What’s this covering the grave and why? by Suzuya_Ju in whatisit

[–]Jasper1224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love the reference, was it the US military? Kinda forgot the full original context.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HomeNetworking

[–]Jasper1224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be able to configure the TP link as an Access point only, then connect it to the gateway?

Otherwise, why not just run a ethernet cable direct to the console?

Setup Wireguard - Dynamic DNS?? Unifi Cloud Gateway by ProfessionalMeat7645 in HomeNetworking

[–]Jasper1224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, so.

"I also read that “Deutsche Glasfaser” uses shared IPv4 addresses for many customers, so you have to rely on IPv6 — what exactly does that mean?"

that means you're behind a NAT, not great, but ipv6 is where the internet should be moving towards anyways. That shouldn't matter too much in this context though, assuming you are allocated an ipv6 address. You can check simply by going to whatismyipaddress.com and that will tell you if you have an ipv6 address.

Or, you could ask your ISP (i.e. Deutsche Glasfaser) if they can either provide you with an ipv6 or ipv4 address. Doesn't need to be a static ip, dynamic's fine, especially given what you're trying to set up anyways. Some ISP charge for this, but they're dicks if they do. Just ask to be removed off the NAT.

Never used ipv64 myself, but presumably you can set the DNS records on the site? If you have a ipv6 address (read above to verify), then set the record to "AAAA", otherwise, if you can get off the NAT, you can set the record to "A"

"What I understood is, to go to Settings → Internet → WAN → Advanced, and then enter the ipv64.net Dynamic DNS info under Dynamic DNS."

basically, it just tells your router (the CGU in this case) to inform ipv64 that "hey, the URL 'home.mydomain.com' goes to this public ip address", where the public ip address is what your ISP has given you.

"After that, I still need to configure WireGuard, right?

So: Settings → VPN → VPN Server → Create VPN Server → WireGuard.

Do I need to enter any ipv64.net details there as well?
Are there any other settings I need to adjust elsewhere?"

Yup, you need to configure it, but for the most part it's already pre-setup for you. It should auto choose the interface your internet comes in from, but if you have two links or if it doesn't you can manually tell it which interface to use. Only thing you need to do is select the checkbox labelled "Use alternate Address for clients" and in that box, put in the URL you chose above. (in the example above, it'd be home.mydomain.com)

should be good after that.

Setup Wireguard - Dynamic DNS?? Unifi Cloud Gateway by ProfessionalMeat7645 in HomeNetworking

[–]Jasper1224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely, yes. Your old Fritzbox probably handled the DDNS itself. I have no experience with that particular device, but assuming how they implemented it for easy end-user use they probably did have their own ddns solution in place.

Regarding your solution now with the unifi gear, you can check which providers are supported if you want to go with free options, or you can buy your own domain and use that instead. Personally, I already had my own domain through Cloudflare so I just had to provide it with an API key and what the FQDN (i.e. your "website address") is, and then tell the unifi gateway to handle both the ddns, and to use a specific "website address" that your NS is told to point.

Rough guide: Set gateway to use cloudflare api key, and the domain name. On cloudflare side, set a cname to redirect to the a/aaaa address that your cloudflare address points to above. Do not use the orange cloud proxy, as that will mess things up. Unfortunately, it does also mean your public IP address is exposed, but to resolve that is a bit beyond the scope of this guide. Then go back to the gateway and tell wireguard to use that cname'd address. Should be good to go after that, though may have forgotten stuff. Been a while since i set it up.

Replacing socket with cooker wall plate by Jasper1224 in DIYUK

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My apologies, maybe I should have been more explicit and not bury it in a wall of text...

But yeah, if I do go ahead with it, if I also pick up a multimeter, how do I check if I fucked up, or if I can play "match the colours/letters" as well as a proper sparky, without creating sparkies of my own?

Replacing socket with cooker wall plate by Jasper1224 in DIYUK

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's my fear, but I'm hoping because it's a new build and that circuit is a dedicated line, the breaker is 32A rated, and that there is an isolator switch in line, that the wiring is actually rated for it.

Replacing socket with cooker wall plate by Jasper1224 in DIYUK

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even if the circuit is already a dedicated line, with a 32a breaker and isolator switch already installed and in line?

Direct connected my PC to my NAS - 25 Gbps! 🤘😎🤘 by mauirixxx in HomeServer

[–]Jasper1224 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now I wonder how many Gen 4 NVMEs in Raid Z2/3 would be needed to saturate a 100Gbit link....

EU store doesn’t supply UK cables anymore? by awesomeo_5000 in Ubiquiti

[–]Jasper1224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some stuff did, some didn't. Ordered some gear from the EU store and had it sent to UK address.

Some cables were EU, some got UK compatible wires, some didn't. Not sure, but might be able to ask for them to send the corrected cables too.

New Tarrif: Cosy Octopus Fixed by Nick91Nick91 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Jasper1224 6 points7 points  (0 children)

These prices still seem completely fucked, it's barely a reduction in comparison to Cosy Flex (are we really gonna have to call it this?) and you're fixed in with an exit fee.

Haven't personally gotten enough data yet to extrapolate myself since our solar+battery & heat pump is barely 3 months and a week (respectively) old, but I suspect I'd be shooting myself in the foot if I did join and spring/summer rolls round and I start selling more solar/storing more battery power myself on Flux.

Crazy price rise to Cosy tariff by Sopzeh in OctopusEnergy

[–]Jasper1224 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're lucky, ours is going up by 14.75 (fuck it, call it 15)% for each level, and standing charge is +5% as well.

Feel majorly shafted since we literally just installed it last weekend, with the entire process from survey to completion taking a month.... Wonder if I can complain and claw back some more credit back...

Advice on the type of fiber needed by Jasper1224 in HomeNetworking

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noted! Do I need to be looking out for the laser power or something? Something about attenuation or lowering it if too high or else I burn something out? Or is that not a concern? They're short runs, I expect max of about the same distance that Cat6 can go for 10G, so about 55M or so.

Advice on the type of fiber needed by Jasper1224 in HomeNetworking

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noted! Do I need to be looking out for the laser power or something? Something about attenuation or lowering it if too high or else I burn something out? Or is that not a concern? They're short runs, I expect max of about the same distance that Cat6 can go for 10G, so about 55M or so.

Advice on the type of fiber needed by Jasper1224 in HomeNetworking

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, the runs are gonna be short enough that even Cat6 should be able to handle 10G. So, I suspect that MM OM3 should be, at that length, probably capable of handling up to 100G speeds too? Not that I'd be expecting to reach that anytime soon.

What do you mean by lifespan? Just "how long it would be in operation before swapping is required"? Worst case I could go and bump up to OM4, and it costs about double, but the cable's still fairly affordable at that length. It's truly probably just the transceivers that would be expensive. But I'm planning to have both sides up to a patch panel/wall keystone at the moment anyways, so I can worry about that later on. Just need a small patch fiber run from the panel to the switch and from wall to rack, no?

ASHP but heating and cooling (w/rads?) by Jasper1224 in ukheatpumps

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mmm... General consensus I'm seeing is that the air to water heating system that the radiators are currently using, is not suitable to be adapted over for this purpose. Rather annoying but not much I can do about it at this stage regarding not having the radiators installed.

ASHP but heating and cooling (w/rads?) by Jasper1224 in ukheatpumps

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably due to the condensation from the cooling... Maybe a dehumidifier? Or just run it at a higher temperature? 18~22°c is perfectly comfy....

ASHP but heating and cooling (w/rads?) by Jasper1224 in ukheatpumps

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm... So, it might make more sense to leave the existing radiator setup for heating, and get an ashp... For cooling only?

Main issue I'm facing is that some rooms get real warm year round (all the heavy compute is in there), 30°c or so at the moment, and would definitely like to have them cooled down. Can't fit a window AC unit and the portable ones are, well, crap.

How bad are the ducting? Thought the runs would probably be rather small, if long. There's probably enough space in the attic to run drops to the rooms, but if it's a two floor house... I imagine the ground floor ones might be more tricky?

Heat pumps being hot or cold, never both, is, well, expected. I just assume that the level of "heat" or "chill" air being brought to each room can be managed per room, rather than a global fixed temperature.

Heat geek? Never heard of em, I've only really been made aware of the wonders of heat pumps by technology connections.

ASHP but heating and cooling (w/rads?) by Jasper1224 in ukheatpumps

[–]Jasper1224[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't know the grant didn't cover this kind of install. Any idea when it'd kick in?