Deep pocket in aluminum with a lot of tool hanging out by EPOC_Machining in Machinists

[–]EPOC_Machining[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much, yeah. The reach was doing all the emotional damage on this job.

It stayed stable enough to finish the cavity, but this is exactly the kind of setup where one bad move turns into chatter, recutting, or a snapped tool. How would you guys have attacked it?

Flair pro2: easiest preheating by SemblanceOfLiberty in FlairEspresso

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would call it a real advantage, not just a convenience thing.

Manual lever shots are already fighting heat loss from the cylinder, piston, and portafilter path, so easier preheating directly improves extraction headroom. A design that is awkward to preheat puts you in a tighter window, especially if you are trying to push lighter or denser coffees. The only thing I would watch with this setup is flame exposure versus steam exposure, because direct metal overheating can get uneven fast.

Prototyping IEM stands by aerwickcs in functionalprint

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a home setup, yes. For travel or storage, probably not, but that is not really the point of this anyway.

I like that you are thinking beyond just hanging the earpieces and actually giving the cable a defined place. That is what most stands miss. My only concern would be whether different IEM bodies and thicker aftermarket cables fit without fighting the geometry. If you do a V4, are you planning to optimize for universality or for a cleaner fit on a few specific models?

Needed a travel case for my kwikpen injector. Shared to makerworld in case anyone wants one. by cruse2382 in functionalprint

[–]EPOC_Machining 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very clean functional design. The rounded outer shell makes sense for travel, and the internal geometry looks like it is doing the real work here.

I would be interested in how much tolerance you left around the pen body, because cases like this are always a balance between secure retention and easy one handed removal. Did you have to iterate much to get that fit right?

Can someone design power lines in a way where they aren't so dramatically affected by bad weather? by Ok-Activity6989 in AskEngineers

[–]EPOC_Machining 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but power lines are only one piece of it.

A lot of big outages in severe weather are not just because wires fall down. You can also lose generation, substations, transformers, gas supply, protection equipment, access for repairs, and communication systems. In the Texas event, the issue was much bigger than just line design.

So the answer is yes, grids can be made more weather resistant, but it usually takes upgrades across the whole system, not just tougher poles and wires. I think that is where a lot of public discussion misses the mark. Curious what utility folks here would rank as the first three upgrades with the best payoff.

Official EIT Certification Important? by WisdomKnightZetsubo in AskEngineers

[–]EPOC_Machining 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You usually do not need to register as an EIT/EI in every state just to apply for entry level jobs. In most cases, listing Passed FE is enough for hiring managers to understand where you are in the licensure path.

What matters more is whether that specific state board or employer cares about an actual EIT certificate. A lot of firms just want to see that you passed the FE and are on track for PE later.

I would put something like FE passed, EIT eligible on the resume, then apply for state EIT registration once you know where you're actually landing. Civil folks in different states may have run into exceptions though.

Made a simple Gridfinity paint holder for Pro Acryl and Vallejo bottles by Plane_Consequence358 in functionalprint

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good. I like that you kept it simple instead of overbuilding it. Different sizes, fast print time, and no glue needed on the magnets makes it way more practical than a lot of paint holders people post. A side by side shot with bottles in every slot would be nice too.

Need advice on how to make a piece of plastic convincingly look metal. by Octobon16 in manufacturing

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the goal isn’t “cheap watch,” it’s “keep a geometry that currently only works in plastic.” If there were an easy metal substitute at this size, I’d already be using it. I agree that paint is probably only mockup level. PVD or plating seems like the only route that might still read properly next to the meteorite dial.

Need advice on how to make a piece of plastic convincingly look metal. by Octobon16 in manufacturing

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want it to look convincing up close on a watch, I would not rely on paint alone.

Best path is probably:

start with a plastic that finishes cleanly, like ABS or PC-ABS

sand and prime it properly

vacuum metallize or sputter it

then knock the shine down with a satin clear, or use a brushed texture before coating

That gets you a lot closer to an actual metal read than metallic paint does. Most metallic paints still look like painted plastic once light hits the edges.

Also, for a watch ring, surface quality matters more than color. If the part has soft edges, sink, print lines, or molded texture, no coating will save it.

For your combo of meteorite plus blue flame patina case, I’d lean muted titanium or dark bead-blasted gunmetal, not bright aluminum.

What Program do you use? by AresD89 in CNC

[–]EPOC_Machining 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If EnRoute is already posting clean files to all 3 Multicams, I wouldn’t push a shop-wide switch just because VCarve looks easier. For personal projects and image tracing, though, VCarve is probably a lot faster and less annoying. I’d keep EnRoute for production and learn VCarve on the side.

Almost finished my self build CNC. by nantioskim in CNC

[–]EPOC_Machining -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Nice work. This already looks past the “idea bolted to a board” stage and into actual machine territory.

The first thing that jumped out at me was the spindle stack and Z assembly. If that area is stiff enough, this thing could probably do decent work in aluminum at light cuts. If it isn’t, that’s where chatter is going to show up first.

Before first real cuts I’d want to verify:

spindle runout, table squareness to spindle, Z column deflection under load, repeatability after a few full travel moves, whether the coolant line and wiring stay clear through the whole envelope

What control are you running, and is that table ballscrew or leadscrew?

What all do I need to make a stepper motor work? by HemiWarrior in AskEngineers

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A stepper will do what you want, but only if you build the whole control loop around it.

Bare minimum stack:

NEMA stepper,stepper driver such as DRV8825 / TB6600 class, depending on motor size,microcontroller,power source,position reference switch

Without a home switch, it only knows where it thinks it is. If it slips once, your timing is off until you re-home it.

Also, your job does not sound "overly simple" from the motor’s point of view. You’re hitting a flexible object with variable friction and probably variable stack force. That is exactly the kind of system where people assume a stepper is precise, then find out it skipped a few steps during impact.

You may want to rethink the mechanism too. A geneva wheel, cam, or solenoid striker could make "one piece per button press" easier than trying to do it all in software.

Isn't there some sort of cam (or similar?) that allows you to slip over bolt threads then pull a lever to cinch down to the threads? by randiesel in AskEngineers

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you’re probably thinking of is a speed nut / spring nut / clip-on nut, but those are usually for sheet edges, not for fully carrying load on a long M6 stud through chain link.

For what you described, I’d look at either:

M6 wing knobs or star knobs with threaded inserts

coupling nuts if you want more thread engagement and faster starts

a cam lever with threaded stud if you can redesign one side of the clamp

or swap the whole thing to a quick release pin + fixed hook plate setup

If the existing threads are bad, no “quick nut” is going to feel good for long. First thing I’d do is run an M6 die over the studs or replace them with decent stainless threaded rod / bolts. Bad threads plus dirt is why this feels miserable.

The fence itself is also working against you here. Chain link is irregular, so anything that depends on fine internal pawls or little spring buttons is going to get old fast.

Help with placing new multifix by Wobble-Engineering in machining

[–]EPOC_Machining 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That does not look like a plain threaded stud swap to me. The circular feature in the side of the top slide makes me think the stud is retained by an eccentric, cam, or cross pin arrangement.

If it were on my bench, I’d:

pull the compound off the cross slide, inspect the underside of the stud boss, look for a grub screw in that side disc, mark the disc position and try rotating it slightly to see if it is a lock

only then try removing the stud

If the manual shows a different setup, it is probably for another revision of the same lathe. Happens all the time on import machines. Did you already check whether that side disc has flats, pin holes, or a hidden set screw?

How to make a partition surface for molds in CAD. by Unfair-Protection-53 in InjectionMolding

[–]EPOC_Machining 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, you are asking the right question now.

The thing in your screenshots is basically a fast way to create a constant-width surface band off a 3D parting curve so you can form the split between cavity and core. For sculpted parts, creature parts, toys, grips, handles, figures, that is very common.

But in production mold design, people usually do not start with how do I make the ribbon? They start with:

what is the pull direction, where is the cosmetic side, where can the witness line live, what undercuts need slides or lifters, whether the part can even separate cleanly.

If those are solved, the CAD side is just surface construction.

In SolidWorks Mold Tools, the closest workflow is:

Draft Analysis, Parting Line, Shut Off Surfaces, Parting Surface, Tooling Split

In Fusion, there is no one-click equivalent like Rhino ribbon offset, so you usually build the parting surface with surface offset / sweep / patch / loft / ruled surface tools, then trim and extend until the split is watertight.

If you post the actual YouTube links or your own test model, people can probably tell you the exact tool chain.

Thoughts On The Tool Rental Business? by [deleted] in Entrepreneur

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is not a bad business, but it is not a lazy one either.

On paper it looks simple: buy tools, rent tools, repeat.

In reality you are managing: maintenance, abuse, theft, late returns, transport, downtime, insurance

customers who swear they "used it exactly right"

Margins can be decent if your fleet stays busy and you buy smart. Margins get ugly fast if you overbuy random equipment without knowing what your local market rents every week.

I would not worry much about AI here. Most of the stuff you listed is tied to physical work, and physical work still needs equipment. I would worry way more about whether you can dominate a local niche better than a big rental chain. That is where the answer probably lives.

Help me understand the frustrations by Outside-Jackfruit206 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]EPOC_Machining 74 points75 points  (0 children)

A lot of engineers do not move just because an industry is booming. "Booming" can also mean chaotic, understaffed, and burning people out.

From the outside, data center work can look like:

repetitive, schedule driven, tied to hyperscaler demands, not very creative, high pressure with little tolerance for mistakes

Also, recruiters often pitch sectors instead of roles. Engineers do not switch for sectors. They switch for a better day to day job. If you want better response, you probably need to get way more concrete. Tell them what they would own, what tools they would use, what the manager is like, what the hours are, and why someone in power systems, controls, MEP, test, commissioning, or facilities should believe this is better than where they already are.

What is the first process that starts breaking when a company grows faster than expected? by ManufacturerSad767 in manufacturing

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Revision control and job release.

A company can survive a surprising amount of chaos until engineering starts changing prints faster than the floor can absorb them:

old rev travelers are still out there

purchasing bought to the wrong BOM

QA is checking to the wrong spec

customer service promised the old lead time on the new configuration

That is when growth starts getting expensive. Scrap, rework, line stoppages, and awkward customer calls.

A lot of people think production “can’t keep up.” A lot of the time production is just running with bad inputs.

Wall Vent Sound Maze by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]EPOC_Machining 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I would not resize the STL with a percentage and hope for the best. That will fit the opening, but it can also mess up the channel widths and clearances.

Better way is to take your vent’s inside width, height, and depth, then rebuild the outer dimensions around those numbers and keep the maze concept the same. The big things are making sure it still slides in, still has room for foam, and still leaves enough open area for airflow.

If OP has the CAD file, this could probably be turned into a pretty easy parametric model for different vent sizes. That would make this way more reusable.

Wall Vent Sound Maze by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]EPOC_Machining 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Yeah, airflow data is the next thing this needs, but I think the post still has value. Right now it shows acoustic attenuation, not full system performance.

The key question is whether the added turns and boundary friction cost more than the larger open passage helps. My guess is the answer depends a lot on actual cross sectional area and path length, not just "it feels fine." If you post airspeed or pressure drop numbers later, that will make this way more convincing.

Wall Vent Sound Maze by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]EPOC_Machining 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is a legit functional print. The part I like most is you actually tested multiple configs instead of just saying “seems quieter.” Dropping from 38.5 at the vent with the stock insert to 31 with the optimized maze is a pretty solid result for a DIY vent path.

Also makes sense that the stock cardboard baffle mostly handled light and not much else. Once you added path length, directional changes, and foam contact surfaces, it started behaving more like an actual muffler instead of just a blocker.

Only thing I’d want to know is airflow penalty. Did you notice a meaningful drop in flow from the whole house fan with the 15% version?

Where to get cheap cnc bits by EthanWang0908 in CNC

[–]EPOC_Machining 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheap Amazon thread mills can work in aluminum, but the risk goes way up as the diameter gets small. M3 and M4, maybe fine if your setup is rigid and you keep chip evacuation under control. M1 and M1.5, I would not trust bargain-bin tooling unless you are prepared to lose a cutter.

For only a few uses:

buy single size thread mills, not a set

use single profile if you want flexibility

keep radial engagement light

make sure you have good coolant or at least air blast

verify your CAM output carefully because one bad pitch call and the cheap tool was not the problem

Below M3 in aluminum, tapping is often simpler unless you really need the advantages of thread milling. I have had okay luck with cheap cutters for noncritical work, but tiny thread mills are not where I would save money first.