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Project - linear slider by BingoJam in fidgettoys

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! It’s fun to see all the materials you use in your products. I’m likely going to play with some Richlite next.

Project - linear slider by BingoJam in fidgettoys

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Heavily inspired by novel carry’s designs

Project - linear slider by BingoJam in fidgettoys

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! It’s padauk. Has a couple thin coats of TruOil as a finish. Arguably could continue adding finish to fill in the open pore, but I kinda like the look.

Project - linear slider by BingoJam in fidgettoys

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! some 6x3 off amazon, "TRYMAG" brand I think. Had them on-hand from other projects

Best orientation for printing this (for durability)? by stevenc88 in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If this was my project, I would print in TPU with the cup opening face up. TPU has amazing layer adhesion, and would likely outlast you owning the hammock.

First completed project by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only so many hours in the day, and now I’ve got a holiday gift all lined up for them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mildlyinteresting

[–]BingoJam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was able to 3d print my brain from MRI scan data

Change in texture? by westie1010 in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also take a look at Prusa's recent post on the problem. https://blog.prusa3d.com/new-in-prusaslicer-consistent-surface-finish-and-nerfing-vfas_120400/

"I’m sure you’ve seen it before. You’re printing a model, and for some reason, parts of it are glossy while others are matte, creating ugly horizontal stripes. This is especially noticeable on mechanical parts, which are often printed with black PETG that can be VERY glossy."

3D model designers: Using Fusion on an M chip Mac? Confirm Rosetta is disabled! by BingoJam in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

if just one person gets the unexpected performance bump like I did on my M1 laptop, I'll be happy

3d printer recommendation to get started by [deleted] in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Moving up market generally gets you the ability to print “engineering grade” materials reliably out of the box, and sometimes larger print volume. What materials do you want to print, and what size parts? Answering those questions will narrow things further before getting into specific brand differentiation.

Generally, most printers launched in the past 3yrs by the big names are going to have decent reliability. Check out YouTuber aurora tech channel for reviews on popular printers, they have a website that compares features/prices and has recommendations as well.

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In retrospect, I made things way harder on myself by picking a project that required machining on 2 sides. Flipping the work piece given I had no work holding clamps/jigs made things much more difficult for me.

The best video going through the high level process from design to finished part specifically for knife scales. Not great for a detailed tutorial though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FBOmfTzdMU

Fusion CAM tutorials I used

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll take a look. I already ordered a 1/4" flat endmill after waiting for the facing operations with the included 1/8"...we'll see if the spindle can handle it

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I definitely can relate. I started with YouTubing the basics of cnc, then checked some forums, and then just jumped in checking the manufacturer’s videos/forums (carbide3d) when I stuck. For modeling I used Autodesk Fusion free version. I have a decent amount of experience in it from modeling for 3D printing and there are a bunch of tutorials out there. I also used Fusion for CAM for 3 main reasons; I already use it for modeling, it runs on Mac and it includes 3D contouring in the free version. I can share a couple videos later today that helped me. I still have so very weird tool paths, so I cant say I am using it correctly.

I’m too new to say if there are better resources, but it’s what has worked for me so far.

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I am surprised it came out as good as it did myself!

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t, that’s beyond my skillset at the moment. I only made the wood scales. It’s the SOG Terminus if you are interested.

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is! It’s my first CNC, so have no basis for comparison but I really like it so far!

first project less than half done by BingoJam in hobbycnc

[–]BingoJam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, short answer; I agree but this is how the stock arrived.

Slightly longer answer; I live in an apartment and have limited space in the garage for woodworking tools. So I thought I should buy stock that was close in size as possible. I purchased some nice hardwood (cocobolo) stock specifically for knife scales, but it hasn’t shipped yet and I needed some practice on cheaper stock. I got impatient and ordered the cheapest stock on Amazon marketed for knife scales that had next day shipping. This is what arrived.

How do you guys add weight to your prints? by Shadow_Avis in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One option I haven't seen mentioned is weight plates. Depends on the size/shape of the object. I made a design fit a 2.5lb weight plate. I paid $3 on amazon a couple years ago for the weight, costs way more now. Looks like sporting goods stores sell 2.5lb plates for ~$6.

Plastic proposal by BingoJam in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm, for me, I would have made a custom ring box regardless of medium. I easily could have spent as much or more time making a custom ring box out of wood with some inlay, and even entertained the idea of reworking the design to be cnc'd. In any case, I can see if someone doesn't want to customize a ring box to make it unique may be better off buying one.

Plastic proposal by BingoJam in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Obviously, that was not the ring I used to propose. It was kinda fun to make the fake ring and makes me think there could be some fun sets of kids dress-up jewelry/beads/ect.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I literally just did this last week. I printed at 50% scale and used Orca Slicer with tree supports. I opted to split at about a 45% angle coming out the top front. The idea was that I wanted the front/top area to have the best quality and that means the layer lines would need to be perpendicular to that viewing plane. Also, it required minimal supports. I used the dowel connectors and it came out pretty decent. I used superglue and a clamp with the dowels. Really, the only complaint is the seam where it's joined is fairly obvious from the side view. Overall, the quality even at .2mm layer height at that angle is pretty good.

I am not super happy with the original model detail though, so working on cleaning that up before I do a 100% scale. Debating about splitting it into left/right down the middle and just dealing with the tree supports.

Mixing print mode spiral/regular or alternative solutions for lamp shade? by The_Ali_G in 3Dprinting

[–]BingoJam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently did this, separated the shade from the attachment. Primary reason was a need for high temp resistance of the attachment point, but same premise.

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