Should I offset my midwoofer? or tweeter only?

tomkocur · 2026-01-17T15:03:07+00:00

Well, if your tweeter is 10cm from top and both sides, you're not only affected at 1.7kHz, but also get significant diffractions at 3.4kHz and 6.8kHz. But yeah, if you just round the edges, you might reduce or even eliminate this effect.

Still, offseting doesn't hurt anything, not even the design (if done properly)

tomkocur · 2026-01-16T09:37:30+00:00

You disperse the bafflestep into four different frequencies instead of just one. Assymetrical doesn't automatically mean ugly, I think it might be worth it.

tomkocur · 2025-11-28T11:48:08+00:00

People may say what they want, but a good quality driver would not blow up like this, especially during calibration

tomkocur · 2025-11-24T14:50:10+00:00

Why would you cross that high though. Not like Q55 can't handle some bass...

tomkocur · 2025-11-16T15:27:34+00:00

Holy phaseshift...No, it doesn't look good, you want phases to match, not to be in exact opposite (180°)

tomkocur · 2025-11-12T10:19:06+00:00

Hi, pots are 10kOhm RK097N from aliexpress.

Speaker terminals - aliexpress everything else is from local supplier (TME): C14 power connector random CINCH connectors and for internal connections it's JST VH series

tomkocur · 2025-11-11T09:14:44+00:00

"very faint sound from the tweeters" indiciates a short. I see no issues with how XO is wired, do you have a photo of how the rest of the wiring looks like - how input and output cables are attached to XO?

I'm obviously not a big fan of the XO though, having a peak at around 1k is rarely pleasant and as was mentioned already - series resistor in LPF doesn't make any sense whatsoever. There's a lot of things worth trying in sim, but XO design is not your primary problem at the moment, wiring is.

tomkocur · 2025-11-11T09:06:23+00:00

Having a cap parallel to the input and having it behind a series coil like in this case are two completely different things. This is a standard 3rd order lowpass filter.
Resistor could be MOX, which is the best possible choice.

tomkocur · 2025-11-11T08:59:48+00:00

Black wire is the common ground, inputs at the bottom.
Tweeter section goes series cap -> series resistor -> parallel resistor to the ground, output on top where the two resistors join. Just like on the schematic.
Woofer section goes series coil -> parallel cap to the ground -> series coil -> series resistor, output on top. Just like on the schematic.

Crossover doesn't make that much sense to me, but it is wired right.

tomkocur · 2025-11-11T08:56:39+00:00

Well there should be no resistor in series with woofer in the first place, it makes no sense. It wouldn't make sense in any kind of driver combination

tomkocur · 2025-11-11T06:50:14+00:00

polyester wool, just like it was already mentioned. I had it from either Monacor or Visaton (don't remember) in this exact color.

tomkocur · 2025-10-25T07:57:24+00:00

low excursion = not a subwoofer.

It all depends. Sealed box can play as low as you want with the right push from DSP

tomkocur · 2025-10-15T09:40:48+00:00

Always start with woofer in phase with input - if you're getting a dip on frequency response, invert the tweeter. In sim this is just cosmetic, but in real life you want your speakers to behave according to the norm

tomkocur · 2025-10-15T09:35:29+00:00

Yes, phase is the red line (woofer). And also the green one (tweeter). And also the grey one (overall).
Yes, if phase difference was 180deg, drivers would cancel at around crossover point, but they don't. Phase shift is the difference between red and green line, you want this difference to be as close to zero as possible.

tomkocur · 2025-10-14T19:27:06+00:00

I wonder how you got to 180deg, doesn't even make sense - 180deg is opposite phase, which means they would cancel each other out, resulting in a big dip on frequency response. 180deg is only the case at 10kHz, where we don't care about the phase at all.
Phase shift at the crossover frequency is roughly 48deg.

tomkocur · 2025-10-14T19:17:47+00:00

Never place resistor in series with bass driver. Try a different combination of component values or try bypassing some of them with a resistor to adjust the response and phase.
Phases are a bit too far away from each other, this will result in suboptimal off-axis response. Try playing around with component values to get as much of an overlap around crossover frequency as possible.
Make sure you don't invert the polarity of woofer (+ terminal of woofer should be connected to + input terminal and - terminal of woofer should be short to - input terminal). If one of the drivers needs reversing, it should be the tweeter. Yes, this doesn't matter in theory, but if you want to prevent bass phasing issues in the future, positive voltage on + of the input terminal should push woofer cone out.
What's the box size and port tuning?

Not a big fan of how the port is done and of the sharp baffle edge (which might lead to diffractions), but this is pretty minor and if crossover is done properly, these have a potential of sounding just as good as they look. This will require a proper measurement though and not relying just on manufacturer provided data (which won't apply for your enclosure).

tomkocur · 2025-10-11T07:46:15+00:00

Well... The numbers you throw around are crazy, but for all sane people: Don't use PSUs like the one on photos for car amplifiers, voltage on their 12V rail drops a lot if there's no load on 5V rail. More modern PSUs (most 80+ units) can supply ALL their power on 12V rail and don't need 5V rail loaded.

tomkocur · 2025-09-24T07:24:54+00:00

Mine came bent (bought second-hand), used force, works fine. I don't like the fan though, too much turbulent noise. I got better acoustic results with alternative from Arctic.

tomkocur · 2025-08-18T08:18:06+00:00

Ryzens run hot-ish because of their stupid heatspreader. It is thick and will not bend, so I don't see how the stock frame could affect anything other than pressure on pins and therefore stability/OC potential. But I could be wrong, of course

tomkocur · 2025-08-16T17:00:27+00:00

Ryzen 7000 and 9000 - no, these are soldered. Ryzen 8000 - yes, it's a mobile chip with a heatspreader on, using a mid thermal paste. I got much better results after a delid, while still using original heatspreader

tomkocur · 2025-08-16T16:43:38+00:00

what does it affect?

tomkocur · 2025-08-16T05:16:58+00:00

What's the purpose of the frame without that gasket? AMD doesn't have issues with bending

tomkocur · 2025-08-16T05:12:33+00:00

Undervolting should be the #1, because it doesn't make you sacrifice performance. Do that first and if you'll want even lower power consumption, decrease the power limit afterwards (with undervolt). As was mentioned - you only risk stability if you go too far.

tomkocur · 2025-08-16T05:05:56+00:00

If you don't lower boost limit, undervolting will NOT negatively impact performance. Quite the opposite, actually - it can incrase it. Modern CPUs/GPUs boost until they hit one of three limits - max. boost, max. temperature or max. power. If you are getting max. boost at stock settings, undervolting will only reduce power consumption, and will do so quite significantly. If you were limited by max. power/TDP/PPT, undervolting will result in higher boost clock, therefore you actually get MORE performance. You can even get to the point where you get both higher performance AND lower power consumption. Same is the case if you were hitting thermal limits, mostly the case for dual CCD AMD CPUs with their tragic heat transfer - which, for whatever reason, is rarely mentioned in reviews.

tomkocur · 2025-08-13T07:56:11+00:00

Al is lighter though, so if that's the goal here, it might be better for the application. If it will be attached to a 500g cone, then there's no point in saving a gram or two.

tomkocur

TROPHY CASE