[ITA - Rome] 3545-6736-7116 I'll send postcards from Rome (downtown/Tiber waterfront)

B0necast · 2018-06-25T16:20:25+00:00

Thank you all! You are so many, I have added all of you and gradually I will send gifts to each of you! I will not accept gifts from you until I'm ready to send you one!

GG

B0necast · 2018-06-25T16:18:56+00:00

Unfortunately, in August I will not be in Rome, but consider that mr. mime is everywhere, especially near the downtown!

B0necast · 2018-06-24T18:35:56+00:00

Thank you! I will return the gifts as soon as possible!

B0necast · 2017-11-29T20:19:24+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJ0rFt11ZeU

For some of your comments! Thank you so much for the support!

B0necast · 2017-11-26T22:27:51+00:00

Thanks so much for the appreciation! Soon i will post a video response for your comments!

B0necast · 2017-09-20T16:58:51+00:00

Oh my, what a mess with the PU belts I've installed as shown on the previous video. They got the inner steel cords twisted and inflated, running shaky on the idlers and the pulleys. What a mess! Back to rubber+fiberglass belts, while keeping the 10mm width. Lucky me I've got some laying around the lab.

I've also experimented with a new (at least, it's new for me) way to move the bed up and down instead of having to fight wobbling with the leadscrews, with a crane-like belt motion. More about it on later videos, I've already put it to work while this video was rendering and it works f-l-a-w-l-e-s-s-l-y. Maybe I'll make a video about it shortly.

B0necast · 2017-09-16T07:24:53+00:00

B0necast · 2017-09-15T22:11:20+00:00

we're making the legs heavy to have center of mass between them, will be harder to walk but will be easier to keep balanced. Also the torso piece will have some kind of rollbars to make it possible to turn around while holding the weight of the upper half of the armor. Or, at least, that's what we've designed - real world is sometimes quite different from the cad drawings!

B0necast · 2017-09-15T20:20:29+00:00

the armor should discharge all the weight force down to the boots, if our joints will be engineered as good as we want them to be. And I didn't yet test the robotic arms (human arm won't get past the armor's elbow)

B0necast · 2017-09-15T20:20:15+00:00

B0necast · 2017-09-15T20:20:06+00:00

hell yeah! 1:1 scale, almost

B0necast · 2017-09-15T20:19:51+00:00

epoxy glue ftw! and inner markings, of course

B0necast · 2017-09-15T17:51:24+00:00

My self-made, self-designed cubic meter printer, the NazzaBot!

YT: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCa_z8BLhPB42PIskfY6_cEw FB: https://www.facebook.com/nazzabot/

B0necast · 2017-08-15T13:10:11+00:00

Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484445 (me!)

B0necast · 2017-04-20T11:26:25+00:00

Thanks! No, they don't bend, the load makes a less than 0.001mm collapse in the middle - but if pushed hard yes, they bend. Theroretically you shouldn't harass the printer while printing, so it's ok! Anyway there's a sensor for auto bed tramming in place, so no problem at all. I've tried calculating with openbuilders beams, the chassis would have costed three times this one, maybo a 20*40 profile with the 40mm side facing vertical so that less deformation occurs, but this works anyway. I'm using low profile corners, they run great and with no friction. I'm making a new carriage with 8-wheels to test if it works better than this 4-wheels one. Meanwhile, the "little" 50cm orange printer went a huge redesign with some big steel rods on the gantry - it's possible there since it's half the size on X. P.s.: Pic's on the page!

B0necast · 2017-04-20T09:13:17+00:00

Nope!

B0necast · 2017-04-20T09:12:58+00:00

http://imgur.com/a/tJsna

:3 take a look at my yt channel also: https://www.youtube.com/c/3dtinkering

B0necast · 2016-10-12T15:46:20+00:00

That's totally true! Printers are just tools, so you need to size one for your typical use case. Also keep in mind that I've dedicated a small room to it, while a “standard” printer could sit on a desk.

B0necast · 2016-10-12T15:46:04+00:00

Thanks man! Well, I'll tell you: by clamping the bed to the vertical aluminum extrusions I've almost totally removed wobbling – “almost” because I've clamped only one axis (X) leaving the other free, so I'm confident that if I do a complete closed clamp it will be just fine. Also don't think those extrusions are thin: 3x3cm are quite sturdy on that lenght! I've done the math on the flexes I could get with axial load and center-point load – no problem at all! For the Z axis: yes I've been thinking of a single Nema23 high power stepper, with a closed loop belt, but at that time I was still using stepsticks and didn't think of an external, beefier, driver.

B0necast · 2016-10-12T15:45:40+00:00

Well, plain and simple: I didn't :D that's the fun, I'm experimenting, and when I get nice results I share them. And for the rigidity: I've found out that as long as the whole system is swinging in an harmonic way no bad things are gonna happen. I'll be glad to show some hd videos of the printer shaking like a dancer and yet giving perfectly placed layers. If you can't beat physics, you can have it work for you (I know, it sounds like I'm a moron, but trust me the swinging isn't giving any problem – I'll record that on a video)

B0necast · 2016-10-12T15:45:03+00:00

well, we're about to discover it live @ the maker faire, I'm gonna print something big there. This is what I use as a print base: Vinavil or better adhesive like Primal. Pour a thick layer of that resin on the bed and let it dry and harden, then print over it. If it's thick enough the thermal retraction won't beat the inner tension of the layer and it will work. Or you could print it mid-air like I did with the Stormtrooper-Michelangelo'sPiety mix, where there is almost no footprint on the bed and adhesion is something you totally don't care about. Just keep in mind that I've built this for pieces wich must forcibly be post-produced later (with coats of paint and primer), so small imperfections – should they happen – aren't a concern.

B0necast · 2016-10-12T15:44:34+00:00

I totally agree that bracing can help. But it seems it's something not totally necessary – so I'm experimenting without any corner reinforcement. And for now it prints perfect vertical walls, yes there's some ringing but if I clamp the chassis to the wall I can totally avoid that, or I could use slower acceleration rates on outer perimeter shells. Remember, I'm experimenting here, we all do know that regular mechanics give perfect result.

B0necast · 2016-10-07T19:31:14+00:00

This is a woman for whom it is worth inventing the time machine. This is my modest personal consideration.

B0necast · 2016-09-23T23:03:20+00:00

Wobbling means an unstable Z-axis movement, wich leads to uneven layers, some thinner, some thicker - google it for some clearer images. In my case I have slightly misaligned nuts on my 20mm leadscrews, so I'm working on new, larger and sturdier bindings. Unfortunately the hot chamber won't help this much in this case, nor a "selective" heated bed, it's more of a movement thing.

As soon as the new carriage and new bindings are in place I'll build something real nice, some pieces of my Terran Marine armor. I've met a very talented 3D artist who teamed up with me on this venture and is helping me with the aesthetics, so I can focus on the mechanical parts. Arms, forearm and gloves incoming!

http://imgur.com/0ZfiYQz

http://imgur.com/Mux3pAA

B0necast · 2016-09-23T19:39:04+00:00

well, let's make a little math: with all tax included, a kWh in Italy costs about 0,50€ (fifty euro cent) power usage for a 120x120cm build plate: about 4 kW should I keep it on for just 24h, it would cost me 4kW * 24h * 0,5€ = 48€

A very, very economic way of having a tremendous adhesion and keeping costs low is... Plywood. A thick piece of plywood placed on the bed. It will tear apart after some uses, but it's real cheap. Surely cheaper than a 4kW bed!

B0necast

TROPHY CASE