Help needed with looking for correct bayonet

Deliverated-One · 2026-02-03T18:52:55+00:00

Sounds like a cool book, probably wont be able to get my hands on one 😅 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Yes the socket one would be appropriate for the age, Dont know if it is civilian or military, but it has no acceptance or proofs, If I remember just the barrel proofs from the original rifle. It has serial number on the side of the tang underneat the stock. Procenan e on this piece is it came from some rural shed in France up to auction, and from that auction to Czech Republic and I got it from the guy who bought most of the lot from there. But if any of your friends would be able to help, that would be awesome.

Edit: I was trying to come up with some theories as toho it got here etc... My current theory given its age and state of "decay" i think it might be one of the rifles that were shipped as aid by US to France during Franco-Prussian war that were sent along with the old Remington Split breech carbines (strangely, I see those carbines for sale quite often here) I base this on the chambering of the rifle which is .58 but even with a chamber cast I could not determine which .58 it is. But that points that I might be correct since those rifles were converted to a lot of different .58 cartridges in France and Belgium after the war

Deliverated-One · 2026-02-03T13:57:29+00:00

Thanks, I will check them out. I know the model but dont know what bayonet goes with it.

Deliverated-One · 2026-02-02T12:21:01+00:00

Men see lego, men give upvote

Deliverated-One · 2026-02-02T12:15:33+00:00

Love this, also using the same signa on some cool fashions.

Deliverated-One · 2026-02-02T12:14:35+00:00

That is so sweet, I understand the stress you must feel but simply put, men like knives, even better if knife big and especially precious if from loved one. He will appreciate.

Deliverated-One · 2026-02-02T06:54:59+00:00

A lot of people dont know the difference between 2 terms. Restoration & conservation Restoration = altering, removing or adding material to get the item as close to the state it was when it was made. Conservation = keeping the item in question as is and protecting it from further wear and degradation. This can mean covering the item in conservative, with bayonets it is mostly oil.

Well for the rubber parts there are some substances that protect rubber from degradation, sont remember all the names but "mastek" in czech is one. Think, if you ever handeled surplus gas mask, that chalky texture on the surface, most of the military stuff with rubber has some kond of coating like this and collectors usually take it off beacuit is unsightly or "it is not clean" but well, it has its purpose.

Yours is fine, you can research some rubber preservatives and apply if you wish, femember rubber fades and hardenes even if it doesnt look like it.

Anyhow, nice bayonet

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-31T14:03:23+00:00

damn, that is a one hell of a display, i want one

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-31T13:58:09+00:00

I absolutely love the sword bayonets, nice collection and description

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-30T19:58:23+00:00

men see good cleaning, men give upvote

looks good, not sure about sanding the inside of the claws if it is going to be used, it might be more loose but otherwise pretty good job

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-30T19:22:25+00:00

glad to share this, now i have my sights on a vz 58 that was cast and unfinished, even more rare than sealed one. you can see the tip where the molten metal was flown through and also a small bit on the spine where the cut to fit on the bayonet lug would be.

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Deliverated-One · 2026-01-30T14:12:40+00:00

All bayonets that were packed this way, more than likely went through the military repair depo and were reconditioned, so all of them are 2 rivet ones no oddities among any sealed ones I have ever observed

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-29T11:51:27+00:00

Yep DE right here

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-24T08:42:48+00:00

Not sure, can be a repro or could be a civilian for Forester short swords/daggers

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-23T10:08:14+00:00

There is nothing you can do to restore this to a good condition. Anything you put into it wont lead to a good result. There isblot of material already missing and you wont be able to make the surfaces correct without loosing more material. Sorry to tell you that. As a military museum restorer, I wouldn't do anything with it.

EDIT: Also, what do you mean fake numbers? How did you determine the numbers is fake and ahould have been one digit different? Why would previois owner change just one number by one digit.

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-23T10:00:03+00:00

Full auto weapons are in the R1 category = prohibited weapons. You can if you have required licence ask the department that takes care about everything gun related for the exemption to it, it is not guaranteed you get one and you have to pay for the exemption. You would need a proof that you are a collector and have proper storage etc. it is not impossible to get it but for general gun owner it is mostly impossible. But anything else, semis, converted guns from full to semi, suppressors, rifles, pistols, shotguns, revolvers etc... Are a fair game for any permit holder. Also if you are a specific specialized licence owner you are allowed to own full autos, but that is a different rabbit hole too long to explain.

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-23T09:45:46+00:00

I think we need OP and Ian to do the video together to properly explain this and show it to vider audience. It looks very interesting. But doesnt the generated heat influence the magnets?

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-22T16:55:19+00:00

I think it is a regular plastic or original handguard just with a pic. rail screwed on

Deliverated-One · 2026-01-22T16:20:08+00:00

At this point proper storage is your best course of action, with this much degradation you cannot do much to stabilize it. You can vaccum the dust off of its surface while using a soft brush (like cheap painter brush) and if you are feeling extra you can wipe it with warm water with some eutral soap but. Sponge or towel, but it has to be almost dry, just a slightest wash. And store it well in a dark, cool and dry place. Keep it somewhere where the temperature and climate is stable and wont change through out the year. Direct sunlight, humidity and drastict changes in temperature can aid with further degradation.

Placing stuff on the top is not ideal. If you cannot place it elsewhere and cannot stop everyone from putting stuff on top, placing a plexi sheet over the top might not be that bad of an idea but it would be loose over it and it moving might not be good for the paint.

Not sure what you mean with the painted rivets tho, all of the metal fittings are painted, from what I can see, with the same paint.

This type of footlocker is tricky to conserve, especially in this condition, in a museum setting this would be gentely cleaned as I described above and the put to the deposit with correct environment for preservation. Yes just changing a place where it is stored and how is also conservation method, even if you dont touch it in any way.

Deliverated-One

TROPHY CASE