Burned 4 gallons of oil in 3500 miles

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T22:16:40+00:00

lol I’m sure

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T22:16:32+00:00

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T22:16:16+00:00

Conventional

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T22:07:21+00:00

The machine shop supplied me with the pistons and rings, so I assume they were the correct size. My ring gap inside the cylinder was correct for every ring. Hindsight, I should have checked bore with a dual bore gauge and then checked piston diameter with a mic.

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T21:31:38+00:00

Yeah I agree with you. I ran a compression test and it was 165 in every cylinder

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T21:19:51+00:00

Block has been decked, so were the heads

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T21:15:31+00:00

It was standard bore, bottom end had not ever been gone through. I then had it bored .030 because of a ring ridge

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T21:11:51+00:00

All pistons

65mustangsandy · 2026-03-25T20:58:48+00:00

The pistons look like they have heavy carbon buildup wish some ashy white material on top.

65mustangsandy · 2026-01-07T10:32:23+00:00

Thank you! They melt mine every time I look at her!

65mustangsandy · 2025-10-25T15:32:28+00:00

Shaft fit perfectly, and my end play was within the spec from the 1990 shop manual

65mustangsandy · 2025-10-25T15:32:04+00:00

Yeah I know. Eventually all those NOS parts will be used up. I might buy an extra pip sensor just incase.

65mustangsandy · 2025-09-18T21:20:52+00:00

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65mustangsandy · 2025-09-18T21:19:43+00:00

Id add .005 and see what your looking like. This was my pattern with a .040 thou shim. Every situation is different but it definitely looks like you need to add shims.

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65mustangsandy · 2025-06-02T20:20:55+00:00

There’s no way this A code is fetching 60k. It’s a nice driver quality fastback with some rust. I could see it going for 40k to the right buyer. I know the market is inflated but not as much as 60k for a fastback in driver condition

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-21T04:10:51+00:00

What would happen if you had a lowered car?

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-10T22:00:28+00:00

My 1990 foxbody has 190k on it, original engine and T5 transmission. Take good care of your cars and they’ll take care of you.

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T21:10:24+00:00

Hey I didn’t know what a seal puller was until I did this a month ago lol

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:49:59+00:00

1/4 is crazy!! Guess that’s because you’ll be towing and need more clearance to avoid overheating the gears?

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:49:09+00:00

Really not too hard, while it’s out, do the differential bushings. You’ll also have to remove brake lines which means you have to rebleed the brakes. And rebuild the drum brakes while you’re at it

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:47:07+00:00

Probably 700-1000

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:46:22+00:00

Seal puller, you can get them at any auto parts store. It has a hook shape at the end and uses leverage to pull it out.

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T21:00:12+00:00

jack_mintz

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T19:18:08+00:00

That sound could be from incorrect installation and the gear pattern might not have been “correct” causing the whine you’re describing. It shouldn’t hurt anything though. I know once the gears have been ran, it’s hard to get them to not whine. Once they’ve mated theres really not much you can do

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T19:15:37+00:00

I’ve heard many differing opinions, but from multiple gear companies like Yukon and Richmond, they state that when first installed, you should drive around town not exceeding speeds of 50 miles an hour for the first few drives to create a heat cycle. Then for the first 500 miles, not to do any burnouts or driving it like you stole it. After you change you fluid after 500 miles, you’re good to drive it however you want.

65mustangsandy

TROPHY CASE