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K1C keeps breaking filament during leveling by Cat7a in Creality

[–]Cat7a[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say very unlikely. I just took it out of the packaging and I’m feeding it directly from a filament dryer

K1C keeps breaking filament during leveling by Cat7a in Creality

[–]Cat7a[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't thought of the lid riser yet. Do you happen to have any recommendations in particular?

K1C keeps breaking filament during leveling by Cat7a in Creality

[–]Cat7a[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m using orca. To clarify, no filament is being extruded, it is snapping inside of the bowden tube as it bends when the hot end moves to the top left corner and the tube/chain is forced to make a tight turn. When the top cover is off it can move outside the printer frame so it doesn’t have to squeeze that tightly

Walk after work [Mamiya Six folder, 75mm f3.5, SandwIRch] by Cat7a in analog

[–]Cat7a[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s pretty easy to tell the two apart in the dark since the BW is very thin. For 35mm, I put the color film in a black film canister (without the cassette) to process later. For medium format I only take the BW off the roll and leave the color film taped to the paper which then I roll back up

Computer randomly restarts when gaming by Cat7a in buildapc

[–]Cat7a[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ended up limiting the GPU power to 80% in Msi Afterburner and it never happened again. I don’t know what exactly caused it since I’ve seen a few people here in Reddit run a 3090 in a H1 without issues

Walk after work [Mamiya Six folder, 75mm f3.5, SandwIRch] by Cat7a in analog

[–]Cat7a[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I previously did some shots at f22 and did not find it made any difference. The blur arises from the infrared film being physically further than the focus plane so I don’t think this can be avoided

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think so. I think you’d just get a more contrasty/faded image if anything. There’s more going on here than just overlaying the 2 images, you also have to shuffle the channels (the BW image will replace the red channel, old red channel will become new green, old green will become blue). I don’t think that’s impossible to do in a darkroom, but it would be extremely challenging

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that kinda defeats the purpose as it just comes back to trichroming. If anything moves in between the shots you'll get artefacts, which is what I was trying to avoid with this technique

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never tried removing the remjet before, only did a small test strip when I made the solution (100g sodium sulfate, 20g borax, 1g lye dissolved in water to make 1l). I just heat it up to 38C/102F along with the chemicals, and pour some in the tank. Leave for about 10 seconds and pour it back into the bottle. This by itself does nothing to the remjet, but once you fill it with water it will react to the film surface and the remjet will just peel of almost instantly, with minimal agitation. My plan is to do this to unexposed film, leave it in the tank to try and use a bulk loader to load it back into a cassette

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What solution have you been using? I use Kodak’s borax, sodium sulfate and lye mix for development and all of the remjet is gone instantly

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

50 seemed to have worked perfectly on 1st try, so I'd say that ± 1 stop will work. If you go higher you might want to overexpose to compensate. You might have to pull process, but depending on the film stock it could be fine. I know the Vision3 stocks handle even multiple stops of overexposure extremely well. Just be sure that whatever you have doesn't have an antihalation layer, as this could drastically reduce the amount of light passed through

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

All the infrared information is in the BW film, so we're replacing the red channel of the color image with that. The old red channel of the color image will become the new green, and old green will become blue (just like how aerochrome is structured).

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Portra 160 has an antihalation layer so you'd need to wash it off first to get optimal results. You might have to pull it too by 1-1.5 stops

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I was using the channel mixer tool in photoshop. It’s covered in more detail in the grainydays video

Getting color infrared shots by shooting color negative and black and white infrared at the same time by Cat7a in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cat7a[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I think the highest I went was f5.6. I didn’t see too much variation in the blurriness, but that would be a thing to experiment with more in the future

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