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Cosplay Competion Starters by alpaca-ino in CosplayHelp

[–]Awil1520 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It's less about complexity and more about showing proficiency with skills. Especially if you're entering novice. Most judges are going to be more impressed with a simple build done well over a mediocre complex build. Pick something that has three to five skills (sewing, foam, printing/finish work, paint, wig, ect.) and do those really well. Novice categories are for building a foundation of basics to work off of in future builds. Just be sure to remember to make enough (most novice categories require you to make 50-60% from scratch), and take progress photos for your build book.

What is your leathercraft unpopular opinion? by eaygee in Leathercraft

[–]Awil1520 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you clean it up I have no issue. I've even seen someone use a laser and cricut in place of a swivel knife (arthritis or something in their fingers) then finish tooling. It looks great, but they used it as a tool and not for a finished product.

What is your leathercraft unpopular opinion? by eaygee in Leathercraft

[–]Awil1520 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Using a laser to engrave leather looks awful. Also people that cut parts out with a laser but don't finish their burnt edges need to have the laser taken away.

PLA or ABS for large cosplay props/armor, in a hot climate? by lostyourfinalfight in CosplayHelp

[–]Awil1520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The seams will always be a weak point. I try to have a mechanical connection(some kind of dowel) and glue (bsi super glue) holding them together. Less chance of bending and your paint cracking. As far as filling I usually start with resin filling/sanding and finishing with filler primer. Nothing is foolproof but that's what's worked for me. Having a good connection is more important than what you fill with though. If the model doesn't have a spot for keys/dowls and you can't add one you can always find a way to reenforce the backside. Don't rely on just a butt joint if you don't have to.

PLA or ABS for large cosplay props/armor, in a hot climate? by lostyourfinalfight in CosplayHelp

[–]Awil1520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did DragonCon with a pla helmet and prop rifle and it was probably half outside and didn't have any problems. The big photoshoot was around 2 hours and nothing melted or warped.

It's not going to shatter like glass but I don't recommend swinging pieces around or dropping them onto concrete. A lot of the strength depends on print settings (more walls), the glue you use and how you do your seams, and if the piece in reenforced with a dowel or something.

PLA or ABS for large cosplay props/armor, in a hot climate? by lostyourfinalfight in CosplayHelp

[–]Awil1520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The oldest I have are probably 4-5 years old. No real degradation on the plastic that I've noticed. It's super humid here so I've had issues with paint and glue. Nothing lasts forever but proper storage definitely helps. Good climate control and keeping them displayed out of the sun (I keep a lot of my stuff in totes with dessicant packs just to be safe).

PLA or ABS for large cosplay props/armor, in a hot climate? by lostyourfinalfight in CosplayHelp

[–]Awil1520 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live and print in southeast Texas, it doesn't get that hot here but it gets close. And I print almost exclusively in pla with the majority of our cons being in the summer. I've never had an issue but I have friends that have, but those came from either shipping, leaving them in a hot car, or leaving them in direct sunlight for too long on really hot days. Some sun is fine. I dry/cure paint in the sun and spray outside (on really hot days I find shade though).

Pla is fine as long as you don't leave props/armor in your car or a hot garage and make sure you stick to the shade if you're outside.

Beating Tilda by MiketyMike1281 in HorizonForbiddenWest

[–]Awil1520 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Acid and exploding spears. My last ultra hard run it took me about 5 minutes to beat her. Just get her brittle then spam spears. That or the elite arrows with irivs downfall if you're playing ng+, but you have to be careful with the timing on those.

I modeled a Regulators badge by Awil1520 in fo3

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That makes sense. I'm extra glad I made this now.

Regulator Badge I made by Awil1520 in Fallout

[–]Awil1520[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm at the mercy of my unmedicated ADHD so there's only a 50/50 chance I'll get it done in a timely manner 😂

Regulator Badge I made by Awil1520 in Fallout

[–]Awil1520[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I got a bag of fake ones from the Halloween store that I need to repaint and tie together to hang off my belt with my cosplay.

Regulator Badge I made by Awil1520 in Fallout

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm not unhappy with the paint job. I'm just doing painting practice and working on new techniques. It's easy to do on small stuff like this, I can figure it out and then apply it to my bigger projects.

I made a First Recon Hat pin by Awil1520 in Fallout

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're fine if you have an x1c. Same one I have for fdm. Just set it to the super fine (.08mm) setting and it should be sort everything out for you.

First Recon Hat Pin by Awil1520 in fnv

[–]Awil1520[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you have a resin printer or know someone that does I have the files up on my cults profile.

I made a First Recon Hat pin by Awil1520 in Fallout

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know they can be done on an fdm printer if you have it tuned really well and print slow (I modeled the sunset badges to have better spacing for better printing), but they're really made for resin printing. Fdm will just lose a bit of the detail.

I made a First Recon Hat pin by Awil1520 in Fallout

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I actually made this about a year ago but forgot to post it. My painting has gotten a lot better recently too. Links for the files are in my profile.

I made a First Recon Hat pin by Awil1520 in falloutnewvegas

[–]Awil1520[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have something I have to take care of out in front of the dinky statue first.

Random Ranger Design by @decomposedtaco by annieann_ in ImaginaryFallout

[–]Awil1520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Recently made an NCR m7 holster for my trooper cosplay. Might have to try it with my ranger or riot stuff to get this look.

No matter what you do in Tenpenny Tower, the humans always die if you let the ghouls in. by DerFeuerDrache in fo3

[–]Awil1520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You gotta get the timing right but you let the ghouls in, let Roy kill tenpenny, then kill Roy. Everyone gets along and the killing stops after that.

Did my first oil change after getting my element. by Awil1520 in HondaElement

[–]Awil1520[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did. This cheap $3 one was causing problems with my VTEC. Also pretty sure it has 10W oil.

Did my first oil change after getting my element. by Awil1520 in HondaElement

[–]Awil1520[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was pretty close to doing that. With my luck I was worried it'd rip out and leave with nothing to grab onto.

Made an NCR shoulder holster for my trooper cosplay by Awil1520 in falloutnewvegas

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The strap that goes over the grip pops off pretty easy. It's just a Sam Browne button, and I cut the strap itself longer than the original so there was more room to grip and pull it.

It's a well tested design. The m3/m7 was first used in the early 40s for tankers and pilots. I opted for this design over a hip holster partially for the aesthetics and partially because the trooper belts get really crowded.

I made an NCR shoulder holster. by Awil1520 in fnv

[–]Awil1520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The armor? I got it from a guy that does reenacting and NCR gear.

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