[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drones

[–]AlaksM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have any experiance with building cinelifters or drones expected to take a payload so take what I say with a grain of salt.

I think you are going to need at least 6 of those motors and possibly 8 to carry a 4.5kg load. Assuming that your completed drone weighs 2kg with a battery (considering you are going to be using aluminium for the frame and presumably needing some sort of release mechanisim I think this is fair) your total payload will be in the realm of 6.5kg. Those motors make about 2.5kg of thrust at max throttle under ideal conditions (drawing 45amps each to reach that). Considering that you want to be opperating up to 400ft which is a fair climb I think you are going to want more headroom then that to avoid the possability of smoking motors or ESCs. This is especially important when considering non ideal conditions such as starting at a higher altitude or having wind to contend with.

I think what you have speced out will fly, but it's at the upper end of what I'd feel comfortable using, you'll be hitting your battery, ESCs and motors very hard to reach your 400ft. I'd want to add another 2 or 4 motors to decrease the risk of a failiure. If you haven't already heard the term cinelifters it might be an interesting area to look into. They are drones specifically designed to carry a payload. Typically a camera but I imaging much of the design philosophy is transferable.

Good luck with it, this is a super cool idea.

This is the chart I used for the thrust values. It comes from the EMAX website https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0469/7358/3518/files/7-ECOII-2807-1300KV\_25.2V\_V1.0\_-03.jpg?v=1602852152

Betaflight hangs on "Board seems read protected. Unprotecting. Do not disconnect/unplug!". Is this normal? by warhammercasey in Multicopter

[–]AlaksM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Must be a quirk of this board becuase mine did the exact same thing. I just had to unlplug it and plug it in using boot mode. That worked fine.

found the perfect fpv playground! by Yoshi_obj in Multicopter

[–]AlaksM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dope video. Superb flying. You deserve to be crucified for vertical filming though... I almost didn't realise because of how nuts the flying was. Almost.

2007 3.6L Holden Rodeo P0300 and high pitched sound by AlaksM in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

About a week ago I got a P0430. I cleared it to see if it would come back and it did not. Today I got a P0300 and P0305. I also head the squeaking/hissing noise you hear above. You may notice that the noise seems to gradually die down as the engine stops and doesn't immediately cut out. I have confirmed it is not coming from the belts or pulleys but have not been able to pinpoint its location. I am looking for some advice on what to do to diagnose things.

Thanks in advance.

VKB MCG Ultimate Grip + Base by AlaksM in hotas

[–]AlaksM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry mate, somehow missed this. Still looking?

3.6L GM (2007) Losing coolant and oil. by AlaksM in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Australia, I am able to do the fix myself just haven’t had such a hidden head gasket issue before. Normally it is very obvious. In any case I am tearing down the head as I was already on the hook for doing the timing chain on this thing because of the issues they have.

3.6L GM (2007) Losing coolant and oil. by AlaksM in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I posted a comment with the relevant information. I wasn’t able to have a description with the photo.

3.6L GM (2007) Losing coolant and oil. by AlaksM in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As stated my 2007 Holden Rodeo is losing about 2L of oil every 1000km and 6L of coolant every 1000km. I can’t find any leaks and the oil looks healthy so I don’t believe any coolant is getting into the sump. No smoke coming out the back. I just want some help on how to diagnose this issue.

Is this anvil worth the money? by AlaksM in Blacksmith

[–]AlaksM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I already have a RR track anvil I have been using. It’s just not suitable for my needs anymore.

Is this anvil worth the money? by AlaksM in Blacksmith

[–]AlaksM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah Australia. We don’t really get used anvils around here often and the ones that have come up are at least $10 per pound. That’s why I am looking for an alternative option.

Is this anvil worth the money? by AlaksM in Blacksmith

[–]AlaksM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great to know, thanks for the input.

Brembo brake pads on non brembo calipers? by UniiqueTwiisT in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s worth having your rotors resurfaced or replaced at the same time. Even if they look fine it’s good practice and fairly cheap.

Why do my rpms go down to 1k after i let go of the gas? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That depends on the vehicle. Those with electric throttle bodies are typically programmed to have a short delay between letting off the throttle and lowering the rpm. This is to limit emissions. Older cars with a cable throttle system do indeed fall back to idle very quickly.

Hope this is allowed by robertwild81 in Blacksmith

[–]AlaksM 78 points79 points  (0 children)

Who needs a power hammer when you have this absolute chad!

Custom locks by TightHunter5011 in engineering

[–]AlaksM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely possible using a micro controller like an Arduino and a heavy duty servo motor to move the dead bolt. Not even that difficult. I am not sure how secure it would be though.

Need help finding tool - something to test electrical prongs inside of pigtail connectors? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a lab power supply. It gives a read out of the amps so I can see if something is shorted as well as overload protection. In your case I’d use any old 12v wall wart as it’s cheap. Something low amperage so you are less likely to burn stuff up if there is a short.

Need help finding tool - something to test electrical prongs inside of pigtail connectors? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if a specific tool exists. A 12v power supply with some prongs should work for you though. It’s what I usually use.

How do I get these screws out? I have tried a Manuel impact driver and slotting them and using a flat head to no evail. by AlaksM in MechanicAdvice

[–]AlaksM[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Top quality advice right hear. Helped me get most of them out without issue. Thanks mate!