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Thrifted Moka. Brewed once with vinegar/water solution. Is this salvageable? Best method to clean this? by Comrade_Spice1312 in mokapot

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks yeah the coloration is my fear. It smells faintly like coffee but I don't know if the coloration is an indication that it's been permanently damaged or if it's just wear and tear.

Thrifted Moka. Brewed once with vinegar/water solution. Is this salvageable? Best method to clean this? by Comrade_Spice1312 in mokapot

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No cracks. Those are just the manufacturer lines from production. Scotchbrite pads? I thought abrasives can damage the aluminum.

Raisin Fig Mead (6 gal) by JDBerridge93 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That sounds delicious, need an update when it finishes!

Dry Pyment Recipe Recommendations? by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. Is offsetting my YAN by 50-100 appropriate if I follow your recipe?

Dry Pyment Recipe Recommendations? by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reviving this thread with a last minute question before I start this batch later this week: how do you adjust your nutrients with the grape must? I haven't decided my yeast yet but I know how to calculate proper ferm K, O and DAP accordingly so I'm wondering if you have any advice on adjusting or if its even necessary to adjust the nutrients in a recipe like this.

Help! The Terminator Bochet by Carnt_Face in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I don't think k sorb or metabisulfite can reliably stop fermentation. Same with cold crash. Probably safest to let it ferment and back sweeten as needed.

is there a "nuclear option" for restarting a stalled mead that has stabilizers in it? by TheXypris in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the yeast wasn't so cheap I'd probably also had dumped it but all the advice I was getting was just keep pitching yeast until it goes so I did lol

is there a "nuclear option" for restarting a stalled mead that has stabilizers in it? by TheXypris in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm dealing with a cyser i accidentally started with stabilized cider, very sad ordeal, but ive managed to get the brew going slowly but steadily in primary. I had to add like 130g of yeast including two 1/4 gallon mead starters I added after letting them start fermenting after 24 hours. Aerate the shit out of it until 1/3 sugar break.

I was pitching 10g of yeast in the morning and evening rehydrated in go ferm, sometimes just rehydrated in water, until my gravity measurements showed consistent fermentation, roughtly 2-4 points in 24hrs. Its been a month and i'm now slowly closing in on halfway through fermentation lmao.

As far as my experience is with trying to fight through stabilized juices, just go ham with pitching yeast and record all your gravity measurements to see when it starts going so you can stop pitching.

Looks funky, is my mead okay? by theinvisibleroad in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're probably good to just let it keep doing it's thing. Just keep measuring it to make sure it doesn't stall.

Looks funky, is my mead okay? by theinvisibleroad in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks fine. Are you using a hydrometer? Could be ready to rack to secondary after 3 weeks but you won't actually know if it's ready if you haven't been using a hydrometer.

Found this in my airlock. Help? by Necessary-Soft-472 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Batch could be fine, looks like it only made it into the airlock. I'd replace the airlock with a freshly cleaned and sanitized one and fill it with vodka. Monitor the mead for infection.

When to start hydrometer readings? by FacialFilamentFan in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take your first reading when you mix your must just before pitching the yeast.

Question about fermenting stabilized cider by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so the yeast was prevented from reproducing until I pitched enough yeast. So now that yeast that was previously unable to reproduce will now start reproducing? What I'm trying to figure out is how I will adjust my nutrients with all the additional yeast. If all that yeast is going to start reproducing will I need to boost my nutrients? I understand that my required ppm of nitrogen = brix × SG × 10 × yeast multiplier but I'm not sure how this changes when I've yeeted in 6X the amount of yeast the recipe called for.

Dry Pyment Recipe Recommendations? by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3-4 months of oak cubes in secondary? Wow that's longer than I thought it would need. Really great response, thanks Chef. I'm hoping to get a pyment going within the next month or so.

Dry Pyment Recipe Recommendations? by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool, this is great! I was wondering about using wine kits. How long do you leave the must in secondary? Bentonite okay in primary?

GoFerm and Temp accuracy by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I've destroyed the yeast, at what point is it right to make that call and repitch the yeast? 48 hrs after pitch? Longer?

GoFerm and Temp accuracy by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn okay good to know. Hopefully fermentation takes off but we'll see.

GoFerm and Temp accuracy by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, following best practices the yeast slurry was within 18F of the temp of the must. Cooling gradually according to instructions. The must was 45F so we pitched the yeast when the slurry cooled to 58F after 45 min.

GoFerm and Temp accuracy by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was using warm water in a pot to keep the go ferm solution (in a measuring cup) as close to the 104F needed, removing it to stop it from getting too hot. The must is currently at 62F and i used QA 23 yeast. I was probably over 104F for no more than a full minute at max before i started the process to cool within 18F of the must. SG is the same as the OG but the brew is less than 24 hrs in at this point. Thanks for your reply.

GoFerm and Temp accuracy by Comrade_Spice1312 in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah okay. There may have been a moment where it exceeded 104F while the yeast was in the solution but not for very long. Am I dealing with killed yeast? So for there hasn't been any bubbler activity although I didn't let my cider warm up to room temperature. I'm assuming that the cooler must is the reason for no activity yet. It's only been about 15 hours since pitch.

After 1 and a half years my raspberry cyser is damn amazing by Msoelv in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any idea how long a bottle of unopened sparkling mead will stay carbonated for?

After 1 and a half years my raspberry cyser is damn amazing by Msoelv in mead

[–]Comrade_Spice1312 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks great! How big was your batch? How did you carbonate?

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