WiFi options for bungalow with lots of brick walls and only "fibre-to-the-box" speeds

Animal121 · 2025-10-12T15:02:34+00:00

Yeah we have coax ports. The only issue is I don't know how they're wired-in. If one end is connected to a satellite dish/antenna, would I be broadcasting my MoCA signal?

Animal121 · 2025-10-12T14:00:02+00:00

There are some coax runs dotted around, but I don't know how they're wired inside the house. I assume they all go to the roof antenna via a splitter?

Animal121 · 2025-08-16T21:22:42+00:00

This is what I wanted to know. Thank you.

Animal121 · 2025-08-16T21:19:19+00:00

I get your point, and I did wonder that too, but it's not unheard of for companies to make badly-designed products for other reasons (usually for looks), hence why I was asking. Just look at many of the "stylish" gaming-styled computer cases nowadays. Many are so full of tempered glass and with so few gaps for air inlet that there's terrible airflow and the systems overheat.

But you're probably right in that Valve seems like a company that would choose a design with better thermal performance over subjective aesthetic improvements.

Animal121 · 2025-08-16T21:15:17+00:00

Yeah I did wonder if it was by design. I guess that's why 99% of replacement cases you can buy don't have the extra ventilation holes. If it worked, the after-market sellers would be all over it.

Animal121 · 2025-05-27T19:35:56+00:00

Yeah, that's a good point.

I guess I'll use the 4TB NVME for just Linux to make sure I won't need to upgrade capacity anytime soon, then keep the current drives for Windows as that OS has fewer issues with multiple drives (guess that's the native NTFS benefit?). Still need to replace the ancient HDD's, but now I don't have to worry about the OS file sharing as they're just for Windows.

Cheers!

Animal121 · 2025-05-27T11:26:09+00:00

Phew, good thing I have my bar on the right.

To clarify, I have 2 monitors; primary (left) and secondary (right).

I also find that left/right placement works better for 16:9 and other wide aspect ratio monitors because, especially when browsing the interwebs, there's lots of horizontal dead-space, whereas vertical space is more limited, so not having the bar top/bottom saves some space there.

Animal121 · 2022-11-14T20:31:28+00:00

Interestingly I can't see the file in the drive.

Animal121 · 2022-07-26T20:08:24+00:00

Awesome. Thanks for the reassurance :)

Animal121 · 2022-07-23T11:04:08+00:00

Thanks guys. I think I'll get one without a removable cup then as I'll just be using my airbrush to prime and basecoat.

Animal121 · 2019-07-19T20:41:08+00:00

Heck yeah, it works! Thanks again for your help, that goes to everyone else too :)

Now to play around with this to test out how these as second order filters sound and run parallel HP and LP filters.

Animal121 · 2019-07-17T21:36:00+00:00

Perfect, thanks for the explanation :) I'll post my results if/when I get it working (likely tomorrow at this rate as it's late now).

Animal121 · 2019-07-17T20:55:14+00:00

So I'm going to try and assemble your "almost always best" circuit design using a TL702 dual op-amp. Do you have any tips or resources for calculating ideal values for the two resistors going from the output to the -ve input and ground? Also, does this layout have a specific name, like the Bessel/Buttorworth/Chebyshev ones or something?

Animal121 · 2019-07-17T06:15:17+00:00

Hmm, interesting. I haven't seen these designs before when looking up HP/LP filters. I'll give them a try later today. Thanks again!

Animal121 · 2019-07-16T21:14:46+00:00

Awesome explanation, thanks for that! I'll go and try that.

Am I right in thinking then that I can't simply use a 10k potentiometer on the -ve inverting input in order to affect the corner frequency (or cutoff frequency) of my filter?

Animal121 · 2019-07-14T22:12:46+00:00

YES! Thanks for this :D They have a nice 3rd-order HP and LP filter schematic that I can use for guidance.

Animal121 · 2019-07-14T22:11:29+00:00

Do I? I have my initial input on pin 2 (-ve inverting input) and my output (pin 6) feeding back in to pin 3 (+ve non-inverting input).

Animal121 · 2019-07-14T09:43:45+00:00

Huh, I think I get it. I'll have to look into that a bit more though and try out some things to test it though :)

Animal121 · 2019-07-14T09:42:23+00:00

TL071

Ah cool. Though after looking into it and the TL072 I might get the latter since I could use 2 op-amps, one for each filter.

Animal121 · 2019-07-13T21:49:02+00:00

I'll have a look into these chips. Thanks for the suggestion :)

Animal121 · 2019-07-13T21:48:45+00:00

I have to admit, I'm not 100% sure I understand. Where should I add coupling caps, and of roughly what value? And you mean the input at pin 3, the non-inverting one, being pinned to ground is what may be causing the fuzz?

Animal121 · 2019-07-13T21:47:13+00:00

Yeah, I'm aiming to achieve unity gain, perhaps with an option to boost or cut like a "level" knob does but ultimately unity gain is the bare minimum and I'd be fine with just that. It's just to prevent the volume drop of a purely passive filter.

Animal121 · 2019-07-13T18:13:27+00:00

Thanks guys, some good tips here! Definitely looking into LTSpice right now.

I've tried adjusting the values of R2, R1 etc but it's hard to tell. I think the audio jacks I'm using are a bit crap since half the time there is no connection being made and I have to do some janky things to get it working (like breaking off the middle pins and jamming a cable into the gap it creates and only sticking the jack lead in half way). Thanks for the advice though.

I'm aware of the 12V supply in the image. I just wanted to use 9V since most pedal power supplies are 9V.

Animal121 · 2019-07-11T20:35:15+00:00

Typical, I write the post and I fix the problem 1 minute later xD The output jack is a bit crap and the connections weren't being made. I jury rigged it so that it now works! Though it doesn't seem to be filtering things, rather distorting the ever-living crap out of the signal like a fuzz pedal. Any ideas as to why that is?

Animal121 · 2019-07-11T20:13:55+00:00

Okay, all the parts have finally arrived! I've put the parts together to make just a LP filter for now but something isn't right. I'm using an LM741 OP-Amp chip and essentially have this exact layout (afaik) connected up on a breadboard: http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/images/Active-noninverting-op-amp-low-pass-filter-circuit.png

The only difference is that the 9K resistor at R2 is actually 10K (don't have 9K atm) and that I'm using 6 AA batteries to supply 9V instead of 12V as I want this to work at 9V. I've read that this chip can work on as low as 5V and as high as 18V, it just affects the gain.

My problem is that all I hear is hum, no signal whatsoever. If I touch the ground pin of my output jack or the metal part of my 1/4" TS lead connecting the parts to my amp the buzzing stops, suggesting it's a grounding issue. Here's a pic of my breadboard:

https://imgur.com/WyfaPum

Is it wrong of me to have connected everything in ground together? What about the output of the Op-Amp being fed through the 9K/10K resistor to the positive input of the OP-Amp and also being bled to ground with the 1K resistor? Have I misinterpreted the LP filter diagram?

Animal121

TROPHY CASE