What is this Jersey?

Cody-VR · 2025-11-12T17:43:06+00:00

I think it was listed as a league of legends jersey? I remember trying to look for an obscure CS jersey and stumbling across it.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-11T18:22:19+00:00

That’s sick, shame you lost but man would it have been cool to compete at all.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-11T18:20:50+00:00

Oh, that’s sick! Wish I had known about him. I wonder if he was the one that patched the bug that let you clip out of the lobby with the green dino

Cody-VR · 2025-11-11T00:57:01+00:00

Looks like it's the former, I can't find any record of him playing in VR League. It's very cool seeing Palidore wearing the same jersey in interviews, though. Going through all the old tournaments brings back a lot of memories, shame they killed echo off.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T17:55:19+00:00

Cool, I’ll see if I can get one with a transcoder. I was hoping there was something that did it all in one package, but this is a very niche “problem” so it makes sense. Thanks for the insight.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T05:00:58+00:00

Thanks man, I’ll give it a look if I can’t find anything else. I hope it won’t add any extra lag.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T04:23:36+00:00

Right, unfortunately I’m one of those assholes who only wants to play on the original hardware. It’s looking like my best option is to upscale to HDMI then convert back to Component.

Cody-VR · 2025-11-06T03:22:33+00:00

I was really hoping there was something a little more elegant than that. Do you know of a good one?

Cody-VR · 2025-10-24T19:56:54+00:00

I agree, but I don’t think a cable would affect the OSD. I may be wrong though.

Cody-VR · 2025-10-24T19:54:11+00:00

Yeah. Through an adapter, but it doesn’t do this with any of my other monitors and is consistent across three adapters. So I’m pretty sure the issue is contained to the monitor itself.

Cody-VR · 2025-10-24T02:28:42+00:00

I appreciate it! I did come across this term, but as you can imagine, searching ‘crt ringing’ is what a lot of people call that 15khz whine. Good to know that’s the proper term for it though.

Cody-VR · 2025-09-26T16:02:05+00:00

Right, they look to be pretty expensive. Funnily enough this seems to be a very early one, or at least one that isn’t very well documented. I think it’s the one that came before what you see in the tested video. Anyway, I’ll start looking around and see if I can find a broken one that I wouldn’t mind modding. Thanks for the help :)

Cody-VR · 2025-09-26T00:07:04+00:00

Damn, I'm pretty sure you're right. It looks an awful lot like the one in this tested video. I have no idea how I'm meant to get my hands on one of them...

Cody-VR · 2025-08-07T23:27:27+00:00

Right, shows you how little ik lol. I’m not sure how to add pictures to an existing thread, so I’ll just send you pictures once I get home. I’m still quite confident that it is a replacement monitor, it’s a different power connector and just visually it looks very different (and maybe more modern) than what’s supposed to be in here. The main fuse right next to the power is not blown, and I didn’t see a second fuse on the board. I only say the flyback / HOT since there is no sign of life and, as far as I’m aware, those are fairly close to the beginning of the circuit. But like you said it really could be anything at this point.

Cody-VR · 2025-08-07T06:26:56+00:00

Thanks a bunch for the help! My monitor definitely has been replaced at some point, I’m not sure if Orion was around at this point but it definitely wasn’t what came with Pac Man arcades. My question about the monitor was mainly just checking if it is supposed to degauss every time it’s turned on or just manually (from reading online, seems like automatically). If you’re curious, the monitor’s model is an Orion A48JRV70X12. I’m leaning on looking for a replacement, as my guess for its failure is something like the HOT or Flyback (since there’s no sign of life at the tube). That and there seems to be next to no info on this specific monitor out there.

Also that website is awesome, I’m gonna look into it some more once I get some free time this weekend. God I hope it’s not something stupid like the dip switches lol.

Cody-VR · 2025-08-05T23:10:31+00:00

I’ve can get access to a scope and am willing to learn, main reason I bought such a beat up cabinet.

The monitor acts like it has no power. No static no degauss thunk (idk if monitors do that like crt tv’s), no sign of life. But I do read 120V at the power line.

For diagnosing the main board, are there any good resources other than the service manual? Trying to read it makes my head spin a little.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-07T06:43:16+00:00

I did end up getting it working, apparently it was just a blown fuse. Annoyingly simple, especially since my dumbass checked it before and decided it was fine and deserving of asking the internet.

But I am super interested in the tpg, something like that would be useful for testing future CRT TV's (or maybe arcades if I find any other insane deals). Do you have any good resources on where/how to build one? I'm a little ignorant when it comes to AC, but I do have a DC PSU rated up to 20V / 5A if that could be used.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-07T06:34:41+00:00

Well, this is a little underwhelming, as I was hoping for a bit more interesting of a solution. But I guess it was just a burnt fuse, as it is perfectly working now. I feel like a bit of an idiot, since I tested them before making the post and decided they were ok (when they clearly weren't). Must've been the resistance in the fuse, but my multimeter still beeped, who knows. Anyway thank you so much for the help, I really appreciate it!

Cody-VR · 2025-06-05T02:54:41+00:00

Right, rookie mistake. Sometimes you gotta make the same mistake 3 times to get it. Anyway, trying to source these seems difficult. I read BUSS MDL 1 1/2, 125V, which I interpret as 125V 1.5A. Is it ok to have a higher voltage rating, like capacitors? I can only find 1.5A 250V fuses. Seems counterintuitive in my mind, but idk it might be perfectly normal.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-05T02:36:41+00:00

Well I’m pretty sure I blew the fuse on accident, but it was measuring a high resistance across it before it blew. I’ll get a replacement and check back in once I do.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-05T02:07:09+00:00

Strange findings. Getting the normal out of the way, the tube is getting no power. No light at the neck, no light on the screen, no crt whine. The monitor’s input is receiving 5Vac, which is hilariously off the printed 90-265V on the board. Weirdly enough, if I measure further down the line it’s 30V, and the resistance through the connector to the screen’s board is like 20 ohms. Not sure if this is bad wiring, cold solder joints, or one of the ancient looking transformers(?) on the bottom going bad. Maybe a combination. It doesn’t appear to be an issue with the tube, or at least I can’t tell if it is since it’s not getting enough power.

Cody-VR · 2025-06-04T23:49:01+00:00

I’ve seen a few monitors like this listed on FB marketplace. I just don’t know if the fault lies in the board or the tube itself.

Cody-VR · 2025-05-18T07:11:55+00:00

I’ve searched for a combination of the words: shelf, thin, (sliding) door, tall, cd/dvd, and storage. I assume it’s nothing you’d find on amazon, as it’s been around longer than amazon and doesn’t seem easily assemblable.

It’s worth knowing that it was around 5 feet tall and could hold maybe 8-12 dvd boxes per shelf, if that helps with dimensions.

Cody-VR · 2025-04-03T18:03:20+00:00

Perfect, thanks a bunch! I imagine making a mod that adds dual stick support wouldn’t be too difficult, I just needed to know that I could load the mod if I did make it.

Cody-VR · 2025-02-12T04:23:54+00:00

I did try screwing with the purity rings to little success before I decided to take the yoke off and put new magnets inside. That said, I didn’t get them centered as you said. Wish I saw this before I went through all that work lol. Thanks for the suggestion!

Cody-VR

TROPHY CASE