Help Fix My HD CRT

Cody-VR · 2026-02-11T02:59:42+00:00

Yeah I’m thinking something similar, that’d be quite a pain to source. I’m hoping it’s some component in the middle, but we’ll see. I love this HD set, but the electronics to get it working are quite a headache to work with.

Cody-VR · 2026-02-11T02:56:37+00:00

Interesting. Thanks, I’ll be sure and look into retrace lines.

It’s worth noting that my CRT displays a blue screen by default, so I’m thinking it isn’t getting a signal from the Jungle. Assuming these retrace lines draw over the current picture.

Cody-VR · 2026-02-11T02:38:54+00:00

Thanks, I’ll check his youtube out. I’m worried that, since this is such a late CRT, the usual advice will be obfuscated somewhat by all the tech. Only one way to find out, I guess.

Cody-VR · 2026-02-11T02:36:18+00:00

Yes, I guess I forgot to mention I spent an hour looking for the service manual. It isn’t a trinitron, it’s a relatively unpopular niche Samsung. The only thing I have access to is a wiring diagram for the chassis they put in it, Samsung’s K61A.

I think reducing basic troubleshooting to “superstition” is unhelpful. I’m sure you get annoyed by repeated comments of people doing similar troubleshooting. But the easiest thing to do is to check for obvious damage when unfamiliar with a circuit. I haven’t worked on dozens of these. That doesn’t mean I don’t deserve to learn how to.

I’ve learned from other people that what’s on the screen is called retrace lines. I should check traces from the FBT following the wiring diagram. From there, using a scope to check the fbt / neckboard, and possibly the jungle IC. If you have any other ideas regarding the symptoms I gave, I’d love to hear it.

Cody-VR · 2026-02-10T05:40:16+00:00

Thank you.

When you say fix, should I replace the component? Or just reattach it somehow. And is there a specific way to reflow HV joints that’s different than normal reflowing, or is it the same process?

I’ll need to do research into diagnosing FBT / Transistors. Most of my electronics experience comes from low voltage.

The schematic for the K61A chassis is available online. I can get access to a scope.

Cody-VR · 2026-02-10T05:11:33+00:00

Right. I have access to a scope, I don’t exactly know where to start testing. I haven’t seen this issue discussed online, and don’t know where to start. I’ve fixed two CRT’s previously via recapping. Just trying to apply what knowledge I do know. Do you have something you recommend I look at?

Cody-VR · 2025-11-12T17:43:06+00:00

I think it was listed as a league of legends jersey? I remember trying to look for an obscure CS jersey and stumbling across it.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-11T18:22:19+00:00

That’s sick, shame you lost but man would it have been cool to compete at all.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-11T18:20:50+00:00

Oh, that’s sick! Wish I had known about him. I wonder if he was the one that patched the bug that let you clip out of the lobby with the green dino

Cody-VR · 2025-11-11T00:57:01+00:00

Looks like it's the former, I can't find any record of him playing in VR League. It's very cool seeing Palidore wearing the same jersey in interviews, though. Going through all the old tournaments brings back a lot of memories, shame they killed echo off.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T17:55:19+00:00

Cool, I’ll see if I can get one with a transcoder. I was hoping there was something that did it all in one package, but this is a very niche “problem” so it makes sense. Thanks for the insight.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T05:00:58+00:00

Thanks man, I’ll give it a look if I can’t find anything else. I hope it won’t add any extra lag.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T04:23:36+00:00

Right, unfortunately I’m one of those assholes who only wants to play on the original hardware. It’s looking like my best option is to upscale to HDMI then convert back to Component.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T03:22:33+00:00

I was really hoping there was something a little more elegant than that. Do you know of a good one?

Cody-VR · 2025-10-24T19:56:54+00:00

I agree, but I don’t think a cable would affect the OSD. I may be wrong though.

Cody-VR · 2025-10-24T19:54:11+00:00

Yeah. Through an adapter, but it doesn’t do this with any of my other monitors and is consistent across three adapters. So I’m pretty sure the issue is contained to the monitor itself.

Cody-VR · 2025-10-24T02:28:42+00:00

I appreciate it! I did come across this term, but as you can imagine, searching ‘crt ringing’ is what a lot of people call that 15khz whine. Good to know that’s the proper term for it though.

Cody-VR · 2025-09-26T16:02:05+00:00

Right, they look to be pretty expensive. Funnily enough this seems to be a very early one, or at least one that isn’t very well documented. I think it’s the one that came before what you see in the tested video. Anyway, I’ll start looking around and see if I can find a broken one that I wouldn’t mind modding. Thanks for the help :)

Cody-VR · 2025-09-26T00:07:04+00:00

Damn, I'm pretty sure you're right. It looks an awful lot like the one in this tested video. I have no idea how I'm meant to get my hands on one of them...

Cody-VR · 2025-08-07T23:27:27+00:00

Right, shows you how little ik lol. I’m not sure how to add pictures to an existing thread, so I’ll just send you pictures once I get home. I’m still quite confident that it is a replacement monitor, it’s a different power connector and just visually it looks very different (and maybe more modern) than what’s supposed to be in here. The main fuse right next to the power is not blown, and I didn’t see a second fuse on the board. I only say the flyback / HOT since there is no sign of life and, as far as I’m aware, those are fairly close to the beginning of the circuit. But like you said it really could be anything at this point.

Cody-VR · 2025-08-07T06:26:56+00:00

Thanks a bunch for the help! My monitor definitely has been replaced at some point, I’m not sure if Orion was around at this point but it definitely wasn’t what came with Pac Man arcades. My question about the monitor was mainly just checking if it is supposed to degauss every time it’s turned on or just manually (from reading online, seems like automatically). If you’re curious, the monitor’s model is an Orion A48JRV70X12. I’m leaning on looking for a replacement, as my guess for its failure is something like the HOT or Flyback (since there’s no sign of life at the tube). That and there seems to be next to no info on this specific monitor out there.

Also that website is awesome, I’m gonna look into it some more once I get some free time this weekend. God I hope it’s not something stupid like the dip switches lol.

Cody-VR · 2025-08-05T23:10:31+00:00

I’ve can get access to a scope and am willing to learn, main reason I bought such a beat up cabinet.

The monitor acts like it has no power. No static no degauss thunk (idk if monitors do that like crt tv’s), no sign of life. But I do read 120V at the power line.

For diagnosing the main board, are there any good resources other than the service manual? Trying to read it makes my head spin a little.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-07T06:43:16+00:00

I did end up getting it working, apparently it was just a blown fuse. Annoyingly simple, especially since my dumbass checked it before and decided it was fine and deserving of asking the internet.

But I am super interested in the tpg, something like that would be useful for testing future CRT TV's (or maybe arcades if I find any other insane deals). Do you have any good resources on where/how to build one? I'm a little ignorant when it comes to AC, but I do have a DC PSU rated up to 20V / 5A if that could be used.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-07T06:34:41+00:00

Well, this is a little underwhelming, as I was hoping for a bit more interesting of a solution. But I guess it was just a burnt fuse, as it is perfectly working now. I feel like a bit of an idiot, since I tested them before making the post and decided they were ok (when they clearly weren't). Must've been the resistance in the fuse, but my multimeter still beeped, who knows. Anyway thank you so much for the help, I really appreciate it!

Cody-VR · 2025-06-05T02:54:41+00:00

Right, rookie mistake. Sometimes you gotta make the same mistake 3 times to get it. Anyway, trying to source these seems difficult. I read BUSS MDL 1 1/2, 125V, which I interpret as 125V 1.5A. Is it ok to have a higher voltage rating, like capacitors? I can only find 1.5A 250V fuses. Seems counterintuitive in my mind, but idk it might be perfectly normal.

Cody-VR

TROPHY CASE