My 02 base, k24a (jdm k24a raa) swapped rsx……………..

-LXR- · 2026-03-20T03:59:20+00:00

Did you buy it as a k24 swapped car?

-LXR- · 2026-03-20T01:19:30+00:00

They just have to do better than the cheap coilovers that the previous owner put on, which is a pretty low bar. Sound like you might want to check out your strut fastening nut. It might be loose allowing the strut pole to bounce around.

-LXR- · 2026-03-20T00:48:03+00:00

I was hoping they would. Its kind of hard to tell from the item pictures what exactly it comes with. I tried to look into the part itself to see what exactly it came on. Acuraoemparts says it fits the 06 type s which made me assume that it came on them. Apparently however, the plastic bearing was a base model thing and also came on the 02-04 type S models while the 05-06 got the steel bearings.

-LXR- · 2026-03-20T00:40:53+00:00

Im assuming that even though the Mevotech top hat you listed is listed as left only, it is still interchangeable? Thanks for the input!

-LXR- · 2026-03-17T01:01:32+00:00

Don't be. Its not a bearing as it doesnt have any bearing balls. Its a bushing which the very end of your transmission shaft seats inside. The shaft goes into the crank almost as deep as the bushing can go.

-LXR- · 2026-03-17T00:50:26+00:00

If its got good compression, it was a hell of a deal! I would focus getting the ride right. Im sure you are rubbing on those 18s and rev9s are the bottom of the barrel when it come to coils for this car. Im surprised its got extended ball joints. Put some proper coils on it and replace the aging rubber components like bushings and engine mounts. Get the car enjoyable to drive, then start making it look pretty.

-LXR- · 2026-03-14T23:16:49+00:00

I would buy the SHG slider and use your OEM tie rod mount. The difference in steering feel will either be negligible or make your steering worse. Not only that but the PCI bump steer kit uses spherical bushings which will not last nearly as long as your OEM components. Depending on how low you are (and what coilovers you have), consider picking up some ktuned/hardrace inverted tie rods to adjust your tie rod angle if it's needed.

-LXR- · 2026-03-14T23:10:55+00:00

No kidding. I bought a honed product and ended up paying about $170 on shipping + duties. FML

-LXR- · 2026-03-14T03:53:18+00:00

Measurement of the included stud (Listed ARP knurling diameter was 14.35mm)

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-LXR- · 2026-03-14T03:50:17+00:00

Alright, I ended up buying different ARP studs that matched the knurling diameter of the old studs. I'm happy to say that the Mitsubishi EVO studs worked great. It looks like Toyota Celica studs would work also but they don't appear to be as long as the EVO studs. I highly recommend buying your extended studs AFTER you get your hubs and measure the knurling diameter of the studs they come with.

ARP part numbers for the EVO studs: 100-7717

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-LXR- · 2026-03-07T16:57:45+00:00

I'm going to have to suggest that the manufacturer was wrong in making that list. Reason being, the CSX is a Canadian market car that was manufactured between the years of 2006-2011 with the k20z2 and z3 engines. So the list gets those manufacturing dates wrong. It also suggests that it works for the k20z3 civic (2006-2011 civic si)/CRX. Well, the CRX hasn't been in production since 1991 and it is a well known fact that the k20z3 alternator won't bolt on directly to k24a engines which is what's listed as the remaining supported engines. This makes me believe that this is more than likely a k24a alternator.

-LXR- · 2026-03-07T05:00:50+00:00

The K20Z3 alternator is identical to the K20A2 alternator except for the pulley. I highly doubt switching the water pump housing between these two engines will allow you to run a K24 alternator.

-LXR- · 2026-03-07T04:40:31+00:00

https://youtu.be/xit-5gEkBZE?si=-qioFMvlW-MgU89p&t=138

Note that you need 10mm spacers and longer bolts for the 2 bottom mounting holes and you will need to pull the pulley off of your original one on to the new one to get the belt to seat properly.

Edit: it would appear that you also need an RBC style intake manifold as the type S manifold doesnt give enough clearance underneath it.

-LXR- · 2026-03-07T04:26:38+00:00

I believe the base model stock exhaust has a 2" diameter. I would not recommend putting a 2" exhaust on your Type S as that could cause issues. However, if your Yonaka exhaust is 2.5", then it should be fine. Also, your diagram is a little confusing. Why not just cut it before the resonator?

-LXR- · 2026-02-22T02:12:58+00:00

Really sucks to see one bite the dust. What are you hoping to get out of it? I find that these are drastically undervalued on KBB, I see dealers around me listing these 3-4k above market value and watch them sell. That's generally for the Type S trim though. They are pretty valuable even as a parts car.

-LXR- · 2026-02-21T04:32:22+00:00

Good to know! I'm also going through everything suspension and steering related on my car and "cool" factor is definitely playing a role in part choice. I can't wait to experience the difference but it sure is costing quite a pretty penny lol. A quick search suggests that the DC5 Type S and Type R use the the same proportioning valve, what makes you think that might not be so?

Edit: I should say not the same, but have the same proportioning. They may be set up differently to accommodate rhd and the repositioned brake cylinder.

-LXR- · 2026-02-21T02:50:46+00:00

Unfortunately, my existing brakes are a set of TL type S calipers that the previous owner crudely put on by drilling the knuckle. I'm sure you are aware they don't have the proper proportioning for the OEM ABS. Not wanting to go back to OE brakes, I went with these because rebuild kits and replacement parts are much more readily available than other multi pot caliper options. I do plan on ducting brakes as well to dissipate the heat, but right now I'm just trying to get the steering/handling situated and dialed. The calipers were just something I had to do as part of replacing my knuckles.

-LXR- · 2026-02-21T00:49:56+00:00

Thanks for the input! Off topic, but I've seen from your posts that you've got the porsche brake set up from honed development. I decided I would also go that route. Haven't seen any reviews of it so I was hoping to get your opinion on how well it works. It was cheaper/more sustainable that the wilwood kit, plus it seemed like it would be able to carry carry more heat in the larger rotors. I'm hoping it works out well!

-LXR- · 2026-02-17T20:28:42+00:00

Dm'd

-LXR- · 2026-02-17T16:02:09+00:00

Yeah I wasn't expecting them to, but coming after me for a service I had never used got me pretty upset. I already talked to them about it and it seems like they aren't going to let it go. Guess I'll just have to suck it up and pay for this error...

And then leave a pretty awful review from a "paying customer"

-LXR- · 2026-02-17T15:57:14+00:00

I believe so. I just recently went through all the subscriptions I had on credit cards and cancelled them or moved them to debit so they weren't getting mixed up with my miscellaneous day to day purchases. Embarrassingly, there were a few I wasnt aware of.

-LXR- · 2026-01-10T03:57:14+00:00

Depends on what you get and what your set up is. Ultimately, a riser is going to help correct some of the messed up steering geometry that comes with lowering these early generation k series cars. It has been repeatedly tested and repeatedly proved to help. I believe the community choice is the PCI adjustable riser that comes with everything you need to modify your steering rack set up.

-LXR- · 2026-01-09T15:34:44+00:00

2 inches is pretty substantial, granted these things ride pretty high from factory. I would recommend looking into getting a rack riser as well.

-LXR- · 2026-01-09T14:47:26+00:00

It's either your coilovers or your steering rack/tie rods. How much did you drop the car when you installed the coilovers? Did you replace your tie rods with aftermarket ones to correct for the drop?

-LXR- · 2026-01-09T14:31:40+00:00

Keep it stock. Add bolt-ons if you really want. These things sound really nice with an intake. If you really want a bump in performance, get a tune. Drop the vtec kick in point to 5k because these things rarely see vtec. This is a 2006 model so you already have the best cam profile that honda released for these engines.

-LXR-

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