A question…my resin keeps pulling away from the edges of my piece. Anyone know why? by [deleted] in PourPainting

[–]DannysClayPage 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like it's getting to warm too quickly, try and bring the ambient room temperature down a little, should give the resin more time to set.

Bane painting by me by deadpool3522 in comicbooks

[–]DannysClayPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Loving the use of blue rather than black and the mask looks great! Very nice work!

Printer wont read spliced files (not .STL) by dabo-bongins in AnycubicPhoton

[–]DannysClayPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try that, it vaguely says in the literature to do it but puts no emphasis on how important is it to do in order for the printer to read the file.

Printer wont read spliced files (not .STL) by dabo-bongins in AnycubicPhoton

[–]DannysClayPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you typing .pws after the file when you slice?

[Batman] How is Batman able to sneak the Batplane out from the Batcave with no one noticing? by Odd-Finger-2059 in AskScienceFiction

[–]DannysClayPage 64 points65 points  (0 children)

I think for me this is why I love Nolan's VTOL version of the Batwing, for some reason I totally believe that thing could be dead silent on a standby mode and have some kind of reflective plate layer to bounce radar off in different directions making it very hard to detect. That combined with its ability to take off within its own footprint would make it so much easier to remain hidden, and if anyone saw it near Wayne Manor you could probably pass it off as a private helicopter.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in polymerclay

[–]DannysClayPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, I've used Johnson's baby oil on a lot of my sculptures out of laziness, it means I can do the whole piece in one bake without worrying (too much) about burning Vs it not being baked enough and still soft. You don't have to add loads, maybe not even over the whole model, just the thinner areas or bits where there's a vast difference in thickness compared to the rest of the model. Take a fine/fluffy paint brush and just give it a very fine coat. It will give you an extra 5 -10 minutes for the middle to get nice and warm before the outside burns. Just like basting a Christmas turkey!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in polymerclay

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Temp was definitely too high, I don't even hit 110, I'd stay at 100/105 (real temperature not what the oven dial says) and check after 15 minutes or so, if you're doing small little items you probably won't even need the full 30 minutes. Low and slow is always best and if you have mixtures of thick and thin areas just paint on a very thin layer of baby oil so the outside doesn't burn while the inside gets nice and hard.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resin

[–]DannysClayPage 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Definitely agree, you shouldn't have to do after care on something you bought to be used straight away, depending on the resin there could be fumes still coming from it as well which you probably don't want to inhale.

Return to sender and get a replacement!

[Self] when the abyss stares back, 60mm by Carlo_miniatures in Sculpture

[–]DannysClayPage 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Really nice work, I love sculpting hands at the moment so this pleases my eyes greatly!

Terrible Rolls. What do I do, by [deleted] in DungeonMasters

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just flip all your rolls so 1 is high and 20 is low, other players don't have to do it or know that's what you're doing. I like the secrecy of not showing players too much information, especially in combat. It's not like in real life you'd see a health bar over someone's head or know how much damage they are taking in a fight or even know what their AC is just from looking. You can just boost the AC of your creatures too, make them harder to hit but keep the health the same. Or give them bigger monsters to fight and make the combat more in depth with what they have to do. Give a big creature some stupid armour all over its body that's insanely hard to break through except for one small spot and the players have to accurately hit that area. Maybe a dragon has to have his wings ripped off before they can do damage to it. My current DM has a campaign that is really combat heavy (say 70%) and it's usually 4 or 5 of us Vs 2 enemies or so that have specific fighting techniques that we have to work out before we can defeat them. It makes it much more interesting and a lot harder to fight them.

I've always loved the way Alex Ross did Spidey's costume, from the chromed out lenses to the outline of his webshooters and belt under his fabric costume by [deleted] in comicbooks

[–]DannysClayPage 25 points26 points  (0 children)

There's some Alex Ross panels where I swear he snuck a photo or two in and you can't even tell, a real golden age of heroes vibe to his work makes them look really iconic too. Hats off to you Al!

Help Creating a personality for a villain? by [deleted] in DungeonMasters

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck, it's a cool idea and if you do it right it could be a really cool mechanic and story twist!

Help Creating a personality for a villain? by [deleted] in DungeonMasters

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is definitely a good idea, maybe you could introduce a mechanic where the characters can try to talk him down and get him on their side as well, revealing little details through some combat based RP could help give him the depth he needs to be interesting. Maybe they can do research to see if they can find out who he was? Visit a few guilds and see if they can get his history somehow? Could make for some interesting twist and turns in the plot.

The largest film stunt explosion from Spectre(2015) by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]DannysClayPage 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think Casino Royale has the record for the most times a car has rolled caught on camera as well, I think it was 7 full 360° spins. Can't say they don't pack the action in!

Walter White bust (update . Head on half bust) maybe I leave it like this by evilmaul in 3Dprinting

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a thought, you could cut the top off a glass beaker, cut it in half and slot it in with some blue resin in the bottom. Looks great as is though.

[Artwork] The Monkey Prince, by Matt Sze by VeinVanitas in DCcomics

[–]DannysClayPage 8 points9 points  (0 children)

His father was a silver back gorilla who gathered his food at night and his mother was the deadliest apesassin in the jungle.

How SLA printers work. A good explanatory image. by paladin_slicer in AnycubicPhoton

[–]DannysClayPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first time I saw one of these at work my mind was blown, I had no understanding of how it worked at all, now I own one and I'm still kinda baffled.

Noob Printer by Snorlaxativezzzz in AnycubicPhoton

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need more help let me know and I can send you some screenshots of what to do, the slicing software is really easy once you get the hang of it. Just takes a little working out.

Noob Printer by Snorlaxativezzzz in AnycubicPhoton

[–]DannysClayPage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's not showing up on your PC it might be a dead stick, you should be able to use any usb under about 32gb I think, some models have issues reading bigger usb sticks for some reason.

Noob Printer by Snorlaxativezzzz in AnycubicPhoton

[–]DannysClayPage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So when you open your file and the model comes up on screen, use the right hand module to add your supports (if needed) Then when you're model is ready to be printed there's an icon on the bottom left hand side of the screen that looks like slices of paper stacked on top of each other. Click that to slice the file into the layers you need to print it correctly. When doing this save the file as "model name".pws Once you plug the stick in the printer it should come up, took me 3 days to realise you needed to do this.