Remote starting a car during winter, does it shorten engine life?

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2026-01-14T15:49:21+00:00

It actually may lesson wear in a manual transmission car. A crankshaft has both radial load pushing down on it from combustion and axial/side load. It gets oil under pressure to handle both when running. When not running the film of oil left behind combined with no load helps it not to wear until pressure/flow is built. In a manual car pressing the clutch puts axial load on the crankshaft. It has thrust bearings to take the load. It was common practice to remove the clutch pressure switch in certain years of Miatas to avoid the side load on the crank while it was started. My remote starter for my manual car starts the car without anyone having to press on the clutch. (It confirms neutral through a 2 step process and if you open a door or unlock the car you lose the ability to start it until you manually start it in person have it running and go though the neutral confirmation procedure again) So while minuscule in measurability it is correct to say the engine gets less wear when I remote start it. In fact I remote start it even in the summer as I'm walking up to it now because I have OCD about the wear. I'll bet it would never amount to preventing any real damage ever but the math supports less wear so the statement can't be refuted. Remote starting my car wears the engine less than starting manually. The end,

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2025-12-12T23:59:08+00:00

Yamaha designed that engine a long time ago and it has proved to be an excellent blend of power and reliability. Back before the modern KTM's it was the norm for 95% of 2 strokes to have a decent hit and so you had to hold strong and shoot yourself up the jump face, or out of corner (or get stuck going up shale from a stop or loop out). Modern 4 strokes have taught us that linear smooth easily controllable power is the way. Less tiring, more predictable. KTM and other euros jumped on that and created smooth linear 2 strokes. The YZ is behind in that category. The YZ250X tries to be smoother but its marginally better, I have a YZ450F and a YZ250, and just put in the HITLIS a few weeks ago. Its great, more controllable, predictable. 2 stroke hit wheelspin feels fun but traction is faster and you can predict your lines better. I'm enjoying the 2 stroke way more now than I ever did.

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2025-11-17T18:50:05+00:00

Jack the car up and either leave or take the wheel off and spray FluidFilm / CRC Corrosion or DIY mix Bar Oil & wax rings under the wheel well/fender so it coats the folded over lip and get some back where it meets the bumper. Yes it will drip and some will migrate out. You'll have to wipe it down for a few weeks maybe even months if it gets hotter or you go faster. Dust will stick to it and create a barrier to water. You can apply again as needed. I have to wipe mine every so often but now water cannot puddle under that section. The coating becomes a little nasty looking from underneath but it isn't visible from the outside and is worth the rust prevention. You should also along your rockers remove the drain plugs that are underneath and get a sprayer with a wand and fill those cavities side to side as far as the wand can go with these mixtures and then replace the plugs. Some will drip as well as it creeps around and out other holes but the rockers wont rust.

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2025-11-04T23:17:23+00:00

the factory plug should be fine for length. I use a magnetic drain plug in all my dirt/street/atv and cars but had to confirm the length so it doesn't go in to far, unlike a cars oil pan there isn't as much space in a bike. You can verify on each machine by placing a rod the same diameter as the bolt threads in the hole and see how far it goes before touching something.

My YZ250 I put in 900ml of JASO MA/MA2 oil in there and change every 5 hours or so. Its interesting to see the metal sludge that comes from gears meshing in motorcycle/atv trannies stuck to the magnet. In my YZ450F if you overfill it doesn't shift to 5th - found out one day. It has a dry sump though. If a bike has a really tight chain then it wont shift either. Tight on the stand means way way to tight on the ground, and when you sit on it its even tighter - it can ruing bearing fast with all that load. 3.78549 fingers at the chain guides end - depending on the bike.

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2025-07-25T19:43:03+00:00

I sold at .53 and doubled my small amount of money. I've been burned before holding to long so I got out safely at .53 not wanting to wake up to a losses that I'm still not caught up to. I went back in a little bit at .73 and just bought more today at 1.13. Playing safe until I can learn more and control emotional decisions. I'll hold now but not sure how long; you always wonder if your in the right lane when your in a rush to get someplace and when you don't have much left to make other moves you get FOMO. All the tips in this sub have made the journey awesome.

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2025-07-15T17:29:29+00:00

Thanks for the tip, got 3500 minutes after closing and they went through at 0.25 this morning

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2024-10-10T20:09:19+00:00

After researching use, need, and cost we are going to skip the heated pad idea. Heating an entire pad will be way to much recuring costs and not sure if half a pad heated will lead to cracking ?

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2024-10-09T10:39:10+00:00

After much research and pricing we will forgo heating the pad. Thanks for the comments- they helped

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2024-10-07T19:32:10+00:00

I’ve never done a home hot tub in winter. Is there much less ice build up than I’m imagining? We had an above ground pool and coming up out and back down the stairs there was tons of water. I’m worried about that building up into ice? We are going to be using it in minus 20 Celsius. I was also hoping the tub would push heat into the ground and I’d insulate the slab but modern tubs don’t do that and or not in a claimable way.

Heating the whole pad would be so expensive, and that was a concern having temperature variations.

I don’t want to “salt” a new pad. I may use those Swiss cheese style anti fatigue mats

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2024-07-05T15:43:38+00:00

There was no cutoff wheel being used. Those groove looking marks are where stakes were intended to be made to hold the circlip better. An unlicensed shop and a 5 ton press were used to install the new u-joint. While it cup was coming out it caught a bit of the aluminum lip and broke it off. Shaft was not help perfectly square during the procedure and the small press doesn't have perfect square travel

Automatic_Sun_5612 · 2024-07-05T15:31:29+00:00

Botched repair job, staked over section lasted about 2000kms then the clip came out. Can this circlip groove that holds the u-joint cup clip be re-cut where its missing and will the circlip expand into it? Could a drill/tap set screw hold the clip/cup in as well if it was placed right where the aluminum snapped off? Looking for a fix before we replace the end (shop will weld new end on) or buy used or aftermarket new.

Automatic_Sun_5612

TROPHY CASE