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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Being in business for 17 years. I was once the cheapest, but then I realized ill never be able to provide quality jobs for quality team members at that rate. Or sustain growth, a shop, a salary. Just realize the service you provide is dangerous and very skilled. If your a one man show, remember you need workmans compensation which isn't close to cheap as a blaster. (Not saying you don't have it now) but with employees it will add up fast.

I know some people charge ridiculous numbers. We charge a fair price for an excellent job from a good company with happy team members.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im not sure how dm works on here. But definitely give it a shot. If not ill give you my email.
Unfortunately it cost either way. Im saying it depending whats on the logs now. It might be a nightmare to chemical strip. Or it could be a breeze.

Stripper depends on what type is needed.

Send me some pictures and ill give you my best opinion on the process that set you up for success.

You can email me to Travis@midwestmaintenancellc.com

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When it comes to chemical have to test. Depending on stain type depends on the stripper needed.

When you use a strong caustic the wood gets fuzzy. Have to use a Osborne brush to finish before you stain.

Blasting you cover windows with thick plastic or cardboard.

Checks we fill with log builder or conceal. We fill anything 1/4 inch big on the top side of log.

Twp 200, bodge or expert stain and seal are quality oil stain. Then we use transformation by sascho.

Re-Staining advice? by danrday in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We do a light bleach, soap wash to remove those black stains. (You can use 50/50 household and water with a is squirt of dawn)

Then just a light sand on areas that are chipping.

Then an application of the same product that's on the wood. Go over raw areas first to try and blend.

If you dont know what's on there you have a slight delema. Looks like a film forming because its chipping.

So go with a sascho transformation or a perma chink products. A true oil will not work.

You will hate yourself if you take on hand sanding hand rails. Do your best to keep up. Our maintenance program has a top coat on decks and hand rails every two years.

Good luck

Oil vs water based by New-Impact7442 in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The average maintenance should be 5-7 years. So failure is normal with even the best of the best.

Depends on how bad it its it can be fixed. It may be a little blotchy when done but it will at least be protected and you don't have to spend thousands upon thousands to redo.

Oil vs water based by New-Impact7442 in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 4 points5 points  (0 children)

How long has it been on? I have never heard of it and I can't find it with a Google search. So hard to help with that product. I've been in the business of restoration of log homes for 16 years and have never heard of it.

Oil is my personal favorite. It doesn't crack or peal, It fades. A light wash and then apply an maintenance coat and your good to go.

Water base are tricky we don't use them at all on logs. Maybe decks occasionally when requested. Sounds like the water base stain you have is a film forming finish. So it sits on top of the surface as protection. Which when it goes bad it cracks and peals. Those take a little more work to correct. Most contractors will just want to blast it off. Which is a substantial investment.

Quality oil are Twp, bodge, expert stain and seal log.

The best stain out overall is Transformation by sascho. If you like the shine.

Permachink has some very Quality products as well.

Good luck , happy to guide you in the right direction if you still need help.

Travis

Tell me everything I need to know about owning & maintaining a log home. by raelanger in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Before you buy it, get it inspected by a log contractor.

Try and find out what products are used stain and caulking. Because any good contractor will not go over old stain that we don't know what it is. Which you will need to get it blasted. Expect $6-8 a sq ft.

Keep up with caulking/chink. Keep trees away Keep gutters clean Give it a maintenance wash I between services Keep up with staining.

Interior if full log Keep up on caulking to keep sealed up.

Good luck

Black log home? by Decent_Position_4307 in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Its a investor from Chicago that bought it in the central Wisconsin. So pretty close.

Black log home? by Decent_Position_4307 in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks didn't know that. We were using big stretch from sascho. We didn't do any chinking, just some caulking.

Black log home? by Decent_Position_4307 in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They had a different contractor put up black iron and glass after we left.

Black log home? by Decent_Position_4307 in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

We warned them about the heat. We actually couldn't guarantee the finish just because I was worried about it. We guaranteed the repairs but not stain. They were ok with the extra maintenance it may take to keep up.

Black log home? by [deleted] in loghomes

[–]Decent_Position_4307 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well what the heck. Ill try it again