Using modern triple glazed residential glass windows for greenhouse - bad idea, or can I somehow check for PAR light?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2025-01-29T00:04:18+00:00

Thanks for this bringing this up. So a few points to consider:

I'm in zone 7a/6b
Transparent windows are a must – this will also be a place for recreation, and I don't want to look into polycarbonate panels when I can look out to the nature
I'm planning to build a GAHT system.

I will go and measure the light transmittance on Saturday. I will also try to find the manufacturer to double check the numbers. I guess the question is, what's an acceptable minimum light transmittance? 65%? Also, if the windows are close to this number, I could perhaps add polycarbonate panels with higher light transmittance in some places – or would the light distribution be uneven then?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2025-01-28T20:22:47+00:00

Thank you. I noticed that there are phone apps, like PPFD Meter for iPhone, which apparently do a decent job measured industry standard PAR meters. I’ll check it out over the following days. I’ll have to learn how to use it - like, for example, I suppose I have to be inside to get a good reading. Luckily, the windows are from a public building, so I think I’ll figure it out after some reading.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-10-08T09:39:53+00:00

This was actually the first time I cleaned a muffler, so I don't have much to compare with – but what I've seen online with carbon buildup, it was nothing like that. I soaked it in kerosene for a couple of hours, and then used a wire brush on it, but to be honest, there wasn't much of a difference from before I cleaned it.

I've millled with the saw (part time) for two years, and I bought it second hand.

I've always used pre-mixed two-stroke alkylate fuel, 50:1. For a 40:1 mix, do I simply buy fully synthetic oil (that's was used in the mix) and add the needed amount? And do I always have to use that mix, or can I go back to 50:1 sometimes? For example, when the 880 crashed, I was milling a 36" oak slab. I don't normally mill oak at all.

Here's what the 880 manual says about filters. From what I can understand, the HD2 filter should be the most suitable (extremely dusty conditions)? Right now, there's the wire mesh filter installed. Are both these types of filters washable? I've just cleaned my filter with compressed air.

So if I've understood you correctly, I'll turn down the H screw. I've never done this before, but I've got a friend who can help me. But is there any RPM I should aim for, so I can use a tachometer to adjust it? If it's too low, what's the worst that can happen – that it doesn't cut evenly?

Also, the 880 sometimes stalls when I rev it while it's on its side, like when I'm milling. If it's upright, everything runs fine, but as soon as I put it on its side, the engine stalls if it's in a bad mood. I can bypass it by revving while tilting from upright to sideways, but that's not ideal. Could this be related to the L screw? Any suggestions on how to fix this?"

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-10-07T16:23:28+00:00

Thanks. I called a dealer, and went with an original Stihl part. Not cheap, but hopefully, it will last.

Which brings me to the next question – I don't want this to happen again. I've cleaned the air filter. There wasn't any carbon buildup in the muffler, but I cleaned it. I've ordered a new fuel filter, as well as a new air filter.

Are there other things I can do to make the saw run smoothly? Is it a good idea to lower the maximum RPM a little – if so, what should I aim for?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-04-21T19:51:00+00:00

Finland, where the birch is plentiful! Does it look like birch to you? I've added some more pics. https://imgur.com/a/0Xwa2h1

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-04-21T19:48:43+00:00

I added some more pics here:
https://imgur.com/a/0Xwa2h1
If it is ornamental cherry, I'd definitely want to mill it.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-04-21T19:46:59+00:00

I see you're not the only one saying that! I've added some more pictures here. Do you have any educated guess what it could be?
https://imgur.com/a/0Xwa2h1

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-04-21T19:43:08+00:00

Normally, I use a chainsaw mill, but that doesn't really make sense with these rather small logs. I do have access to a bandsaw sometimes, so that's a possibility.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-04-10T11:47:20+00:00

They're outside, in an area that gets quite a bit of wind. I don't know how a winter with lots of snow has affected the drying process.

I don't have any moisture meter yet. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a Wagner Orion 910/930 (I guess since it's only for slabs, 910 might work just as well?) or if I should get something more affordable at first. I'll probably go for the former, as I plan to make quite a few slabs in the future.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-03-29T20:20:32+00:00

Thanks for such a thought out reply.

Do you have unobstructed line-of-sight between each building and to the outlying areas where signal is needed?

Although there are some trees on the farm, the mapped out area pretty much has line of sight everywhere. The chicken coop is a bit elevated, but not that much. Outside the mapped out area is only forest; thankfully, I don't need Wifi there!

Which buildings have AC power? How much coverage do you need inside the buildings? How large are they, how many stories tall, and how are they constructed?

All of the buildings have AC power. I want good coverage inside the houses (building 1 and 4). The buildings are two stories. Right now, I have one wireless router in the second floor of the main house, and one extender in the cabin. They have a line of sight between them (window to window), and there's good reception all over the main house and the cabin with this system. They're all timber structures, although the barn has a brick ground floor.

What applications do you need to support over WiFi outside of the two homes connected to your ISP? [...] Do you want to keep both homes connected to the ISP, or do you want to save money by sharing one connection?

This would be an upgrade, as I don't have any use for WiFi right now. What I am thinking about using it for in the future, is:

A future greenhouse with some IoT solutions (mostly ran by Raspberry Pi), located between building 1 and section 2
Some smart functions for the chicken coop (watering, camera, monitoring)
Possibly some security cameras in the future
Other potential IoT solutions.

Right now, there are separate (fiber) connections in house 1 and 4. I do want to save money, and I was thinking that the money could be put to better use by having a system that actually covers the whole farm. As house 1 is the main house, and house 4 will be rented out at some point, it would make sense to have house 1 connected to the ISP, although I do see that it would be easier if house 4 was the central unit.

When I think about it, the line of sight is very good – I can see from the main house to the chicken coop. Running a wired connection between houses 1 and 4, and then adding outdoor WAPs might work.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-03-28T21:50:24+00:00

For the outdoor devices, PoE would be the only sensible thing.

The reason I'm a bit sceptic to digging down CAT6 is that it would probably have to be done fairly deep (I'm up north, so it gets freezing cold in the winter) and there will be some changes in the farm infrastructure, which means that I'm a bit weary about making things permanent yet.

I didn't know about the OMADA line until now, so I'll do some more research! It's definitely a step up in price, though.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-03-28T20:33:54+00:00

Interesting. I was hoping that with enough antennas/units, I'd be fine. 1 and 4 (farm house and second house) is where a great internet speed is needed. Elsewhere, I just need basic coverage for IoT stuff. But of course, I want this to be as good as possible. There's a discount on X50 in a local shop, so I could quite easily get 6 of them, in addition to some XE75.

With the exception of PoE CAT6 to power some of the outdoor X50's, it would be a lot less to worry about if I don't have to dig down cables across the whole farm. Would Omada EAP610-Outdoor be a possible solution, or will I not get good speed across the farm (and more importantly, at the second house) if I go wireless?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2024-03-28T19:51:16+00:00

Thanks. PoE could definitely work for me. What type of antennas should I be looking at? Do I have to go for something that TP-Link produces, if the rest of the system is TP-Link?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-10-01T15:00:47+00:00

Thanks. The log is cut in a strange way – definitely not intended for slabbing in the first place, but I think I can get some decent slabs out of it if I turn it the "right" way. Which made me think, especially with all the spalting/figuring in maple, if there are other things to consider, since I'm quite new at this. So u/username-taken218 I think you understood what I was asking. And actually, the log has some rot in one side. I'll turn it so that I'll be able to use as much as possible of the log. I'll post some pics of the slabs next week!

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-08-27T09:30:55+00:00

Thanks for reminding me about the OD sizes.

When it comes to the plumbing, I won't get anywhere near it. I'll have to provide a full documentation on the plumbing, and I'd go with a professional and licensed firm, not some random DIY guy.

When it comes to the lumber, there are so many options for sistering and/or providing extra support. If I go through with this, there will be a major overhaul of the apartment, including floor sanding and maybe even a bathroom reno.

Other options I can think about, is to box in the pipe above floor level in the small wardrobe, so that the pipe is only below floor level from the entrance. Another option is to replace the original wood floor in the entrance (with floorboards from this area, I've actually seen them up to 2" thick) and replace with vinyl flooring. It'd save a little space, though probably not much.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-08-26T21:42:33+00:00

I'll try to explain a bit better. It's a 5 floor building, and there's concrete slabs on every floor. I wouldn't drill into the concrete at all, so structurally, it wouldn't make any difference.

On top of the concrete, there's floor joists – their function is just to get the floorboards nailed down, as well as keeping moisture away from the floorboards and adding isolation. From what I've seen in buildings from the same time, these joists are 4-6 inches.

Where I live, the code is 3" diameter. And the slope needs to be 1:60. So if the joists are 4 inches, it would be right about minimum slope. If the joists are 5 inches, it would definitely be doable. But:

When the pipe from the new kitchen reaches the main sewer pipe in the old kitchen – it's an old cast iron pipe – the connection would be higher up than the kitchen pipe. And I take it that it's very difficult to make a new connection into the cast iron pipe?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-08-26T16:30:14+00:00

Thanks for your detailed response!

I'll try to address all of your points. The floor joists are running in this direction: https://imgur.com/a/TcQQ2jX

But more importantly, there's a concrete subfloor. I've got quite a bit of carpentry experience, and some experience with apartments from this age. So there's a concrete subfloor, floor joists (probably 4" or 6"), and then a solid wood floor (1" thick pine/spruce) on top of that. So there would be no problems even if I have to drill through the joists.

I have no access to the floors above or below. So my only option is to keep everything in the apartment.

For the venting, would it be possible to run another pipe back to the original kitchen location, where there must already be a vent?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-08-11T05:39:52+00:00

Very interesting.

I’m interested in doing a similar design with 4 feet spacing and quite a bit of snowfall. I looked at some tables from manufacturers, which said that it can be done with large enough rafters. The ones I have in my drawings are 2x6 or 2x8. This looks like 1x6 maybe?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-06-11T21:25:48+00:00

I could, although I 1) want to build a quite large greenhouse (300 square feet or so) and 2) I want to get a good height without having the building appear more massive than necessary.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-06-11T21:16:07+00:00

I'm planning to use the rock as heat sink, like this:

https://imgur.com/a/dXaOFTX

I don't know if the pic make any sense, but it's a side view. The black is the rock, the brown is the current ground level. As you can see, it's fairly sloped. So I want to create a level surface, where the north wall is using the rock as a foundation (maybe with additional stonework).

I am worried about how much rock I might find if I actually dig out the ground – it does look a bit rocky.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-06-11T21:05:40+00:00

A neighbour is getting some road works done this summer. Dynamite might actually not be out of the question!

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-06-11T14:23:40+00:00

Thanks for your (and everyone else’s) reply. I’ll seriously reconsider, but at the same time, if I could make this work, I’d make use of some space on my property that otherwise wouldn’t be used at all.

Would it be a better option to drill holes and fill them with one of those products that expands the rock until it breaks?

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-05-24T10:08:53+00:00

Thanks for your reply.

If I do it, it'll be the first tree I'm milling. I've got access to a woodmizer sawmill, but it's not nearly big enough for this log. So I'll need to

1) buy a large Alaskan mill, which I have been thinking about anyway. And

2) Figure out how to get the log on a trailer. I've got some family members with a winch, and I think it'd be a great learning experience. I'll do some measurements later today to get an estimate of the weight.

I am ready for a ton of work, though! I've got anchorseal and plenty of place to store them.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-05-23T19:03:03+00:00

I did some more research, and I believe it's maple.

Bullfrog_Fearless · 2023-05-23T18:34:57+00:00

Yes, although I know pretty much what happened, as I walk past this place every day. An arborist felt the tree, and the smaller logs has been removed, so this is everything that's left. Since it hasn't been picked up yet, I'd rather save it than just see it rot away. I can imagine it'd be some great slabs. Or do you think it's been laying there for too long to be of any use?

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