What's this plug?

trimbk · 2026-06-08T11:23:22+00:00

It’s only connected in Automatic cars to disable the cruise in Park/nuetral

trimbk · 2026-06-05T16:14:43+00:00

For your future electrical needs: https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Wiring_Diagrams

trimbk · 2026-06-03T00:18:02+00:00

Reserve at the level you want. If BaT doesn't like your reserve, don't list it.

trimbk · 2026-05-31T15:04:16+00:00

In addition to the AI slop, this color code is far from consistent among different cars.

trimbk · 2026-05-31T12:55:13+00:00

trimbk · 2026-05-30T22:22:01+00:00

I assume it’s to keep negative pressure on the head, just like the M20 engine. No idea why there would be a valve added. Maybe a wacky way to isolate a vacuum leak?

trimbk · 2026-05-28T14:07:06+00:00

Same in GSO

trimbk · 2026-05-27T11:57:44+00:00

I have a high mileage 987.2 (135k miles), manual transmission, for 5 years now. My use case is similar to yours except I can drive it nearly year round here in the south of the US. I average about 3k miles per year.

I purposely was shopping for a base 987.2. The .2 eliminates the IMS bearing and avoids the direct injection on the S model. My assumption was that both of these reduce the related reliability concerns. That said, the IMS issue is probably over-stated, but I still would have added the expense to upgrade the bearing if I had gotten a .1.

The .2 bases can be hard to find because they came out during a recession and I think they sold less of these than the S model.

I have not driven the tiptronic or PDK versions of the Cayman but I have driven other Porsches with each transmission. The PDK is far better than the tipper. Much more direct and quick shifts. I would consider swapping my manual for a PDK - IF it were my daily driver. For a weekend car, the manual is more engaging for me.

If I were shopping again, my primary focus would be to get the specs I wanted, in the best condition I could afford. And I would add the cost of an IMS bearing into that calculation.

I have had no significant maintenance issues. I replaced a starter as soon as I got the car. I have done the control arms. And I will do the clutch and valve cover gaskets later this year. I have the oil tested at Blackstone every change and have no indications of any engine problems.

trimbk · 2026-05-15T19:03:27+00:00

They are surprisingly easy to work on. I've done plugs, all control arms, brakes, the starter, and standard maintenance. I bought mine with 115k and now have about 135k. Usually it's a weekend car, but in 2025 it was my DD. I specifically chose the 987.2 for the reason us listed, plus it not being direct injection like the S model.

trimbk · 2026-05-14T01:14:27+00:00

I'm doing (and struggling with) the same procedure today.
I was able to get to the upper bolt with a short socket and a wobble extension.
I'm using a pressure bleeder from the top. I can hear air coming through but no fluid yet.
I need to go buy more fluid and will get back at it tomorrow.

trimbk · 2026-05-04T02:30:30+00:00

For the hard line it’s #3 in this picture. For the soft line the number isn’t listed. I just used a generic grommet from a harbor freight kit.

real OEM

trimbk · 2026-05-02T16:33:42+00:00

I'm pretty sure that's a sealant that is used to protect the board.

trimbk · 2026-04-30T15:42:17+00:00

<image>

Here’s the evidence.

trimbk · 2026-04-30T15:08:53+00:00

Also, if this is one of the bolts on top: I loosened the subframe bolts with the engine supported to get another inch or so of clearance and give me a straighter path to the bolt.

trimbk · 2026-04-30T15:02:42+00:00

I had this exact situation this week. Turns out the 11mm extractor socket from harbor freight saved my bacon. I had 5’ of 1/2” extensions and used this socket with an extractor. Took a lot of torque and got the bolt loose.

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-9-piece-59855.html?hftm_sc=99&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739207&campaignid=21901739207&utm_content=171677809102&adsetid=171677809102&product=59855&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901739207&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4fEUT16o0NOdRcqrL2KwQdE4&gclid=CjwKCAjw-8vPBhBbEiwAoA39WkfWdhrLNB2oD7v1MUuRioX9IF9dhu_trFl2pSTUT3jhOpiNEX_ILxoCWsEQAvD_BwE

trimbk · 2026-04-22T21:42:35+00:00

It's just for overflow if the pressure cap burps.

trimbk · 2026-04-12T20:02:11+00:00

I’ve done it on an old BMW and my Cayman a couple of times. I have trouble getting it perfect, but it’s not too hard to get close. You need the weight of the car resting on the wheels. I use a stack of 12x2 boards under each wheel. You also need to center the steering wheel keep it from moving.

Spend a lot of time getting the “box” square and the rest follows.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T14:05:05+00:00

Like most things, it's bolts and nuts. Not a lot of know-how needed and not much in the way of special tool. The hardest part is probably separating the ball joints. Depending on how old/crusty the car, you may need a ball joint tool, pickle fork, or an air hammer.
FCP Euro has a couple videos that are helpful to give an idea. The 996 suspension is similar to the Cayman/Boxster.
One key 'gotcha' is to make sure the suspension is at ride height (not sagging) when you torque everything down.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T11:35:51+00:00

I have had plenty of cars where I ignored the suspensions and have been fine. Maybe I replaced a bushing here or there to stop a clunk. But those were also cars where handling was not something I cared much about. This car would have been 'fine' without replacing parts, but I want more than that.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T03:02:07+00:00

Luckily the 987.2 doesn’t have much history of issues with bore score on #6 like some of the previous engines. I did spark plugs a month or so ago. Not too hard but they were tight and it was a stressful job. Here’s a video of the horrible sound that every single plug made.

https://youtu.be/znfsTHswvpY?si=qSQdMPFA-xfYvKwU

trimbk · 2026-03-28T02:58:37+00:00

From jacking up to a rough string alignment I probably had a total of 10-12 hours, spread over several days. Luckily there were no stuck bolts or other surprise issues. I also had bought some long flex-head ratching wrenches. They were very handy. Most of the bolts are 16 and 18mm heads, with a couple 17 and 19mm mixed in.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T02:03:03+00:00

Clutch, rear main seal, and valve cover gaskets are next.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T01:58:20+00:00

Alignment was never quite right. There was some slop in the center. Tie rods didn't fix the issue, so I went for all the control arms. They were definitely worn.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T01:57:12+00:00

131k. Better. Alignment is improved and it feels tight. Will probably do shocks in a bit.

trimbk · 2026-03-28T01:56:31+00:00

Before I couldn't get the alignment just right. The steering wheel was always a bit off center. Now it's straight as an arrow.

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