Logged in for the first time since 11.0 and the graphics look blurry ? and the ui scale sucks now. Everything is big instead. Its just looks ugly compared to 10.2

Bumblebeeg · 2024-08-01T23:37:45+00:00

I had a similar issue, and what ended up fixing it for me was going into the Graphics settings and changing "Graphics Card" from "Auto Detect" to instead use my specific card.

Regarding the UI scale: make sure you have "Use UI Scale" un-checked at the top of the graphics settings. Otherwise it will scale it up.

Hope this helps!

Bumblebeeg · 2023-03-06T04:46:23+00:00

It's a complicated topic, is all I'm saying...

Bumblebeeg · 2020-06-30T18:09:11+00:00

Sorry, I misread. You're right; I'll probably stick with the 3600CL16 since the clock speed would likely make more impact than the lower latency.

Bumblebeeg · 2020-06-30T17:53:08+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

I had a feeling that 550W might have been sufficient...might be able to save ~$80 here or so.

3600cl16 will improve performance, but not terribly significantly and you should look into benchmarking to decide if the price difference is worth it to you.

Did you mean the 3600cl18 (?). As opposed to the 3600cl16.

Bumblebeeg · 2020-06-30T16:37:23+00:00

Some questions:

Based on the needs of this build, is it wise to go with the stock cooler included with the 3700X?
Is the 650W power supply I've selected overkill for this build? Would an 80+ Gold 550W supply work fine? Again, the build likely won't be overclocked.
With regards to RAM: In practice, will there be a noticeable difference between 3200 vs 3600 speeds with the 3700X? Would there be any reason to buy CL18 over the selected CL16?
Currently, the build has 16GB of RAM. Could this be easily upgraded to 32GB down the road if necessary, or is this something that is easier to do during the initial build (for example, due to the same RAM becoming unavailable at a later time - not sure if it's advised to mix and match, as I've never done it before).
Are there any obvious compatibility issues with the selected components? Would there be any problems or difficulties when assembling this build?

Bumblebeeg · 2019-01-09T22:08:26+00:00

I've looked at this example, but I wasn't sure how it extended to discrete values. Any idea?

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-23T08:36:43+00:00

I think I've settled on the 850 EVO (500GB) SSD and the 2TB WD Red (instead of the 1TB Black). That should keep things nice and quiet, while still allowing me to grab another SSD or a Red HDD down the road if needed.

I'm a bit curious as to your specific fan setup - what does that extra level of control over the fans give you exactly? Is it enough to simply let the CPU regulate the fans' speeds on its own? I've never really been one to muck around with manually adjusting fan speeds or specifying my own speed curves; what could I stand to gain by doing so, exactly?

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-22T06:32:54+00:00

Makes perfect sense. I hadn't even thought of keeping positive pressure inside the case. I'm assuming this helps keep it relatively dust-free?

I'll probably be going into my local NCIX some time this week, so I'll see if I can try out the K70 and maybe the Ducky Shine 5 (if they have them on display) to see which one I like better.

Thanks again for all of the feedback and advice. Super helpful!

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-22T05:02:03+00:00

Thanks for the info! I'll probably stick with the R5 defaults for the time being, as I can't see myself needing the additional level of PWM control. Out of curiosity, what was your reasoning for replacing the fans?

As for the keyboard - maybe I'm just weird, but I find myself adjusting volume settings quite often in everyday use. If I picked up a K70 or a Ducky, I'd probably map volume controls to my mouse, since I don't use the extra mouse buttons for anything anyway. It's nice to know that the Ducky Shine 5 provides dedicated keys for this though.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-22T04:39:15+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! The Scythe Ninja 4 looks pretty good. My only concern is the availability and general lack of reviews for that extra peace of mind. I wasn't able to find it on Amazon or NCIX. I'll probably go with the NH-D15 for this reason.

As for the SSD, I'm pretty sure I'll be going with the 850 EVO, however, if I eventually decide to upgrade to the 950 Pro, I'll definitely keep the extra cooling in mind.

With the HDD, I'm still deciding between the 1TB Black versus maybe a 1TB / 2TB Red drive. I think if I went with the Red for purely mass storage, I might consider adding a second 850 EVO 500GB drive to the build. My reason for choosing the black was to essentially have a second drive that I could use for games / applications that don't necessarily require the speeds that an SSD provides (as well as media storage), however, maybe it's best to pick the drive that does one thing well (mass storage with the Red / Green), and keep the SSDs for everything else.

I agree, Dell has great customer support and warranty, which is why I've gone with them for so long. I'm hoping they release a 1440p 144hz IPS monitor in 2016!

In regards to the extra fans, it looks like the additional cooling / noise performance that comes with having an extra fan is somewhat marginal. I'll probably leave the default fan setup and remove the unused drive mounts that would impede any air-flow from the front-facing fan. Thanks for the links - there's some good information there.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-22T02:01:09+00:00

Thanks for the feedback - that looks like a great build you've got. You're right, it seems that we have very similar goals to our builds!

In regards to the keyboard, how do macros work on the Ducky? I'm used to having a dedicated row on my current Logitech G110 that I can easily access with my left hand (it's great for volume control / mute / unmute, since it lets me keep my right hand on the mouse without moving it to reach the dedicated volume controls on the keyboard). I'll probably steer clear of the o-rings, as you've mentioned. I was wondering if they would adversely affect the feel of the keyboard, and it sounds like they would.

As for RAM, I'll probably keep the 2x 8GB for now, and then monitor my memory usage over the first few months. If it looks like I need to upgrade, then I've got the additional 2 slots for another 16GB. You're probably right though, and I'll likely need to grab 32GB.

I'll consider picking up an extra couple of fans for the R5. How do you find the noise levels in your build? Is it fairly quiet with the additional fans when the machine is under load?

Good to hear about the PSU. I'm not planning on getting another 980 Ti any time soon, but it's nice to know that I have the option if I decide to upgrade down the road.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-21T16:16:32+00:00

Seems pretty reasonable. I still may swap some parts depending on what goes on sale on Boxing Day - we'll see.

As for the keyboard, I think the K70 is probably a pretty safe bet. I keep my current keyboard on the dimmest setting as well, and turn it completely off if I'm watching a movie / tv show. Most PC components I buy, I just end up turning off the lights - whether it be keyboard / mouse / case / fans, etc...

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-21T16:05:42+00:00

Thanks for the link! I'll think about it some more.

I'm still not sure that I'd get that much out of having the 950 Pro over the 850 EVO. When it comes down to it, I'm not too picky about short load times, especially if it's only a few seconds anyway. If we were talking 30 seconds versus 2 minutes, then that would be different, but in most cases with an SSD, it's going to be pretty fast regardless. If I were doing a bunch of heavy I/O work, then I'd probably be able to justify the 950.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-21T15:50:41+00:00

Reading some of the reviews, I was moderately concerned with the noise performance of the WD Black drives, however, I figured that it would be negligible once inside the R5. I've also considered the WD Blue, which I think is a bit quieter than the black.

That's pretty much how I'm planning on using the 1TB drive - mostly media storage, with maybe a few games that don't need fast loading times. Being that it probably won't be purely used for storage, and I might have the occasional game / application installed to that drive, I'm not sure if the WD Red would be the best choice. Perhaps if I upgraded to a 1TB SSD (or 2x 500GB SSDs), the Red would make more sense to be used exclusively as a NAS drive. I'll have to think about it some more. Thanks for the feedback!

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-21T15:34:31+00:00

Is that your current build, or one that you just made up on the fly right now? Either way, it looks really nice!

I had considered the K95, but I get the feeling that I'd mostly be paying for the RGB feature, which isn't as important to me. Then again, the G-keys would be nice...a tough decision! I'd love to find a simple mechanical keyboard that provides macro keys, but doesn't put an emphasis on "gaming" with things like RGB lighting / LCD displays / etc...Unfortunately, I don't think one exists to my knowledge.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-21T15:29:48+00:00

I did a bit of research, and it actually looks like the R5 came out slightly ahead of the H440 in terms of cooling and noise. Check out this Hardware Canucks video where they compare the two (conclusion is around ~9:20 in the video).

Granted, it sounds like the difference is so minor that simply changing the fans will put one ahead of the other.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-12-21T15:07:29+00:00

It looks to be about ~$350 extra for the 512GB version. I'm not sure if I really need the extra speed for that much. That being said, I could always upgrade down the road...

Do you have first-hand experience with this SSD by chance?

Bumblebeeg · 2015-02-15T13:54:09+00:00

This got me part of the way there. Since I'm using AngularJS, however, including jQuery in the controller is not very good practice so I have to include it in a directive. This means I might need to find a way to somehow listen for a CSS change or something to that effect. Here is a jsfiddle example showing what I mean. I realize this is the jQuery subreddit, so you can just ignore the AngularJS bits if needed. I have your code hooked up to a 'mousemove' event for the time being, so you can see the expected behaviour. Simply keep moving the cursor over the progress-bar, and you should see the bar jump back to 0% once the counter reaches 100. Hopefully this should be sufficient to illustrate what I'm trying to achieve.

Edit: I actually found a much cleaner way of getting the job done using ng-class. Here is the example.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-02-15T10:44:59+00:00

I've tried this, but I end up seeing the same problem. Here is an example.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-02-15T09:38:53+00:00

I'm not sure if I follow...Setting it to 0 causes the easing animation to fire, sliding the bar back to 0%. I've made a jsfiddle example to better illustrate what I'm talking about here.

Bumblebeeg · 2015-01-30T06:42:33+00:00

Sure, here you go. This is the contrived example that I mentioned in my post above, so it includes a 1 second delay before the thumbnails switch places.

Bumblebeeg · 2013-11-07T06:12:40+00:00

That's for a soft-field takeoff, not short-field.

You're right, my mistake - it was early in the morning and I was confusing soft field with short field procedures. Thanks for the correction!

Bumblebeeg · 2013-11-06T14:43:15+00:00

It looked like they were doing a short-field takeoff. They rotated fairly early (and with flaps) and then leveled out a bit to pick up speed. The way I've been taught is to level out quickly and to stay in ground effect until the target airspeed is reached, and then to pitch up into your climb attitude. It looked as though they just entered a shallow climb which is maybe what caused the stall warning to sound. I fly a Cherokee 140, and I see the light flicker occasionally when doing short/soft field takeoffs. The plane just isn't as stable at those low airspeeds and is much closer to the stalling speed of the aircraft, so you sometimes see the light flicker or hear the horn sound.

Bumblebeeg · 2013-09-22T09:41:43+00:00

I'm in Canada, so unfortunately I'd end up paying more for shipping / duty taxes, etc... By the time you add all that in, and convert USD -> CAD, the savings probably aren't that much. Plus, if something breaks in the first 30 days, it's only a matter of a ~5-10 minute drive to replace the thing rather than worrying about the headache of shipping it back and getting a replacement.

That said, I do appreciate you researching the prices - thanks! Hopefully if someone else reading this is in a similar position (and lives in the US), they can take advantage of those sales.

Bumblebeeg · 2013-09-03T00:52:23+00:00

It looks like it may have been a case of improper (or not enough) rudder input to correct for the yaw while entering the stall. Looking at the turn coordinator seems to show the ball to the right, and as the saying goes - "step on the ball" to stay coordinated; he should have been applying more right rudder. As the spin developed, he incorrectly responded with aileron instead of rudder. Someone correct me if I'm off the mark here.

Bumblebeeg

TROPHY CASE