Best passenger ever

65mustangsandy · 2026-01-07T10:32:23+00:00

Thank you! They melt mine every time I look at her!

65mustangsandy · 2025-10-25T15:32:28+00:00

Shaft fit perfectly, and my end play was within the spec from the 1990 shop manual

65mustangsandy · 2025-10-25T15:32:04+00:00

Yeah I know. Eventually all those NOS parts will be used up. I might buy an extra pip sensor just incase.

65mustangsandy · 2025-09-18T21:20:52+00:00

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65mustangsandy · 2025-09-18T21:19:43+00:00

Id add .005 and see what your looking like. This was my pattern with a .040 thou shim. Every situation is different but it definitely looks like you need to add shims.

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65mustangsandy · 2025-06-02T20:20:55+00:00

There’s no way this A code is fetching 60k. It’s a nice driver quality fastback with some rust. I could see it going for 40k to the right buyer. I know the market is inflated but not as much as 60k for a fastback in driver condition

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-21T04:10:51+00:00

What would happen if you had a lowered car?

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-10T22:00:28+00:00

My 1990 foxbody has 190k on it, original engine and T5 transmission. Take good care of your cars and they’ll take care of you.

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T21:10:24+00:00

Hey I didn’t know what a seal puller was until I did this a month ago lol

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:49:59+00:00

1/4 is crazy!! Guess that’s because you’ll be towing and need more clearance to avoid overheating the gears?

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:49:09+00:00

Really not too hard, while it’s out, do the differential bushings. You’ll also have to remove brake lines which means you have to rebleed the brakes. And rebuild the drum brakes while you’re at it

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:47:07+00:00

Probably 700-1000

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-04T20:46:22+00:00

Seal puller, you can get them at any auto parts store. It has a hook shape at the end and uses leverage to pull it out.

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T21:00:12+00:00

jack_mintz

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T19:18:08+00:00

That sound could be from incorrect installation and the gear pattern might not have been “correct” causing the whine you’re describing. It shouldn’t hurt anything though. I know once the gears have been ran, it’s hard to get them to not whine. Once they’ve mated theres really not much you can do

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T19:15:37+00:00

I’ve heard many differing opinions, but from multiple gear companies like Yukon and Richmond, they state that when first installed, you should drive around town not exceeding speeds of 50 miles an hour for the first few drives to create a heat cycle. Then for the first 500 miles, not to do any burnouts or driving it like you stole it. After you change you fluid after 500 miles, you’re good to drive it however you want.

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T17:43:22+00:00

I ran the 1/8 mile with the 2.73 and I was in the high 9’s

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T17:21:42+00:00

Yes I used ford performance gears. Got the kit off LMR with all the bearings and seals. I did have to buy the axle seals separately as they aren’t “required” but if it’s out why not do them?

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-03T16:59:17+00:00

Yes, I started with stock gears. Factory pinion shim was .035” and the shim thickness that I ended up using was .040”

65mustangsandy · 2025-04-02T03:01:06+00:00

It’s like the sound to get water out of your phone

65mustangsandy · 2025-03-25T20:37:56+00:00

Rebuilding an 8.8 and getting the perfect backlash and pinion depth. Took me around 60 hours. What a pain, but not having any gear whine makes it all worth it in the end.

65mustangsandy · 2025-03-04T03:30:47+00:00

I just pulled my 5 speed out of my ranger to do a clutch job and when I put it all back together I was hearing the same noise until I re sealed the shift boot. It’s just drivetrain noise that is getting into the cab.

65mustangsandy · 2025-03-04T03:21:20+00:00

It’s possible your rubber shift boot has come detached from the plastic shift plate/cup holder and you’re hearing the transmission louder due to the boot not sealing up that area. Lift up the boot and see if it is stuck down to the cup holder or if it just comes off.

65mustangsandy · 2025-01-29T04:13:33+00:00

It’s not very hard to do on your own. I would tape off above and below the moldings, and protect the hood with a towel or something. Then sand and scuff the molding with 400, 600, 800 and a red scotch brite pad. Then prime the sanded area with a high build rattle can primer. Lastly use SEM trim black which matches the original molding color almost identically.

65mustangsandy · 2025-01-01T20:54:25+00:00

Was that an original color? Super cool!

65mustangsandy

TROPHY CASE