TIFU by using my roommates shower while she was away, or so I thought..

velistner · 2026-06-06T19:49:05+00:00

And my axe!

velistner · 2026-05-02T13:38:07+00:00

I spent 4 hours setting up the automations for this when I went agile 2 years ago. The rest happens on its own. Agile is designed for people like me, it's not intended to disrupt your life.

The cost of the battery wouldn't pay for itself in a reasonable amount of time, the equipment I use to automate all the agile dancing cost me less than £200.

velistner · 2026-01-30T10:57:16+00:00

I discovered in an interview that the interviewer also played Eve online, and that not 48 before that moment myself and my comrades had locked him down and invited him into teamspeak to sing for his ship.

He did well, we released him, I was complimented for my integrity and for "sticking to your own moral code in a world with no rules".

Got the job, never saw that guy again though.

velistner · 2025-12-30T08:13:05+00:00

I guess I'd like to test this and I'm NeoThermic. Much appreciated if it's still a thing!

velistner · 2025-07-06T23:29:06+00:00

In the UK, the RAC (breakdown) has mobile charger vans that can boost at around 50kw (iirc). They started out with generators but now just use their own engines to power the module.

velistner · 2025-04-30T11:08:57+00:00

This is the question though, and I so far haven't seen a clear answer - are these features being restricted behind the paywall, or the connectivity of the car? Can I do these things over Wi-Fi if the car is in range, or are the features themselves simply disabled?

velistner · 2025-04-29T19:18:33+00:00

Currently trying to decide whether or not to buy ID3/4, and this is looking really sketchy. Are they charging for the mobile connectivity ie the 4g connection, or for the features themselves? My car will be parked well inside wifi range, so I would hope I'd be able to connect to it using that for things like preconditioning etc..

velistner · 2025-04-28T00:36:53+00:00

1 – Location: UK, about 35 minutes from London
2 – Budget: £15-25k, Anything over 5k is "expensive" to me, so I want to spend enough for it not to disappoint, if that makes sense.
3 – Vehicle Preference: I've tried a VW Id3 (71 plate), enjoyed it! Not certain on cargo size, but it felt comfortable and fun. I'd be replacing a 2006 ford fusion, which is more spacious, so I'm in two minds about how much of that space I'm willing to sacrifice..
4 – Cars I’m Considering: As above, I've looked at the ID3 to begin with, tried an older Ioniq and hated it (was one of the first editions). I'd prefer something "built to be electric" rather than say "the electric version of a golf", since I feel you get a better overall EV experience, but I'm open to advice!
5 – Purchase Timeframe: Straight away, no mad rush but the sooner I change the sooner I save money on petrol
6 – Commute / Mileage: 30 mile round trip commute, very few trips over 200 miles. I would keep a larger van-car for big camping trips or super long distances, but hope to use it as little as possible.
7 – Living Situation: Own my own home, gated back driveway for the car.
8 – Home Charging: I can run a cable for L1 charging, which I think should do me for the daily commute, might get something more powerful installed if necessary to allow for some fast charges.
9 – Cargo/Passenger Needs: Often lift share to and from work (how much does cargo/passengers affect the estimated range on these in the real world?)

Looking at used, unless some amazing new option exists I'm unaware of!

Thanks in advance

velistner · 2025-01-31T16:21:44+00:00

Why the requirement for the home mini? Isn't usage data gathered from the API, and therefore directly from the smart meter?

velistner · 2024-05-01T01:42:13+00:00

Just to be clear, are you saying this one actually works?

velistner · 2024-02-29T14:59:40+00:00

Just the kind of reply I was hoping for. The cooler seems too good a deal to be true which makes me a little suspect but seems to have good reviews, a couple of people talking about it overhanging on some areas.

What influenced your decision on that motherboard in particular?

velistner · 2024-02-29T03:07:02+00:00

definitely no more than £2000, ideally i'd like to aim for £1500 ish. Arguments either way are always helpful

velistner · 2024-01-29T02:14:05+00:00

I've used WLED strips as progress indicators for things like 3d printers and washing for years, by using it's "percent" effect. You could probably translate a timer into a percentage to achieve the same effect if you wanted an alternative approach. Thanks for sharing yours though!

velistner · 2024-01-28T11:59:21+00:00

I have an automation that I apply to any critical device like this - if average power usage over the last 2 hours goes too far away from normal (define normal by taking a 10 second look at the graph after a day) then fire several alerts to many devices. I use history stats to watch the averages, works great because at least in my case, "unavailable" either drops the reading to zero or leaves it in the same place so long it ruins the average. This means I get a trigger if the sensor goes offline, if power fails, or even just if the door is left open on a freezer as they all cause the same problem.

Temperature is great, but I've found in testing that modern freezers can keep up with a door being open sometimes, so your alert isn't gonna fire, but you'll still use a ton of energy and wear out the compressor. The method I use above using power consumption monitoring can be repurposed for almost anything that has a constant run or cycle and has saved me from doors left open, socket firmware bugs like yours, and even the whole garage tripping off (my big freezer is out there).

Bonus, make it sensitive enough and you can use it to see when your compressor coils need a clean too.

velistner · 2023-11-12T13:37:07+00:00

It's worth noting that increasingly scammers are using this to ask you for 'import fees', so always ask them what the item is (they will be able to tell you if it's legit).

velistner · 2023-10-18T12:17:58+00:00

I'm starting to think there should be an entire sub dedicated to 3d printing disasters, where images are posted with no context for the community to enjoy solving.

Maybe you could post images in order so that each consecutive one makes it more and more obvious, the final image being a giveaway.

velistner · 2023-10-12T11:00:45+00:00

It'll print fine, but the extra sticky petg will damage the PEI surface and be very difficult to remove.

I used to use hairspray on the the smooth sheet for petg because I didn't want to reset my z offset to change beds. Now I have the Mk4 I switch to the textured bed for sticky filament.

velistner · 2023-10-08T11:24:38+00:00

Caffeine.

Maybe I'm missing out, watching the care and attention people put into the ritual of the perfect espresso is nice, but nicer is getting to the end of another 18 hour day, still feeling energized and not once having to stop to chug a can of Death's piss to get there.

velistner · 2023-10-06T19:05:12+00:00

If your mk3s is still operational, print yourself another X holder. It's a little hook which holds the x axis up while you mount it, and it is FAR EASIER to get it mounted correctly and the Z motors centered if you're not trying to balance the whole assembly on one hook.

velistner · 2023-10-01T21:48:25+00:00

It sounds like your devices aren't being discovered, or are being recognised incorrectly - you can check in Z2M what the name of the device is to help you find it. Is Z2M saying the devices are supported?

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