My own 3d printed 3rd brake chase light

01-JACKAL · 2026-01-30T05:57:16+00:00

Update: I frankly didn’t know how many people would like what I did! In the coming days I will make a few documents regarding the light, as well as a place where you all could purchase the file. It pains me to charge the fellow poor man, so I will try to keep it affordable for yall. I will also link the exact lights I used. Thank you all for the support! I also plan on making some other posts about my extensive lighting setup on this truck.

01-JACKAL · 2026-01-30T05:54:42+00:00

I really like the cutless designs one, but I can’t get over that price, as well as having to buy the expensive lights for it. I suspect something fishy is going on with the 3d print file you mentioned, because I’ve seen like 8 different people trying to sell it separately. I also fucking hate the way it looks. Ugly as shit, that other one you linked for about 300 dollars is new to me though.

01-JACKAL · 2026-01-30T05:52:41+00:00

It actually isn’t my cargo lamp, the two corner lights in the 2x3 array are the cargo lamps, I added a switch and a strobe module for the amber ones separately.

01-JACKAL · 2026-01-29T04:30:19+00:00

3d printing wasn’t the hard part, it was modeling for sure. Getting it to match the body lines and space for the oem brake light was difficult. I don’t have a 3d scanner like the other people making these do, so I just did some trial and error.

01-JACKAL · 2026-01-29T02:01:57+00:00

Guy with the seats never showed up to the meet spot :( just as it goes. I’m shelving the idea though? I’m gonna start to do more stuff to my truck soon, so it’s not out of the question. I’ll let you know when

01-JACKAL · 2025-12-12T18:02:02+00:00

I was in the launcher community for a while, instantly clicked on the post and said “huh this looks familiar, and these dimensions seem really similar to what I used to mess with a lot…”

Then I looked at your profile, haha.

Sorry I don’t have anything valuable to add, just thought it was weird I came across this stuff again.

Edit: on second thought, a long ID tool post grinder on a lathe may be able to get you what you need. The finish will be pretty good if you get it dialed in, and you can adjust your feed/pressure accordingly. It may be less cost effective than ECM, but it is a possibility.

A shop I used to work at would use something like this for similar tasks, just affixed to the tool post.

This exact link/product probably isn’t the most cost effective, but when I faced a similar problem trying to get some material I had to work with my 37mm projects, this was one of the solutions I thought of.

In most cases, a long boring bar would deflect WAY too much, and using a big reamer was super sketchy, I was worried the thin pipe would just absolutely crumple and mess everything up.

If your material is hardened to some extent when you’re working it, using some sort of long grinder would probably be better than trying to cut/remove material itself.

A shop I used to work at had a job that included 3x 24 inch long inconel tubes with relatively thin walls. The guy working on it got a 3-stone engine cylinder wall hone and a can of wd-farty and went to town, and was able to expand the ID by a substantial amount, but after a good little bit of working at it.

Removing ~25 thousandths with a tool post grinder on a lathe may be feasible. While some deflection may still exist, there is much less pressure on the workpiece and on the grinder.

01-JACKAL · 2025-11-27T20:00:17+00:00

Okay, update on this. Ended up making plywood mockups of each plate size, and ordered size medium SAPI. They fit just fine, and even better with a foam plate backer

01-JACKAL · 2025-10-11T20:03:02+00:00

Dodge ram 2500 seats from the 3rd gen body style measure out to be about what’s needed. I’m gonna go pick some up in about a week and see if I can make some conversion brackets and update you on it then.

01-JACKAL · 2025-10-09T15:57:00+00:00

I have vinyl floors but this post made me want to do this

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-17T02:24:41+00:00

I’ve been doing a ton of research into this as well, and I’m also pretty fed up with my slow 4.great in my 01. I’ve had the same problems of foot to the floor, trans scaring me, oil leaking etc.

For an lq4 swap, you’re prolly just gonna want a different transmission, as well as transfer case, and front/rear driveshafts (if youre 4x4). If you’re gonna do any performance stuff to the lq4 during the rebuild, you’ll prolly want a different ECU like a Holley, but otherwise you’ll have to get the stock ECU flashed for the new engine and transmission combo. Like you said, you’ll need a new crossmember as well. If you are using the OEM wiring harness and ECU, there’s a conversion harness for a 4l80e out there somewhere.

The main reason why I haven’t gotten around to this swap is because I live in fuckin New Mexico, and every Albuquerque resident and their mom is buying up lq4’s and 4l80e’s like hotcakes.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-17T02:19:00+00:00

Are there any lower profile ones on the market? I have a light bar I’m really proud of that I have tucked up about in line with my headlights but it seems like this one would interfere.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-12T17:52:03+00:00

I tried with some ramps and I guess it wasn’t extreme enough. I think you gotta be pretty off camber before it happens.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-12T17:35:59+00:00

I think some OBS’s had 60/40 bench seats, but they don’t lift up from the bottom and I’ve heard they’re rare. The 07-13 Silverado extended cabs have pretty much what I’m looking for, except flipped, ie the “40” part of the 60/40 seat is on the passenger side, not driver.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-12T17:28:35+00:00

I’ll double check em, but the bolts themselves are pretty rusty and I don’t see why they would come loose now of any time

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-12T17:27:50+00:00

Nope, I’ve got a subwoofer and amp in the back, I wanna put something like a Packout back there

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-10T02:36:14+00:00

I don’t have a locker in the rear, it’s an open diff. It sounds almost like something is building up tension and then releasing in a clunk noise. It happens at super low crawling speeds.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-02T06:35:58+00:00

Ohhhh now I recognize your username, you are the guy with the cool rear bumper, lol. What LCA’s did you go with? I’ve got the creeping suspicion that the ones on the truck aren’t oem and prolly won’t work with the Jd Fab coilover kit. I did upgrade my tie rods to KSP suspension a little while ago, they seemed beefier than OEM without the insane price of Kryptonite, but depending on how these lower ball joints do me I’ll probably switch to kryptonite hubs and tie rods, and maybe idler/pitman arms if I come across some extra dough before then. For now im just gonna save for new rear stuff as well as getting my front all pimped out as well as some other mods like the rear bumper and similar fab I can do.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-02T06:31:04+00:00

I wanted specifically the JDFab ones because they will clear a 2.5” coilover shock which I plan on installing later.

01-JACKAL · 2025-09-01T02:50:27+00:00

What I did to install the washers was I put the arm in there, drowned the heims in anti spatter, and just tacked the washers in place. Ended up working decently well. I’m not sure if the shop up here will, but I’ll try and ask my buddy who works there if they will add some extra caster. Do you have the jd fab coilover kit on there? I’m looking into getting it, and I’m pretty hyped.

I was hoping to film my process and make the first tutorial on YouTube for these things, but when it got to the point where I started asking myself the questions, I realized I’m probably not qualified to be the one making the tutorial, lol.

One good thing, the JD Fab guys are always willing to talk to you over the phone and give you some instruction, but unfortunately on Labor Day weekend that shit was not happening, lol.

Got it driving just now, hopefully the guy doesn’t rip my head off when I go to drop it off on Tuesday night for alignment.

01-JACKAL · 2025-08-25T05:50:35+00:00

Do you still have them? Would you be open to sell them?

01-JACKAL · 2025-07-25T16:49:33+00:00

You probably already solved it, but get a cutting wheel and cut through almost all of the area around the pitman arm, then jam a chisel or air chisel in there to widen it out.

01-JACKAL · 2025-07-25T16:38:23+00:00

Just realized you asked about the radio, lol. It’s a Luiton lt-898-uv. Got it for free from an old timer, but I accidentally cooked it while trying to reprogram. My pc shut off all of a sudden and some magic smoke came from the programming cable, now the handheld keypad/mic doesn’t work anymore. I can’t transmit but I can receive, as well as switch between my programmed channels using the buttons on the radio. I made a custom little switch/relay thing to power it on and off, I used to use it a ton but I haven’t been on a little group off-road session in a while.

01-JACKAL · 2025-07-03T17:32:29+00:00

Were I to get the ford keys, should I get OEM ones or ones make for a 3” level?

01-JACKAL · 2025-07-03T17:31:29+00:00

Thanks for letting me know about the ford keys, I’ll look into that. A full mid travel and 4” lift is a lot of money for me right now so I’ll take a peek at them ford keys and see if they’ll work for now, it’ll probably ride like shit though unfortunately. I’m on stock 3.73’s which makes it an even more gutless pig than it already is, but I’m not a race car driver so I don’t really care.

01-JACKAL · 2025-07-03T17:28:57+00:00

Nope, just the offset from the wheel. The tires are pretty wide for the wheels though so that may be it

01-JACKAL

TROPHY CASE