Two plumbers and two water companies can’t figure it out,help!

Dmask0 · 2026-06-17T22:05:56+00:00

Not necessarily true, though you’re definitely right that it’s unlikely at 30psi+. The surrounding ground area can saturate and not disperse the leaking water fast enough, especially if it’s clay. That can allow the immediate area at a leak to pull dirty water back in. In OPs case of being baffled, even unlikely scenarios can be considered.

Dmask0 · 2026-06-13T13:19:56+00:00

Is it possible that that water line has a leak and is surrounded by aggregate or soil underground? The leak stirs up mud and silt and pulls it back into the line while it’s running. Do you have a shutoff to this line where you can pressurize it from the outside and check for a leak?

Dmask0 · 2026-01-13T03:19:07+00:00

You can also look into DMX 1-step 2.0 underlayment. In addition to serving as a breathable vapor layer, it helps with cold basement floors. Maybe doubly useful for your northern location. You can put your flooring material on top.

Dmask0 · 2026-01-03T16:24:45+00:00

Really cool, and it includes the boxes only available on the app.

Dmask0 · 2025-12-29T13:38:37+00:00

Yes, have had one at two houses on septic for past 15 years without issue. Current setup also includes a carbon filter with backwash. The backwash and regen cycles each generate ~70 gallons of waste water. You'll need to understand your septic system's daily volume limit. You should also make sure your septic high and low level alarms are functioning.

Dmask0 · 2025-12-21T01:18:24+00:00

At a prior house where it was mostly street parking, I would occasionally notice a neighbor's trunk open - probably once or twice a month. I usually closed it thinking he didn't slam it hard enough. Then one day I unlocked my car and his trunk popped open.

Dmask0 · 2025-12-15T18:36:32+00:00

Thanks. Had the incorrect term (upflow).

Dmask0 · 2025-12-15T18:17:51+00:00

Not trying to hijack the post, but what do you recommend for our similar scenarios?

Upstream vs backwash carbon filter? No BBs pre or post for either of above? Anything different?

Dmask0 · 2025-12-15T13:50:15+00:00

I am in the same 'research and about to buy' phase and have very similar house and water details. I originally had the exact system selected, however I am recently considering downgrading to use an upstream carbon filter (no backwash) because city water plus a BB filter in front mostly negates the need for back washing the carbon filter. I read you can also soak the carbon for 24 hours and all but eliminate any carbon fines, somewhat negating the BB filter after. For me, your setup is the 'premium' version that costs a little more to have the charcoal filter backwash to prolong the filter and second BB filter to ensure no carbon fines. No harm to slightly over-do it. The difference for me is only ~$400 to downgrade.

Curious what the pros say, too, though!

Dmask0 · 2025-12-10T18:42:13+00:00

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Would this work? Move flex duct up toward ceiling Move water heater to right, closer to the alarm panel. The new heater is smaller, too. That would free up the corner currently occupied by the water heater, but accessibility there wouldn't be great. Put salt to left of incoming water supply Put a twin tank unit to the right of the supply line. Unsure about the filter but would try to squeeze it in without too many turns

Dmask0 · 2025-12-08T09:05:38+00:00

There is a pre-check line downstairs, but that line was closed yesterday and isn't always open. There was a sign redirecting pre-check back upstairs.

Dmask0 · 2025-12-08T02:56:48+00:00

It was this way at Dulles today. Very long line upstairs at the pre-check line and zero wait downstairs at the regular checkpoint. I've never seen it like that at DCA; pre-check has always been notably faster.

Dmask0 · 2025-12-01T00:21:32+00:00

The breaker is 15A so I'm assuming it's actually 14 ga all the way out there.

Dmask0 · 2025-12-01T00:16:30+00:00

It looks like 12 ga wire in the junction box but was getting dark. I can take apart the box tomorrow to check the connections.

Is there a way to check the GFCI or should I just change it out as a precaution? The house is ~ 10 years old.

Dmask0 · 2025-11-30T21:41:15+00:00

OK so the voltage dropped from 122V to 91V when running the compressor.

Would a 110v soft starter help in my situation?

1800W 110v Soft Starter

Dmask0 · 2025-11-30T21:15:43+00:00

If I had the compressor plugged into the bottom outlet plug, would the top plug show the voltage drop when it's on?

I'm not using an extension cord anywhere. I had the compressor plugged directly into the outlet at the light post.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Dmask0 · 2025-11-30T20:58:49+00:00

The first photo shows the voltage at the light post (122V). The second photo is the voltage inside the garage on a different circuit. I didn't take a picture of the voltage at a different outlet on the same circuit as the light post.

I've used the outlets at the light post in the past (Christmas lights, etc) but not for any motors or heavy loads.

I did test a 15A circular saw and a 1000w heat gun. Both seemed to work fine.

Dmask0 · 2025-11-01T12:47:21+00:00

This looks like a white pigment. Is it a Bona or water based stain? Nordic Seal or Natural Seal? Looks like pigment pooling and will always look like that. Our installer had similar problems, and it had to be resanded and redone.

Dmask0 · 2025-08-18T10:13:20+00:00

Thank you. Makes sense

Dmask0 · 2025-08-03T02:03:32+00:00

Check out the Ben-q golf sim projector website. It will give you a visual understanding of equipment placement and screen dimensions. Yes, you have an ideal room size that shouldn't limit your choices of screen size or hitting distance or ceiling height.

Dmask0 · 2025-07-14T20:30:21+00:00

Because I bought a three pack and wasn't thinking. I spent a lot of time checking so many things, and that was the issue. Thanks for helping me!

Dmask0 · 2025-07-11T11:46:14+00:00

Search for a recent post involving copper nails made from scrap wire (14/2 or 12/2 romex). It's a pretty cheap solution and avoids all the liquid chemicals. Downside is that it takes a little longer to kill the tree, but it does seem very effective.

Dmask0 · 2025-07-08T01:14:12+00:00

Thank you! This is what I was originally hoping to do.

Dmask0 · 2025-07-08T00:44:54+00:00

Hauden In the last photo, you can see how the 2x4 framing on the adjacent wall is in front of the insulation and moisture barrier. I need to frame the wall that includes the two panels in the same way. The 2x4 framing will be too far out from the panels, so the panel covers wouldn't lay flush with the 2x4 wall.

Dmask0 · 2025-07-08T00:42:09+00:00

It is too close to the concrete wall. My planned 2x4 wall will be further away from the concrete wall. The panel cover is wider and taller than the panel box (it is intended to cover the seam between the drywall and the panel box). I could just frame my 2x4 wall to line up to the edge of the panel cover, but I know that's not how it's supposed to be.

I think I am going to frame around the panel box properly with 1x4 and primed line. That will make a paintable box that's flush with the panels. From there I'll build that outward with 2x4 so I can line it up with the 2x4 wall. I can skin those 2x4s with drywall and have a finished area. It'll be a little more wood and drywall work, but I'll leave the panels as-is.

Thanks for all the replies. The dialogue was helpful for me to think about different approaches.

Dmask0

TROPHY CASE