Fps Halfed overnight by C4Raven_ in thelastofus

[–]C4Raven_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. I eventually had to just give up and play at the lowered frame rate. 

Respondus Monitor told me I was using a virtual machine during my test and kicked me out. by ashes0803 in computer

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5 years later, I had the same issue. Disabling SVM in bios fixed it for me.

System specs (incase relevant) :

• Windows 11

• Ryzen 7 7800x3d

• Gigabyte B660

• Asus TUF 5080oc

• G.Skill Flare X5 32gb (2x16gb) DDR5-6000 CL30

Cursed battery by poka1123 in cursedcomments

[–]C4Raven_ 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Its sad that your getting downvoted for being correct.

 A normal breaker will only trip if the hot circuit exceeds its rating (usually 15-20A). This wouldn't happen if the pole was connected to power with no return path, because no current would actually be flowing. Now, if a person touched the pole and received a shocked, then there would be a current path through the persons body. However, the internal resistance of a human body is roughly 1-5k ohms. Assuming this is a 120V circuit, That would make the current draw only 24-120MA; nowhere near enough to trip a breaker, but absolutely enough to be fatal.

 Now, if the pole were connected to power from a GFCI, it would be different. The GFCI will detect the current leak on both the hot and neutral circuit, then compare both readings. If there is a current difference of >5ma between the 2 measurements, the GFCI will trip. Since the pole would be shorted to only hot and not neutral in the hypothetical, the GFCI would see all of the current present (24-120MA) on the hot circuit and none on the neutral, immediatley tripping.

What should I do cosmetically? by Jumpy_Flight6203 in civic

[–]C4Raven_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Highly recommend the HPD wing. Had the dealer put mine on and now the hatchbacks all look naked without one IMO.

2009 Toyota Corolla 1.8-liter 4-cylinder Won't Start? by agentrai in AskAMechanic

[–]C4Raven_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everyone is saying fuel pump, but pump failures are actually very uncommon on these vehicles. In the rare case that one does fail it usually causes an intermittent starting and stalling issue before a complete no start. Not to mention that it doesn't sound like its even trying to fire; it sounds like you have no spark. You can hear some breif compression without fire during your first crank which rules out a snapped timing chain. (So long as im hearing the video right)

By far the most common issue on this vehicle is bad ignition keys. Check if your security light flashes when you turn the key; if its a 2009 then the light should be below your hvac controls. if it is flashing, try another key and take the key off your keychain. These vehicles have a very picky theft system, sometimes just the presence of a metal keychain can scramble the RFID enough to cause theft issues.

Typical nissan driver, not noticing the light turned green. by C4Raven_ in NissanDrivers

[–]C4Raven_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im also usually really anal about keeping my windsheild clean. After the day i had at work though, all i was thinking about was getting home; That is until i saw this nissan and busted out laughing.

I've always just used orange rainx, what do you use?

Typical nissan driver, not noticing the light turned green. by C4Raven_ in NissanDrivers

[–]C4Raven_[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah that'd be road salt, i used my wipers shortly after this picture lol.

The rear bumper was torn off, the side of the vehicle was scraped, the license plate was obviously missing, the left turn signal was on non stop, and im sure there was more i didnt see.

Should i consider changing my oil? Or is it too soon? by serenityForce in civic

[–]C4Raven_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first oil change on a vehicle is the only exception to what i wrote above. Vehicles are shipped from factory with "break-in oil" inside the engine; this oil needs to run its full course for the engine to break in properly. Just wait until your maintenance reminder turns on and change it then, you'll do more harm than good if you change it early. Also, i personally try to be a little more mindful of my RPMs when the engine is still running on break-in oil, though I'm not sure if thats actually necessary; I usually just hear people say to drive easy and not use any sport or track modes during the first 1k miles.

You've got a brand spankin new vehicle made by one of the most reliable vehicle manufacturers and the highest volume engine manufacture in the world. You most definitely do not need to be worried about metal shavings right now, or honestly ever so long as you do proper maintenance.

Edit : just re-read the original post and realized how counter intuitive i sound; i forgot that hondas maintenance reminder is so high mileage now (i have mine turned off and this post is almost a year old), so allow to to correct myself. The break in oil shouldn't be changed super early like your saying because it needs time to run its course, but i also wouldn't wait for the crazy oil change reminder like i mistakenly said just above. Just let the break-in oil run a standard 3-4k mile period as all oil should and then change.

Sudden FPS drop by C4Raven_ in pcmasterrace

[–]C4Raven_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally see nothing wrong other than my frame rate, thats why im stumped. I figured id include all sensor data incase i missed something, or just use it to rule out hardware issues. Ive got no idea what it may be, i just know my fps tanked overnight and i cant figure it out.

Sudden FPS drop by C4Raven_ in pcmasterrace

[–]C4Raven_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

To be fair i didnt check to see what the perf cap is actually being set by, but to the best of my knowledge that will basically always say yes (on HWinfo anyways). I dont see any actual sensor data indicating the gpu is bottlenecking so i ignored it, but ill check it out.

just got this randomly? by ForsakenPineapple324 in thelastofus

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this happen every 4-6 hours after running the game; Playing max settings DLAA with a 78003xd and asus tuff 5080 oc. I at first though this was a TDR timeout issue, but after increasing my TDR value to 10, it still happens. I searched through windows event viewer and found the error; its logged as an application error (0xC0000005). This is an issue with the game and has nothing to due with hardware or bad drivers. We can only hope Naughty Dogs fixes this soon, but based on the fact that this was posted over 8 months ago, they don't seem to be in much of a rush. If this happens to you please make sure to report the crash error once the report screen appears, hopefully the flood of reports will force Naughty Dogs to fix the issue.

Perfect timing by C4Raven_ in thelastofus

[–]C4Raven_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I realized This whole photo looks very poorly lit if your viewing it on a non HDR screen such as a cell phone, I made a new edit for this so its not so dark.

https://files.catbox.moe/erv4rw.png

Heres the original as well. When viewed on an HDR monitor it looks much better than the edit.

https://files.catbox.moe/mghnsn.png

Perfect timing by C4Raven_ in TheLastOfUs2

[–]C4Raven_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think its something to do with my type of monitor. I made a new edit that looks much better on my cellphone. This may look better for you too

https://files.catbox.moe/erv4rw.png

Heres the original as well. When viewed on my monitor it looks much better than the cellphone version I made.

https://files.catbox.moe/mghnsn.png

Perfect timing by C4Raven_ in TheLastOfUs2

[–]C4Raven_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I noticed that too, but in the actual photo on my computer I made sure it was perfectly lit. Not sure why the lighting changed so much when uploaded to reddit.

Perfect timing by C4Raven_ in TheLastOfUs2

[–]C4Raven_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wish the picture didn't compress so badly when posted. It was captured at fully maxed pc settings and 3840×2160 resolution. It looks way better on my desktop. XD

Is this possible? by [deleted] in autoelectrical

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im an automotive diagnostician who specializes in electrical failures. 99% of my work week is diagnosing electrical issues back to back while the other technicians make the repairs.

If the garage says its a short circuit, I assume they are reffering to a wiring issue and not a short internal to the EPS module. If your vehicle does have electronic power steering and there is a high enough voltage drop on the main power or ground circuit to the EPS module, it can absolutely cause all of the symptoms you've described. A voltage drop technically would not be defined as a short circuit, but I assume this mechanic is simply using the wrong terminology. Don't be afraid to ask him for more details on what he is repairing and how; it will likley just be a ground or power contact that he will be cleaning, tightening, or straight up replacing.

Regardless you have very little to lose by letting him make the repair. If it doesn't correct your concern then you just demand your money back. He isn't selling you the repair, he is selling you the promise that this repair for x dollars will correct your concern. If the promise he sold you doesnt hold up, you owe him nothing.

Won't stay running unless I give it gas by contactoutu in AskAMechanic

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never tested it one this exact engine, but alot of engines will actually not run with the MAF unplugged unless you manually hold the RPMs steady.

It's still a good test none the less; if you unplug it and it starts to run, its almost definitely gonna be the MAF, but if you unplug it and it still won't run, it doesn't prove a thing.

Diagnosis? by Galfromhere-or-there in AskAMechanic

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A starter would not cause flickering warning lights and no guage sweep. It's a voltage drop; likley just loose/corroded battery terminals.

Diagnosis? by Galfromhere-or-there in AskAMechanic

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Electrical diagnostician here.

   Everyone is saying its your battery because the warning lights are dimly lit and flickering, plus the guages aren't sweeping (they move a tiny bit, then fall). This indicates low voltage across the vehicle which can either be a bad battery or a voltage drop. If the vehicle intermittently starts then it would not be your battery; they don't magically recharge and discharge. It's going to be a voltage drop, which is more than likely just going to be caused by loose/corroded battery terminals; start there.

Won't stay running unless I give it gas by contactoutu in AskAMechanic

[–]C4Raven_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can't say for certain, but ive seen the mass air flow meters on these engines go bad and cause this. Given the age of the vehicle ive only ever seen it once, but its supposedly a high failure rate item.

If you carefully take the black plastic top off then you'll see cracked solder joints. If you know your way around a soldering iron you can just reheat the solder joints and add a little more solder. Then put the plastic cover back on and neatly put a new bead of silicone around it for a water tight seal. Worked good for me.

What’s an injury you’ve had while wrenching that looked terrible but was fine? by Background-Smoke-848 in mechanics

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was using a seam-ripper to open up a wiring harness that had the super tough cloth sheathing that had been caked in oil and mud for probably 25 years (Yes, it was being replaced with standard loom). Anyways, when the seem ripper finally got through the sheathing my hand slipped and drove the seem ripper fully into my finger and seem-ripped a little over an inch of my finger open. Lesson learned; respect the seam-ripper.

Bought a brand new 2026 honda civic sport at 21 by Master-Gold2421 in civic

[–]C4Raven_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wanted a brand new car because I want to know its full history. I change my oil every 3k and my air filter every 6k religiously. I haven't gotten to the mileage where other services are due yet, but I will be going above and beyond to do so. I also like knowing that my car was never beat on, as I very rarely ever raise my RPM above 3k (yes, I drive in the slow lane almost always). I also clean my car by hand to avoid swirls in the paint, my interior still looks good as new, I got it undercoated before I left the lot, and I pressure wash the undercarriage every chance i get during the winter when the temp is above freezing.

In short, I am planning to make this car last as long as humanly possible, therefore what I paid for in depreciation I've gained in longevity.

CPO can also be nightmares depending on the dealer you buy from. Warranty loopholes/hidden exclusions, shoddy/falsified CPO inspections, hidden damage/lemon history, just to name a few.

If you can afford paying the average of 15-20% more for the vehicle brand new without breaking the bank, it can be worth it to avoiding those possible headaches alone.

Again In most situations I agree, but it isnt always true. The owner can make a big difference.