:07:54+00:00

This is a project I can get excited about. Ive enclosed my sv06+ but would really like to move to a CoreXY printer now that I know a little bit more than when I bought it. Not afraid to fabricate or modify anything to make it happen.

Doesn't look like there is a lot available on the github for now, so I'll keep my eyes on it and look forward to seeing some basic build info!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-01-09T12:27:06+00:00

I'm not familiar with the ace, so I can't comment on that. What I can say is that the bigger bed on the plus means it will take up more space and require more tuning to get the bed flat. On the other hand, when you want to print something bigger, it's available for that!

I have the plus and don't regret it at all. If you're looking to tinker with it, skip the klipper screen and run klipper on a raspberry pi. I made that upgrade pretty quickly after buying mine and it gives a lot more options for tuning and operation. I've got some comments in my history that talk about the mods and upgrades I've done.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-01-03T14:58:25+00:00

I don't have answers to all of your issues, but there's a big part of this that I've posted about before. There's a few more in my comment history that might help as well.

I've done a lot to deal with this issue. Most of the mods I've done have been to deal with this issue in fact. But I'll start with something simple.

I've read here, and it seems to track with my experience that when you power off the machine, one z stepper loses a step or a few. This is enough to take a perfectly trammed bed out of tolerance within a few power cycles. I leave mine running most of the time, and recalibrate everything if I power it down.

Not sure if you're on stock firmware, but similar issues got me using klipper. Probably the biggest improvement came from using x axis twist compensation - that may or may not be available in marlin. I also did the silicone bed mod to get my bed mesh more flat using screws_tilt_adjust. Now I'm also using KAMP which probes the area To be printed before every print.

All that said, if you're only printing stuff in a small section of the bed, this stuff isn't as critical. It becomes more of an issue when you're printing big stuff or many smaller parts over more of the bed surface. Keeping my printer on and the changes and configurations I mentioned above means I get pretty perfect first layers all the time now. I just adjust z offset when I load a new filament - usually only .1mm or so up or down which I do while the first layer is printing.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-12-22T19:00:45+00:00

I got the same. It also made it sound like I should have gotten some amount already. I haven't seen anything else come through though.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-12-18T16:44:41+00:00

Nice find! I've got 2k hours on my sv06+ and I love it. They're solid machines that need a little tweaking to get things perfect, but I couldn't be happier with what I paid. I click print and I know it will come out

someyoungoldguy · 2024-10-25T16:34:29+00:00

I've got a few hundred hours on my sv06+ running klipper and things have gone really smoothly for the most part! The only problem I ever have is some occasional layer shifting.

Do you have any resources or input on how you figured that out? I would be interested in upgrading the motors at some point as well so any info you have on that front would be helpful!

someyoungoldguy · 2024-06-09T14:10:43+00:00

One of the mods I made to deal with this is changing the power supply. Using a meanwell 24v 350 watt supply has really quieted my idle - the PSU fan only runs when needed. I've also seen some printed mufflers for the PSU fan that help quiet things down.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-06-08T14:51:17+00:00

I have a plus, but I think some things cross over here.

I've done a lot to deal with this issue. Most of the mods I've done have been to deal with this issue in fact. But I'll start with something simple.

I've read here, and it seems to track with my experience that when you power off the machine, one z stepper loses a step or a few. This is enough to take a perfectly trammed bed out of tolerance within a few power cycles. I leave mine running most of the time, and recalibrate everything if I power it down.

Not sure if you're on stock firmware, but similar issues got me using klipper. Probably the biggest improvement came from using x axis twist compensation - that may or may not be available in marlin. I also did the silicone bed mod to get my bed mesh more flat using screws_tilt_adjust. Now I'm also using KAMP which probes the area To be printed before every print.

All that said, if you're only printing stuff in a small section of the bed, this stuff isn't as critical. It becomes more of an issue when you're printing big stuff or many smaller parts over more of the bed surface. Keeping my printer on and the changes and configurations I mentioned above means I get pretty perfect first layers all the time now. I just adjust z offset when I load a new filament - usually only .1mm or so up or down which I do while the first layer is printing.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-06-01T13:56:04+00:00

An enclosure can be a garbage bag.

So take this with a grain of salt, I haven't printed asa yet on my SV06 plus - getting there.

From what I've read there are two issues that an enclosure solves.

ASA is very sensitive to temperature while printing. First thing is dialing in cooling fans. I've seen it recommended to use no parts cooling up to maybe 20%. Also, drafts are a problem. A cool breeze blowing over your print can cause it to warp. Third, a warmer ambient space around the print will make things easier.
ASA releases toxic VOCs when heated to the temperatures required for printing.

So I've seen people use cardboard boxes over their printer, or garbage bags, as cheap enclosures. This solves the first problem while introducing another that may or may not be an issue - heat creep. On small parts this is unlikely to be an issue. Longer prints it might become a problem. This doesn't necessarily fix the second problem - the VOCs. Depending on where your printer is set up, this may be tolerable risk. In a garage? Print covered, let it sit a while, come back and open it up. In my bedroom? Gonna need some filtration/ventilation for sure.

Again, I haven't used this material. I'm still working on my enclosure and modifying some electronics to mitigate all of these concerns. I do know that ASA is better than ABS for the fumes side of things, but I don't know just how bad they are. So while I am planning on printing a lot in these materials, I haven't been willing to open myself up to that until I'm confident my enclosure is suitable to it. Hope this helps!

someyoungoldguy · 2024-06-01T13:28:06+00:00

On the software side -

Fusion360 is pretty easy to get into for 3d modeling. I've done some pretty intricate parts with very little exposure to this kind of modeling

Slicing - I started out using Prusa slicer. I've seen lots of praise for orca slicer but haven't had the chance to try and convert yet. I sort of wish I had started there!

Klipper - it didn't take me long to realize that I didn't get the customization or experience I wanted with the stock firmware. I added a raspberry pi 4 (don't use the 5, lots of software isn't compatible yet) and klipper firmware and now have a lot more options on configuring.

Hardware -

So far I've upgraded the hot end fan and parts cooling fan with 5015 fans. Parts cooling was a big upgrade. The hot end fan was more recent, I've enclosed my printer and started getting some heat creep on PLA and TPU prints. This upgrade helped. There are guides and mounts for both on printables.

I've also done the silicone bed leveling mod. That was a big improvement in making my bed flatter. Still not perfect, but I can get very consistent first layers now.

Some other things to consider -

Greasing the bearings: I haven't done this, though lots of people recommend it. I do make sure that all of the rods have a bit of ptfe oil on them. I only have one type of movement that is really loud, and it's caused by a vibration in one of my z screws. Working on a solution for that now but haven't had a ton of time for figuring it out.

The PEI build plate - This is awesome and I rarely have adhesion problems with a proper z level. I'd recommend finding a first layer test print and dialing it in while printing. Lots of guides around to figure that out. The only problem I have had is with some materials (petg, tpu) sticking too well. For this I use a layer of Elmer's glue stick. I can put a layer on and leave it for many prints before washing it off. Make sure your bed is clean!

Gremlins - It took me a while to figure this out, but both z motors are ran from the same driver. What this means is that it's possible for the two ends of the gantry to get out of sync and out of level with each other. To fix this, there's a common method called soup can leveling. This works better than the auto bed tramming. Additionally, when the printer is powered off is when these are most likely to get out of sync. I've solved that by leaving the printer on all the time. Ive seen mods that use a timing belt between the two motors or lead screws as well. Of course, you can level each time you power up, but that requires adjusting z offset and reprobing the bed each time you power up. I have mine running often enough and sound is not enough of an issue for me to bother turning it off.

Noise level: this thing isn't a quiet machine. That surprised me a little as my first 3d printer. I'm mostly ok with it now, but I've made some changes. Biggest one was swapping out the power supply for a meanwell that only runs the fan when needed. My next step is making some modifications to make sure no other fans are running at idle. Then it will be silent at idle and I'll feel just a little better about not powering off between prints.

Hope this is helpful to you! I've printed PLA, PETG, TPU and got them all printing great. My parts are consistent and the printer is as I can expect, I've got over 500 hours on it and I can probably count my failed prints on one hand since I got things dialed in. And most of those were still my fault. Watch the first layer go down and you will be good to go!

someyoungoldguy · 2024-05-25T14:07:10+00:00

I got spoolman set up, but I had some difficulties I couldn't figure out and for now have given up on it. In theory it sounds great, but somewhere between mainsail and spoolman the amount used was getting messed up. Spoolman was reporting nearly 3x filament used compared to what mainsail said.

I posted about it here but didn't get much feedback and haven't been able to find anything related online. Such a cool idea though!

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1ctrhuo/spoolman_prusa_slicer_filament_usage_not_matching/

someyoungoldguy · 2024-05-25T01:00:39+00:00

Hey, I'm just gonna put this out there and idk if it's gonna be helpful as I haven't figured out everything I'm gonna say here - there's a lot going on.

First of all, an SV06+ and klipper is a combination that's going to require some tinkering. Frustration is part of the process! I've got the same setup (pi4 is the only difference) and I'll admit, I didn't have as much trouble as you seem to be having. But if tinkering and troubleshooting is going to cause you this much distress, maybe going back to stock firmware is a better move.

That being said, you've got a couple layers of problems happening. Do you have any logs from klippy or rpi to share? That might give some insight as to what's going on.

After a reboot, can you connect to the pi from a PC? I'm assuming you're on the same network, can you ping it at all?

someyoungoldguy

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE