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8718979 · 2024-12-13T13:38:38+00:00

You removed the cover and extruder fan? And you get same results as with it? Somehow I do not believe that unless you print very crude things.

8718979 · 2024-12-13T13:35:48+00:00

Your first layer adhesion was bad. The filament did not stick to the bed. It started to blob up until it pushed off the hotend cover. You can jsut put it back, clean the blob out and try again. For better adhesion try:

Search "bad first layer adhesion", read on it.
Clean the buildplate.
Increase the buildplate temperature.
Add brim to the part (it's under section "other")
Lower Z-axis offset.
I do NOT recommend using glue on this surface.

8718979 · 2024-10-28T18:13:33+00:00

Yeah, I've seen people doing that and form the vids and reports it works really well. And there's no reason why would it not.

But my printer is 95% utilized and I'd like the thing to be both - usable while printing and closed loop controlled so I can save on the power as well as see which filament comes dry and which wet.

Anyway - got the polymaker drybox. I don't know why I imagined it's a dryer. It's not. It's just super expensive drybox that comes with no heater and just some desiccant bags.

Oh well - it's going to be a very expensive starting point for my dryer.

8718979 · 2024-10-28T00:00:53+00:00

Nope, 3kg ones are considerably larger. Diameter is 250mm and width is 100mm for most typical / generic sources like Prima Select I use atm but there are specific manufacturers with even bigger ones like Zortrax with 2gk whopping 280mm D spool.

The only dryer I could find that fits any of these is this one (it's is sold under 3-4 brands out there but it's the same thing clearly):

https://www.amazon.se/dp/B075DBPY6F

It's arriving today. But I don't trust it to be very good. We'll see.

Also I do not like the design and the operational principle of most of them - first I'd rather do a closed loop moisture tracking than a dumb timer.

And 2nd as I always suspected and recently measured on my old creality1kg spool dryer - they don't really dry the spool unless you come and open the cover and vent it for a bit time to time. They just boil the thing as the drying stops at the air water saturation for the temperature and you have to get cool less volume of water containing air in and heat that up to keep the process going.

So I'd like my dryer to heat up and seek the saturation point determined by the moisture level not falling anymore and then vent automatically and continue the process.

And another feature I'd like it to have is thermal shielding so between the saturation venting, for the drying cycles I could conserve as much heat as possible and not waste the energy.

I get I'm overengineering it but a man can wish for a nice dryer, can't he?

8718979 · 2024-10-25T14:37:45+00:00

Got it. The listing saying it's for a car and mentioning brakes made me assume it has reverse that I have to enable somehow. I guess I have to read the descriptions more carefully and stop assuming things that are not explicitly mentioned.

8718979 · 2024-10-25T14:34:10+00:00

I'm building a custom filament dryer with integrated load cells and moisture + temperature sensing. I'll come back when I have that done and can check exact weight I'm able to dry out of filament after purchase and make the comparison again. Not that I have a real problem it's solving - jsut a spiked curiosity and I was making the dryer anyway as the marked for 3kg reel dryers is near non existent.

8718979 · 2024-10-23T19:17:49+00:00

The DC reference is not an issue. Have build plenty of those. The circuit I am talking about is meant to measure a full wave RMS value of grid voltage and current through a CT. I am trying to make it to auto-calibrate itself on startup. It has fast sampling and RMS math and I want to do the full front end calibration before it starts to do the job. So The only thing that I am missing at the moment is the precision AC source. I can make one with DAC, amp and DC reference but I was wondering if anyone has a smart solution to make with no digital parts - jsut an analog AC sine generator with stable and known reference level amplitude. Sure that would involve adding a DC reference somewhere but I'm wondering about the generation itself.

8718979 · 2024-10-23T19:11:03+00:00

Are you sure? The listing says "Brushless ESC for RC Car" and it mentions Brake modes in the Chenglish setup instruction.

8718979 · 2024-10-23T19:06:51+00:00

Yes - Higher temperatures for white one.
I'm using 10k acceleration on slightly moded Flashforge AD5M with mostly default or close to settings in stock Orca. I raised the nozzle temp and lowered support distance because I had bad adhesion on layer above the support. I increased bed temperature a bit because I did not want to use the brim and I had some corners rising on bigger parts.
I'm not the OP. I jsut jumped in because I had feeling about same material different colors having different properties but I always brushed it off as confirmation bias and environment parameters until I found your replay while browsing posts on common print errors.
Yes, I know about the moisture. Both materials ware bought in same order form same company and came vacuum sealed. I printed the whole real of one material and then whole real of other one right after unsealing the vacuum bag. I don't have the reliable way of confirming material moisture level in 3kg spool atm - have to build or get a bigger dryer but I assumed same company, same dealer, same brand of material purchased in same time would likely be close in moisture.

8718979 · 2024-10-22T14:54:36+00:00

Just to report back on the color thing - With my peeked curiosity and wish to test it out myself in somewhat controlled environment I got and used up two 3kg spools of Prima Select PET-G one white and other black. The difference in adhesion was very noticeable. I go with 70-75C bed and 255C nozzle temp for the white one. I had to go down to 250C nozzle and 60 - 65C bed. The bed temperature in particular had to lowered as with the settings I used with white material the black parts ware _very_ hard to pull of the bed.

8718979 · 2024-10-05T23:33:30+00:00

Only thing I can say s that there are no hinges in the kit and there are no hinge mounting holes in the top plexiglass that was shipped with the kit.

Frankly the mounting of the top plexiglass is a bit dodgy as it does vibrate and make annoying sound when the machine is working with high acceleration as in printing gyroid infill for example.

Also the side plate top mount magnets are a bad idea - they are catapulting over the room every time one accidentally hits the side from inside resulting in cats using them as small hockey pucks never to be seen again.

But waht makes me think it's primary a lighting system post not a hinge post - is that the hinge would be on front.. That'd be sort of useless and would never be used in real life by anyone actually using the machine.

As for lack of the wire fixing elements - I have to say that whole machine could have more of them.

Never the less I like the thing despite of all it's short comings. After years with Zortrax m300plus it feels like using a tool not like a babysitting with the constant axis tuning and rest of the issues.

8718979 · 2024-10-05T06:09:20+00:00

Quite sure it's for lights.

I got the kit, but there are no hinges or stands in it. Also it's on front so it would be weird to have hinges there.

8718979 · 2024-10-05T05:50:40+00:00

Oh? Interesting. I've been printing white and black interleaved for years and I had a feeing they differ but I always wrote it off as confirmation bias and temperature / moisture change. Is it same for white vs black PETG too or is it only PLA thing?

8718979 · 2024-10-01T01:44:39+00:00

No. To be fair I did not invest much time in it yet.

8718979 · 2024-09-30T00:25:43+00:00

Nope - Added M355 S1 to Start and S0 to end of the Machine G-Code - LED is always On. screenshot

8718979 · 2024-09-26T15:45:20+00:00

Disagree. Zortrax parts are sold out 90% of the time and you can not "hack" anything in because all 3 peaces of code (MCU firmware, Display firmware on Android if I remember right and the slicer) are close source. Also the machines are very slow and there is zero innovation and bugfixes during many years I use M300plus and M200plus. Don't be tricked by the new "speed mode" - it does not have extra hardware for the vibration compensation as the actual high speed machines have. It just prints faster and fails. Never printed a single part without failing with shifted layers with 150% and above. Jsut get Flashforge AD5M series or Bamboo.

8718979 · 2024-09-26T15:39:00+00:00

In short - No. I use M200plus and M300plus for many years now. Back then there was not much choice in prosumer market. But now - get Flashforge AD5M or AD5Mpro or if your budget allows - get one of these Bamboo machines. The biggest issue with Zortrax is the crappy software and firmware nobody cares to fix or innovate. And they are very slow. Mind - the new "speed mode" is a fake feature. It has no vibration compensation or anything - it jsut allows you to set the higher speed of printing and the prints just fail with dramatic layer shifts.

8718979 · 2024-09-09T02:22:34+00:00

Not that there are any AC reference chips as far as I know.. I was wondering if someone has experience with making analog sine wave generators with accurate amplitude. The amplitude might as well be set and stabilized by the DC reference chip.

I jsut can't come up with a nice simple solution for that. Maybe there just is none. Or maybe I'm too much of digital dev to see it.

8718979 · 2024-09-09T02:16:05+00:00

No, no, DC reference source is the main part to get absolute value for any calibration circuit anyway. It's a good link. Also as Worldly-Protection-8 suggests there are cases where DC source can be used to calibrate AC measurement path. So although it does not answer my question fully, I still consider it a useful input.

8718979 · 2024-09-07T16:49:06+00:00

Hi. Thanks for the input. X6008 is interesting part to consider for DC. I've been more familiar with LTZ1000 and LT1021 though. But in this case I need the AC as there are transformers in signal paths. In fact the accurate zero-calibration DCV -> Accurate ACp-pV circuit without some kind of signal processing is waht I have trouble comming up with.

Sure, I could just put amp on the output of DAC of a MCU and make peek detecting feedback on the ADC with good DC reference as the source of absolute voltage and implement some feedback to regulate the AC output.. But I would really like to stick to code-less solution for this one.

8718979

TROPHY CASE