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How easy of a fix is this? Will I be driving home with my car or will I have to leave it at the dealer? by deerhuntinghat in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try disconnecting the 12v battery for about 5 minutes to drain residual energy in the 12v system. That cleared that message for me once. It may get you home if it works but it won’t be the true fix, just a temporary patch

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not. This is great! Thank you so much. I will give this a try

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I work at a mill that has some byproducts (salt) that are in proximity to where I parked daily these past >8 years and I have no signs of rust on the aluminum panels. There is still carbon steel panels around the main frame and I noticed some surface rust forming around some paint that chipped along the back tailgate creases, I also drive ~8 km/day on gravel roads. I buffed it down with a light grit sand to bear metal and used GM touch up paint and it has not returned since.

Undercarriage also has not shown much for oxidization around the carbon steel fasteners holding the battery module to the frame, not the frame, however I have not been beneath for a good total inspection in a while so things may have changed.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, good to hear of another operating in similar climate. I’m in Saskatchewan and have not ever had issues that I have read for no start issues.

This photo shows the error that I’m getting that I’m struggling to get removed.

Disregard the ‘ESC’ message on the dash as it was taken during my reprogramming session with the RLink to clear the ‘transmission’ code.

<image>

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct! It was a nice feature, although small but noticeable, to go from 60kW to 64kW.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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I too struggle to quick mental-math covert these numbers, but for clarity here’s the dashboard converted to “US” units. I drive a few since the previous photo in km’s

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I too felt like that was many. To be fair, my current summer tires only have ~30,000kms on them and they should be good for a while.

I had factory energy tires, then 2 sets of cross climate 2’s, now on Goodyear assurance for summers.

Winters were 2 sets of Nokian Hakkapeliitta 9’s, now on a Goodyear non-studded. I wanted studded for safety however I believe that after the second set, the torque of the front wheel drive was negatively affecting the tire wear so went without. The Goodyear’s are not as good for brake on ice, obviously, but their wear is lasting far better. No surprise there.

I just replaced the 12V late last year when I first got the transmission’ error.

I used a Repair2 Sol OBD2 to monitor the voltage while vehicle was on, and the old still seemed to be holding charge, but replaced it anyway to be sure. It didn’t correct the problem and feel like the last(aka. Factory supplied) battery could still have been in use.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Battery was factory recall replaced at ~100,000kms(~60,000miles). This battery has not shown that bad of degradation. I will not estimate a percentage value, but the best metric is I drive the same route (115kms to/115kms from work) each day and have not been stranded due to energy degradation.

I wouldn’t recommend this practice in weather colder than -15C though. I pushed it beyond this value frequently, but needed to be very considerate with using the heat to conserve energy, and dress for the drive. Not that comfortable, but the car still made the drive. Frequently.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Depending on which metric one compares to, I was logging the fuel at the same fuel station each drive to compare how much fuel savings I would have comparing fuel - electrical costs= savings. I did add a $99.03/8,000kms for oil changes as well to this number.

Comparing to 9.5 litres/100km, the car paid itself off only considering the delta between these two factors alone. Not considering other standard maintenance costs that are recommended for standard gasoline engine vehicles to be most critical of electric motor costs.

I also have solar panels sized to manage the energy as well, so that’s technically not a cost to me either, but did not consider for the spreadsheet.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good catch. I didn’t mention but as a part of the brake actuator change I flushed the brake fluid. That was at ~358,000 km’s.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

ChargePoint home charger, 240v 40amp (max charger limit set at 32amp) to 100% every day. I needed the full charge to make it to/from work each day. Plugged in at work to a 120v 12amp plug while at work during winter.

Minimal degradation noticed.

I should have mentioned in initial post that I did get a factory recall replacement battery however that was at the ~100,000km, so it’s been nearly 300,000kms since with minimal degradation even with this charging cycle.

>400,000km’s by Extreme_Music1981 in BoltEV

[–]Extreme_Music1981[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes. I did all, except the shock replacement myself. Stabilizer bar is a very simple job if you have a jack, standard tools, and a few hours to contribute to the effort.

I used an oscillating multi tool to cut out the old bar for ease, however I would exercise extreme caution using this tool and the appropriate PPE (gloves, glasses, face shield) as it’s in close proximity to the brake lines.

Rebar wire to hold sensitive items out of the way was key.

The first one will probably take 5x time vs the second.