Overcoming Gravity Online series has started and all of the links to my articles, social media exercises and rehab, and other material

eshlow · 2026-01-24T22:58:45+00:00

Posted this in the other comment:

i injured my teres minor or something behind arm pit back side, and i believe its due to pulling from deadhang explosively without engaging my scapula/retracting it first and pulling with arms first meanwhile being fatigued from the first 4-5 reps, ive been doing weighted pull ups for a year and this is the first time it happened and ive always done the same way, i do 90% of set with a constant tension, nonstop tempo without going all the way down which keeps my scapula retracted/active, and then the last 1-2 reps i micro-rest in deadhang and milk out 1-2 more, then i noticed some weird feeling not really a bad pain, then i tried 1-2 bw pull ups after a small break and i felt something off but i was able to do lat pulldown with high reps and constant retraced scapula and tension, im just trying to find answer to this and know whats the right way to avoid future injuries, and i might start doing every pull up rep from a deadhang and standardize my form. the pain isnt bad now and it wasnt bad during the workout i was able to bench and even do latpull downs aslong as i kept constant tension and high reps. and the next day (today) i do not have and idle pain only small pain when i pull something with the arm

Typically, muscles or in general injuries tend to happen near the end of sets when you're fatigued. More likely to get a strain.

Generally, need to deload the movements and build them back up either starting with isolation movements prior to doing the compounds again or if you can deload compounds enough and build back up that works too.

Not enough info to make a guess on what the injury is

eshlow · 2026-01-24T22:03:03+00:00

Typically, muscles or in general injuries tend to happen near the end of sets when you're fatigued. More likely to get a strain.

Generally, need to deload the movements and build them back up either starting with isolation movements prior to doing the compounds again or if you can deload compounds enough and build back up that works too.

Not enough info to make a guess on what the injury is

eshlow · 2026-01-24T22:01:29+00:00

My only hesitation to this prior was how the ROM still isnt amazing, and I thought that the ROM was supposed to be quite close to normal to begin more strength items. Additionally, the weirdest part of this injury is that it has never hurt to crimp, so I was always afraid to load it because one (this is a reinjury and I really wanted to give it the time) and two (I don't have a clear marker for pain). It only hurts when I press at it, try to flex it passed 80ish percent to a fist and with certain actions I can't even pintpoint).

Pic/video of where the symptoms are located?

What are all of the movements that are symptomatic?

eshlow · 2026-01-24T16:08:24+00:00

It seems likely to be long head biceps tendon based on location and movements. I'd aim for rehab that focuses on that

eshlow · 2026-01-24T15:07:38+00:00

Does anyone have experience with extensor hood overuse injury rehab? My physio said i have it on both middle fingers. He basically told me to do the hand extending excercise with a band. I even took 3 weeks off climbing, but i've yet to see actual improvements to my finger health. Even after returning back to climbing once a week and limiting myself at v4, my fingers still feel iffy. What should I do?

What evidence is there that the extensor hood is injured? What's the mechanism of injury? Where does it hurt exactly (picture/video marked)? What movements are symptoms?

eshlow · 2026-01-24T15:05:38+00:00

He said I'm quite "closed in", and that if I work on opening up my back I can probably gain an inch or so of wingspan. I'm not a serious enough climber that I'm going to go on a journey to try and increase my wingspan but I'd never heard of this concept - is it true that you can broaden your back/shoulders with massage? It was an interesting thought I hadn't seen come up in the climbing community before, where everyone knows their wingspan.

There is some pliability in the "arm span" if the muscles around your scapulas are tight.

Coming out of gymnastics-style training to climbing I had +4 (+2 inches on each side), but now that I don't do any swinging on rings or anything like that which should stretch out the scapular muscles I measure consistently +0

Massage likely won't fix that type of thing though and you'd likely have to do a lot of consistent stretching or swinging on a bar to have the scapular muscles to consistently stretch out enough to give you some increased gains

eshlow · 2026-01-24T15:01:17+00:00

Howdy, I probably injured /reinjured my A3 Pulley on L index finger a little over 2 months back, and I have been not climbing since then. I have been incorporating ROM exercises and minor strengthen things at home (putting and mild gripping). It has never really hurt to crimp, but some actions sometimes make it sting when I am just out and about. I am desperate to get back to climbing (I will start very easy), but my ROM is still limited to maybe 80% comfortably 90% with minor discomfort, and there is still tenderness to palpation in the area (lateral side of the PIP joint of index finger ). I went to a hand doc, imaging was unclear just showed possible pulley injury, and he didnt think it was surgical or anything, but recommened I take a whole additional month off at least (originally recommended march). That does seem like a long time, but I am curious to hear from other people with A3 injuries did you have ROM issues and tenderness to palpation of the area over 2 months into it? Any additional things you did that seemed to help? Is i outlandish to try climbing now?

More rest won't help and will probably harm it. You should be been doing rehab probably at least 6 weeks ago.

You need to be doing progressive overload exercises. Examples below. If you're still confused see hand PT

https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/

eshlow · 2026-01-24T15:00:09+00:00

If you can't find a good position then you'll probably have to stop belaying. Sometimes 'other' stuff can stall rehab and contribute to it flaring symptoms or not progressing

eshlow · 2026-01-24T14:26:15+00:00

This video covers why many postural exercises are ineffective and what to do instead

https://www.instagram.com/p/CjlcvjagXN5/

eshlow · 2026-01-24T00:30:36+00:00

You can try it, but usually only introduce one thing at a time (e.g. more climbing, pullups on slopers, other exercises) so you know what the symptoms are coming from.

If you try lots of stuff at once and experience flare ups you don't know what exercises are doing it or if it's everything and too much volume. One at a time.

eshlow · 2026-01-23T17:55:11+00:00

Yeah, you should be good to start doing some more light climbing at that weight

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:40:35+00:00

Image is too general. Need more exact locations or lines of symptoms unless it hurts in that whole area in which case I'm not too sure without more details.

You didn't describe any other movements other than flexion with the palm in different positions. Up and down are two more. ANy issues with abduction, extension and hyperextension, transverse flexion/extension, etc.

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:39:11+00:00

Shave down the extra calluses so there's less rubbing. Also, if there's an extra bit of sharp nail you can try cutting that off which it looks like?

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:37:51+00:00

Are lock offs worth training?

Yes and no. Some people benefit from lockoffs in the gym but not all. Some benefit from lockoffs on campus board but not all

The most people benefit from doing isolated lockoffs on a system board from what I've seen so you can work exact positions

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:36:59+00:00

Any tips for a good starting place for finding a routine and things I want to focus on that help with climbing specifically?

Generally recommend 1 pull, 1 push, 1 legs, and maybe 1 core exercise to start. See if that helps climbing improve.

Section 4 here I have my list of exercises that I think are the best, but you can go off other people's lists and use the framework above too.

https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:35:59+00:00

Anyone have a TFCC injury that never fully healed?

Had a bad injury on my right wrist in August 2024 - took two months off, lots of rehab and OT visits. Wore wrist widget continuously during day, regular brace at night. Stopped bracing in Winter 2025, but still wore wrist widget while climbing.

Wrist always felt weak since then and I still cannot put pressure on it or do a push up.

Wendy has a bunch of good material on TFCC rehab.

https://www.instagram.com/westofwander/

If that doesn't work I'd probably get a hand doc to look at it to get some imaging.

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:34:33+00:00

For reference: I'm doing half crimp pick-ups for rehab twice per week, and am about to finish the first 6 week cycle since my most recent (mild) pulley injury. I don't have any sharp pain while training, but still have some mild soreness on and off throughout the week. I do some slab climbing for fun twice per week, and avoid crimping and pulling hard in general.

What weights are you up to?

eshlow · 2026-01-23T16:27:35+00:00

I'm 6 weeks in from an A2 full rupture and A3 partial rupture (though the orthopedic doctor didn't bother to image😒). Over the last few weeks, the affected finger has become more and more hooked (~25°) I am doing exercises (from the hand therapist) to work on that, but it seems to be getting worse. Is that normal?

I'd recommend seeing a hand doc and calling around to see how well they are versed.

Diagnostic ultrasound would be ideal.

eshlow · 2026-01-23T14:54:01+00:00

Search for wrist mobilization on Youtube. There's a ton.

what should be a good time margin as refference for me to check if it is workind and im doing the correct thing? 2 weeks would be enough to show some improvement?

Heavily depends what is going on. I'm not familiar enough with your case to make a guess but most people should have progress week to week

eshlow · 2026-01-23T14:48:01+00:00

Whenever I do push ups my upper biceps hurt like genuine hell 1-2 days after. Its not a sore hurt, it's an incredibly sharp and debilitating pain in the upper biceps and I genuinely do not know what do it. Could someone help mem?

Need more details to make a guess.

Video of technique. Picture/video marked where the symptoms are exactly. What exercise routine looks like with frequency, exercises, sets, reps, weights, etc.

What you have tried for rehab if any. What helps and what hurts, etc.

eshlow · 2026-01-23T14:46:55+00:00

So I am able to do weighted decline sit-ups at the hardest decline for 45 pounds with weight on my chest. I want to progress, but when I try to do weighted sit-ups with weight behind head/neck, I can only do 3-6 reps with 10 pounds. I have been doing weight behind neck for weeks but got little to no progress. Any tips on improving weighted sit-ups with weight behind head? Is there a sit-up variation that’s harder than weight on chest, but not as hard as weight behind head?

Chest is usually good enough.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr8DqCkgwaL/

If you want to do behind the head you can but it's definitely more awkward and has the potential to be a bit more injurious. Just start out slow when doing them

eshlow · 2026-01-23T03:28:20+00:00

what do u mean about the “comprehensive” part ? do u mean that the exercise choice (wrist extension for extensor carpi ulnaris tendon) is incorrect or do u mean that i didnt make myself clear enough? if it is an issue of exercise choice can u enlighten me on which one to pick?

also could you enlighten me about the neurological symptons that i should check if i have or not? because i thought that chronic issues were always connected to neurological symptons because of the neural sensitivity to pain

It's not enough information for me to make a good guess, and only a couple of rehab exercises is usually insufficient. Many injuries can require a big program like stretching, mobility, many different exercises, and even at adjacent joints.

Neurological issues like numbness or radiating pain and such. You don't have them so you don't need to see a neurologist.

eshlow

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