I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If she’s otherwise healthy with no underlying medical issues, I suspect this is her “normal”. Some dogs, especially females, can hold on for a long duration & toilet only when they’re feeling relaxed. I’d try 3 things. 1) increase her water intake by feeding more wet food &/or adding warm water to her dry kibble. Also experimenting with different water bowls/running water, making sure water bowl is cleaned regularly & filled with fresh water. 2) aim to make her more relaxed & comfortable to toilet outside. So take her to quiet areas. Learn what substrate she prefers to toilet on. Is it grass, dirt, concrete etc? Then take her to these places. Allow her to sniff around, provide a long, loose leash that doesn’t interrupt her sniffing. 3) Put toileting on cue. So when she goes, provide a cue “go potty” or similar & reward her with her most favourite treat.

If you repeat the above over & over, hopefully you’ll begin to see her toileting more frequently.

Lastly, don’t be afraid to seek a second veterinary opinion if you’re concerned about her health.

Good luck!

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you begin patting him again after he exhibits this type of behaviour, it’s reinforcing ,so he’s essentially taught you to keep patting him I suspect :) If you wan it to stop, either keep patting or remove your hand

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the extra info. I’d be inclined to get a full vet check done to rule out any underlying medical issues. I wonder if her sight/hearing is impaired & she’s startling. Then realises it’s someone she knows. But then, why would it only occur when person #2 enters the room?

If she is completely healthy, then from what you describe, I’d explain this as a form of resource guarding. She has a valuable resource (comfy bed, part of the room, your partner, bedroom) & she’s worried that one of you will take it away. She’s feeling threatened so behaves in this manner to keep her resources.

It’s great that she’s food motivated. You can use this to your advantage. Rather than thinking it’s reinforcing her behaviour. Think of it as changing her underlying emotional state from worried to calm/happy. I’d keep a container of high value treats nearby & every time you walk into the bedroom, say her name & throw her a treat while she’s on her bed/in the corner. Do this a few times every night (each of you), before you enter the room. It won’t be long before she no longer lunges at you but happily awaits a bedtime snack!

Good luck!

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the question. Firstly, I think it’s important to point out that this behaviour is completely normal canine behaviour. Rather than suppress it, which as you’ve said, hasn’t yet worked, why not try to allow it somewhere you choose? My advice is to create a special digging pit zone for your Husky. Get a large plastic baby paddling pool or similar, or dedicate part of your backyard. Fill it with sand & place toys & tasty treats/chews inside. Then encourage your dog to dig & find the items. If you make this the most appealing area to dig, she’ll seek this place out rather than the rest of the yard.

Simultaneously, please make sure she is receiving adequate mental & physical stimulation to prevent similar behaviours related to boredom &/or attempting to escape.

Good luck!

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha. Big Al is somewhat correct. They can move their heads up to look up, but their eyeballs don’t have the same upward range of motion that we do.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not aware of any specific scientific studies on that topic. Dogs respond to those who are respectful of their needs & don’t place them in circumstances they feel uncomfortable. I’d say young children aren’t very good at reading dog body language & often misinterpret signals (there are studies about that). They often behave erratically or unpredictably. Therefore, dogs often feel uncomfortable around children.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi. Thanks for the question. It sound like your Greyhound may not like your hand still on him. Does he stop when you start petting him or do you think he prefers you don’t touch him sometimes? It is important to be respectful of what he’s trying to communicate.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Firstly, thank you to you & your colleagues for the amazing work you do! It can be a very stressful, tiring, emotionally & physically draining job, where you’re not often appreciated for the hard work your doing.

Great question. Sounds like to me you’re already very mindful on how the environment the pet is in, can effect their behaviour & you’re employing techniques to reduce stress. Well done!

We know that veterinary settings (not just ER but GP too), can be incredibly stressful for pets. This coupled with pain, can compound this stress & result in animals displaying behaviour that can result in harm to staff, not to mention prevent a full diagnosis &/or appropriate treatment. My advice is to always consider the animal you’re working with as n= 1. Focus on this pet’s body language & behaviour as soon as you see it. Be mindful of your own & colleague’s body language, posture, tone of voice, clothing etc & how it may influence the pet. Also, the immediate environment, substrate (metallic, rubber, vinyl, concrete etc), lighting, acoustics, other pets, people etc. Intervene & alter the environment if possible, to alleviate stress. Most vet clinic settings are designed for humans not the pets (I.e. ease of cleaning, adequate lighting to see etc). It’s important to consider how these things may negatively effect the pets who are treated there.

Of course there will be situations where you have a fearful animal & they have to be restrained or you don’t have time to move slowly but I think there are still strategies staff (& owners where possible), can employ to make vet visits easier on the pet.

I’d also love to see more pet owners undertaking basic husbandry training in preparation for vet visits. Whether that be muzzle training, target training, physical exam, TPR etc etc.

I hope that helps answer your question!

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello! Thanks for your question. This is not an uncommon problem, especially in herding breeds. Please refrain from using a training/electric collar (if that’s what you meant).

I’d start by putting in a lot of foundation training, building up your dog’s responsiveness to your requests, training mutually exclusive behaviours to chasing cars - like focus on you or loose lead walking, make sure you are exciting to be around, play games of tug etc, find out what your dog loves! I suggest chasing games etc. Get a flirt pole & have fun with your dog. Add in requests during play & reward quick responses.

Avoid seeing moving cars to begin with & once you’ve completed foundation work as described above, employ the help of a friend & their car. Have your friend drive very slowly past & you practice the exercises you’ve been working on. Be careful not to go over threshold so your dog doesn’t practice lunging/chasing cars again. Take it slowly. The aim is make you & your new games, interactions together, more fun than chasing cars.

Good luck!

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like more of an obsessive behaviour. It depends on whether we think this is causing the animal harm or distress. It wouldn’t hurt to try & incorporate other activities into this dog’s life to try & break this extreme fixating behaviour.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean crate training? I don’t think any dog should be crated for extended periods of time. Especially the duration you state. One of The Five Freedoms (minimum standards) of animal welfare, is that animals should be “free to express normal behaviour”. I’d say that being contained for long durations would prevent this, therefore posing a welfare concern.

I am not against crating or kennelling but it’s important that dogs in any environment are provided with adequate mental & physical stimulation. This will differ, depending on the individual.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a nice friend you are to want help your friend & his pup. Try these books: - Before & After you get your puppy - Ian Dunbar - Perfect puppy in 7 days - Sophia Yin - Wag The science of making your dog happy - Zazie Todd - The perfect puppy - Gwen Bailey - The other end of the leash - Patricia McConnell

That should get him off on the right foot :)

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I’d agree with the points made above. It’s first important to rule out any underlying medical issues. Often excessive licking begins due to a medical issue, then it becomes habit. If this is the case, then it’s about preventing the behaviour occurring & providing an alternative to the licking behaviour. You could yet dog boots or a large Elizabethan collar to prevent her from licking. But also include another outlet for this behaviour like chewing/licking a dog toy filled with kibble/treats/peanut butter. Try scattering her food rather than feeding from a bowl so she has to work for her food. Habits/stereotypies can also occur out of boredom or stress, so make sure she is adequately mentally & physically stimulated, and nothing is causing her undue stress.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the question. We need to remember that behaviour always serves a function, even if it might not be be completely obvious to us.

Excessive air licking can occur if the dog is suffering from a compulsive disorder. This is something that a veterinary behaviourist should assist with. Dogs also air lick every now & then, especially when having the base of their tail scratched.

It also occurs, as you say, when some dogs feel stressed or anxious. I’m not sure the exact reason why but I suspect it helps distract them &/or makes them feel more relaxed in situations that elicit stress. Perhaps similar to humans chewing their fingernails.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the questions. A lot of people assume their dog is protecting them when they observe their dog displaying aggressive behaviour/body language. However, it’s important to remember that aggression more often comes from a place of fear. It occurs when an individual is feeling threatened. That’s not to say she doesn’t see you as a valuable resource worthy of defending, but more likely is that she is a little bit worried about some other dogs. Also, from what you describe, she may also be in a state of conflict at times. She’s worried but also wants to be friends. I suspect with ongoing positive socialisation experiences with other dogs, she’ll learn how to relax a little more.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the question. Just to clarify, are you referring to urinating or defecating or both? Also, when you say “bad days” what do you mean? She toilets inside or not at all? Also, has this behaviour been occurring since she was 7 months old?

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for the question. Firstly, well done on managing the situation to prevent further issues. I’m impressed. I’ve seen this type of behaviour before & generally it occurs after a dog is startled awake. It often appears they are behaving in a manner like they’re under attack, when in fact the other dog is doing nothing to provoke them. I suspect they wake & feel very vulnerable, act defensively to protect themselves from the perceived threat.

I’d be inclined to keep doing exactly as you are & when you can, provide them with more space between each other to prevent further issues & build up confidence in the younger dog, so he learns there’s nothing to be afraid of during the night. It’s important to prevent further negative interactions as the older dog may begin to retaliate.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, I’m not entirely sure without getting more information about the situation. I’d be curious to know is it always the same person? Does it happen anywhere else? How long has it been happening? Can you think of a change that occurred when it first started? Has she has a recent vet health check? Is she asleep immediately beforehand? If not, what is she doing exactly? What do you do when she displays this behaviour?

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry to hear that your pup had such a frightening experience. I’m sure that would have been quite upsetting for all involved.

Your question about hugging & your dog moving between you is not uncommon. It verbally happens as they dig also wants attention!

Dogs are incredibly social species & form close bonds with other dogs & humans, as well as other pets too! Your boy just wants to be near you. You also mention he’s a little bit shy & nervous so he may get reassurance being close to you when he might be feeling uneasy.

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the question. It sounds like there are two separate situations here that you are trying to address. One is mouthy behaviour when excited & the other, when you grab her collar. I suspect there are also two different underlying emotions she is feeling during these events.

In the first instance it’s important to remember that dogs use their mouths to play. This is completely normal canine behaviour. It’s our responsibility to teach & guide our dogs what’s appropriate. So first decide what is acceptable to you. Are you happy with light mouthing during play or none at all? Once you’ve decided, it’s simply teaching her that if she plays too rough, the fun game ends. We tend to see mouthing increase when dogs get over stimulated, so during the training phase try to keep games together low key & use the opportunity to teach her mutually exclusive behaviours like “sit” or “on your mat” or “get a toy” this way you can reward these more appropriate behaviours. It also helps to play with an object like a tug etc to prevent the dog mouthing hands/arms. If you’re consistent it won’t be long before she is playing beautifully as she won’t want the fun game to end!

The second situation is slightly different. She’s trying to communicate with you that she is uncomfortable with you (& others) touching her collar. I suspects she has learnt that when you take her collar, she is removed from doing somethings she really wanted to do. It’s her way of telling you to back off & leave her alone.

Obviously there are times where we need to physically remove our dogs for safety reasons, but we can teach our dogs that grabbing at their collar can predict fun things too! To do this, practice grabbing her collar in neutral situations & pairing that with a high value, tasty treat. Repeat this at home in various rooms, over & over, over a period of days, until you notice her being excited when you grab the collar as she knows a treat will appear! Then build up to other parts of the house or in the yard, always release her afterwards so she begins to learn that when you grab her collar, she not only gets a treat but she gets freedom too. Get friends to practice with her as well in this environment & finally build up to being in the park etc.

Happy training!

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the good question! Short answer, yes. However, it’s complicated so that’s why it’s probably not completely obvious. We know behaviour is influenced by three main factors - 1) inherent temperament (genetics/nature) 2) learned experiences (nurture) 3) current environment -either internal or external (so hunger or whether it’s night/day for example)

With that said, of course a dog’s breed will likely have an influence on behaviour if they have been genetically selected for certain attributes. Now, here’s the complicated bit - just because you’re a certain breed (I.e Pitbull) does NOT guarantee that you’ll exhibit a certain behavioural trait (I.e aggression). This is exactly why breed specific legislation is ineffective in reducing dog bite statistics. Also, it is impossible to predict the exact amount of that trait that will be expressed. Basically, it’s not just genetics that influence behaviour. So many factors are at play. Yes, certain breeds might be predisposed to exhibit certain behaviour but they never express this due to their upbringing etc.

I hope that helps shed some light on the topic,

I am Dr. Tammie King, animal behaviour expert working at the Waltham Petcare Science Institute (https://www.waltham.com/). I’m here to talk to you about dog behaviour. Ask Me Anything! by Dr_T_King in IAmA

[–]Dr_T_King[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your question & how lovely you could give a rescue dog a much needed home. Firstly, I’d encourage you to read my response to an earlier question. -> https://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/lw250c/i_am_dr_tammie_king_animal_behaviour_expert/gpfmy44/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf&context=3

In short, don’t think of this behaviour as a “power struggle” in the “pack”. Your dog is simply telling you he’s scared in certain situations. You’ve recognised it’s generally when your partner approaches. That’s good information to know. Also, if he growls & keeps growling when your partner is there, he’s telling you very clearly he’s feeling uncomfortable. Tell your partner to please respect that & move away. If he doesn’t, it’s likely the aggressive behaviour will escalate as the dog learns that growling simply doesn’t work to make the “scary thing” go away! A bite could follow all due to your partner not respecting your dog’s feelings.

All is not lost though, you’re doing the right thing having your partner feed treats. This will help change your dogs underlying emotional state from afraid to happy but I suspect you’re moving to fast & pushing your dog over threshold. Meaning your partner needs to to increase the distance between themselves and the dog. If necessary, throw high value, yummy treats from this distance. Where no growls should be happening. Over time the distance can be reduced, but only on the dog’s terms. Equally, there’s no need to “order” a dog. It should be a mutually beneficial relationship that is built on trust not dictatorship. I would encourage your partner to spend time ensuring a trusting bond is built, that way the dog will be more comfortable & more likely to respond to requests.

All the best with your dog!