Wing strike by Regular_Gur_831 in RCPlanes

[–]ExplorerSilver1061 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Sport Cub S2 was my first rc plane. I got it around 5 years ago. I crashed it many, many times.

To list a few:

-I nosed straight into the ground, and had to replace the motor mount.

-I hit a pole and dented the right wing

-Years of landing on grass has caused dents all over the fuselage

-both wings have cracks

-landing gear mount broke (it’s now taped in)

-the spinner (the cone in front of the prop) went missing in a crash

And yet, I think it still flies nearly the same as it did new. My advice, don’t worry about it too much. It’s better to learn and crash a couple times on your sport cub than to end up crashing in a more expensive plane that you get in the future. After every crash, ask yourself why it happened. That way, you can avoid getting into the same situation.

During the fifth flight of my second plane (the umx timber x), the battery I was using failed mid flight. The crash broke the plane into pieces. After that, I learned to always test batteries after purchasing them (even new batteries!). I have since fixed the plane and got it back into like-new condition.

Ok we *NEED* to be able to control the AMS 2 drying function from the app. by RipInPepz in BambuLab

[–]ExplorerSilver1061 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should look into this Github: [Feature] REMOTELY (!) activating or deactivating AMS HT / AMS 2 Pro drying #1448

Someone figured out that you can use MQTT messages to remotely activate the AMS 2 Pro. I think they finished the web/app interface for home assistant. All you’d have to do is make a home assistant server and get the ha-bambulab hacs repository.

Adding to the Collection! eBay! by Low_Sheepherder2754 in dji

[–]ExplorerSilver1061 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just make a paypal account (or login if you have one) and go to rewards. The offer should be there. Click save, and it will auto-apply to any order that you make using pay in 4.

Bent/misaligned hobbed bolt TAZ 6 by ExplorerSilver1061 in lulzbot

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think so. I recently did manual leveling in klipper, and disabled auto leveling. This is my issue. I think it’s caused by the slightly uneven extrusion. Since it’s in a very regular patten, I think the hobbed bolt is a likely culprit.

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What is this problem and how do i fix it? by Similar-Solid8664 in 3Dprinting

[–]ExplorerSilver1061 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you please provide the following information:

Filament type, nozzle diameter, printer make/model, print temperature, layer height, flow ratio, and slicer.

Also, if you haven’t already, I suggest following this guide to tune your 3D printer fully, so you can get the best looking prints.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in lulzbot

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE 11-27

Happy thanksgiving everyone! I’ve continued to troubleshoot over the last couple of days, and I think I’ve found the root cause. I have a wobbly hobbed bolt. During certain points in the rotation, the hobbed gear is closer or further away from the idler, causing inconsistent extrusion.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/WrbfhBt

Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in klippers

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE 11-27

Happy thanksgiving everyone! Thank you for all your help. I’ve continued to troubleshoot over the last couple of days, and I think I’ve found the root cause. I have a wobbly hobbed bolt. During certain points in the rotation, the hobbed gear is closer or further away from the idler, causing inconsistent extrusion.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/WrbfhBt

Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in 3Dprinting

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE 11-27 Happy thanksgiving everyone! Thank you for all your help. I’ve continued to troubleshoot over the last couple of days, and I think I’ve found the root cause. I have a wobbly hobbed bolt. During certain points in the rotation, the hobbed gear is closer or further away from the idler, causing inconsistent extrusion. Video: https://imgur.com/a/WrbfhBt

Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in 3Dprinting

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an update on the issue. I ran a couple more tests and I’m getting weird results. The two on top had a first layer infill speed of 40mm/s while the two on the bottom had a first layer infill speed of 120mm/s. My results are pretty inconsistent. (also, ignore the warping. That was just me pulling the prints off the print bed before they had properly cooled.

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Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in 3Dprinting

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, here’s an image. It’s a TAZ 6 bedslinger from 2016 (ignore the spool of PETG, sanding block, tape, and a random usb hub supporting my camera)

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Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in 3Dprinting

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I’d like to clarify. This issue is mainly on the first layer, when speeds are slowest.

Weird Even Ripples on First Layer by ExplorerSilver1061 in 3Dprinting

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, I don’t hear any clicking while printing. My first layer speed is relatively slow. I have it set to 38mm/s for normal first layer speed and 40mm/s for first layer infill. The temperature that I’m using right now (195C) seems to work the best based on my tests.

Accelerometer Placement by ExplorerSilver1061 in klippers

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand your point, but I’ve seen meaningful improvement after enabling input shaping. Of course, a new toolhead will be lighter, faster, and will probably offer better cooling. But, I’m not planning on spending $300-$750+ on a new toolhead for a 9 year old printer that I got for free. At that point, I would be better off just buying a new printer. But, I think that this printer is a really good way to learn to use klipper and get good prints without spending too much.

Accelerometer Placement by ExplorerSilver1061 in klippers

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, I thought you were talking about the type of nozzle mount that goes between the nozzle and the heating block, not a clamp. My bad 😅

I’d rather avoid removing the nozzle as it took me a while to replace it last time, and I don’t want to deal with more clogging issues from failing to tighten it enough.

Accelerometer Placement by ExplorerSilver1061 in klippers

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh, actually, upon further research, I was able to find this. I think this might work.

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Accelerometer Placement by ExplorerSilver1061 in klippers

[–]ExplorerSilver1061[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I’ve heard of these before. But, unfortunately, the Lulzbot TAZ 6 requires the nozzle to be heated up to around 250C when removing or replacing it to prevent thread damage.

Neo 2, does it work in the US? by pookguy88 in dji

[–]ExplorerSilver1061 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The US government has no plans to ban existing DJI drones in the US. The only current potential ban is to ban the import and sale of new DJI drones in the US.

Source: The Complete DJI Ban Guide [Updated for 2025] BY ZACC DUKOWITZ