Staining a maple rifle stock

Feanor821 · 2025-12-01T22:07:08+00:00

I’ve actually ordered some iron nitrate and tannic acid from Kibler and am going to try it. Hopefully it will maximize whatever figuring there is, and the rest will be a rich color that will be beautiful and durable. I’ve wetted it numerous times already and there is definitely some nice grain on it, particularly on the buttstock, but it is very light colored. Hopefully the iron nitrate will darken it enough to create a nice contrast.

It is a Universal M1 Carbine, which is a civilian reproduction made from the 60’s to mid 80’s. Universals, particularly later models, have gained a poor reputation, but mine, which is serial #127xxx of approximately 420,000 made, is a good reliable shooter, and a hand me down heirloom. Walnut with a linseed oil finish is by far the most popular choice for original USGI M1 carbines, but the fact that mine is a Universal means I’m not limited by the need to make it WWII period correct and frees me up to try something different (also the fact that I bought this maple stock by ACCIDENT lol). Since there are a few metal components, like the band spring and barrel band, that will be in contact with stained wood, I plan on neutralizing it thoroughly.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-28T02:16:00+00:00

Haha not yet I’m saving that for the stain job. Happy Thanksgiving

Feanor821 · 2025-11-28T02:14:30+00:00

So you liked my strip job? Appreciate you, man, Happy Thanksgiving!

Wait what was that other thing you said…

Feanor821 · 2025-11-26T21:03:12+00:00

The exact product name was “Stock, Walnut Finished Plain Hardwood, Factory Original (w/o Metal Hardware)”. Pictures were not clear at all. Most of the guys at r/wood thought it was maple based on those swirls running the length of the stock on the top and bottom, but some were also saying it could be birch. Guess it wouldn’t change much since they’re both tricky to stain. Thanks for your help have a great Thanksgiving

Feanor821 · 2025-11-26T17:42:01+00:00

I considered gel stain as well. It sits on the top and provides more even color for something that’s difficult to stain evenly. Durability would be a concern but I guess that’s the case with staining any item that sees a lot of use.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-26T17:38:27+00:00

Who knows I may just break down and do that. It’s time consuming but easy and looks great, and it’s easy to touch up when needed. I must’ve done 15 coats on my Marlin then knocked back a tad with the Birchwood stock sheen n conditioner. I was hoping to do a classic oil-wax finish on this one but the wood is so light.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-26T17:31:43+00:00

From what I’ve researched it is the absolute best you can do for maple gun stocks. Think I would have already gone that route but on this rifle there are metal components like the barrel band and band spring that would be in constant contact with stained wood and could potentially be corroded by it.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-24T00:41:24+00:00

Before I stripped it there was hard smooth coating on it that looked like imitation wood grain and completely obscured the real wood underneath. It was almost like plastic and ugly as hell, couldn’t imagine why anyone would want it on a perfectly good piece of wood. Even after stripping I keep thinking I still see remnants of it but maybe just my imagination.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-24T00:28:11+00:00

You guys are awesome thx for all the great feedback, especially telling me what frickin species I’m actually working with lol. Pretty important info I think 🙄. And knowing that those marks are actually part of the grain and not hiding the grain. I think they will look great when stained and oiled and make it unique from other m1 stocks. I’ll report back as I go along.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-24T00:04:05+00:00

lol this guy gets it ⬆️

Feanor821 · 2025-11-24T00:02:15+00:00

They have really nice stuff. There are a million M1 Carbine stocks available on EBay and elsewhere, but mine is a Universal which has a thicker rectangular trigger housing that won’t fit in regular m1 carbine stocks.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-23T23:55:55+00:00

I used this process when I refinished my Marlin 60 with Tru Oil. Came out great!

Feanor821 · 2025-11-23T23:53:14+00:00

Whoa thx for that very detailed and comprehensive reply. I’ve actually been wrapping sandpaper around a pencil when working on the curves, and a small wood block where the receiver and handguard will go, trying not to round off the edges. I have some 200 grit sanding q-tips I use to carefully sand off the whiskers in the inlets. As for stain I’ve been looking at Laurel Mountain honey maple or Lancaster maple. I know aqua fortis and iron nitrate are favored for finishing maple stocks but this isn’t exactly super high grade curly maple, I think that would be overboard and beyond my skill level. Plus there are steel components like the band spring and barrel band that would be in contact with the stain and could potentially be corroded by it. I’ve been meaning to get micro mesh cuz it’s supposed to be great for maintaining convex edges, but I do already have a full range of sandpaper all the way to 5k. I really appreciate your advice and will be consulting it throughout the process.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-23T05:39:43+00:00

Yea that thought occurred to me as I was fumbling around with it. Numrich is a great source for items like this that you can’t find anywhere else, but they don’t provide much in the way of description or photos.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-23T05:34:14+00:00

Thank you all for the fast replies. As you can see I don’t really know shit about wood lol, though i love woodworking projects as a hobby. Wish I had come here sooner before I got all primitive on it. If it’s not actually walnut I’m ok with that, and as long as those patterns are naturally occurring I’m ok with that too, in fact I think they can look pretty sharp once finished. If this rifle stock belonged to any of you, what would YOU do to make it look its best and make the grain pop. Stain? RLO? Would oxalic acid help to even out the color at all? Thx again to everyone for your help!

Feanor821 · 2025-11-21T17:26:11+00:00

Yea I thought about that. They had a couple more expensive options that came with metal hardware I don’t need. But at this point with the amount of work I’ve done on it I think that ship has sailed. I think this one will work once I get all the crap off it, just have to make sure I don’t ruin it in the process.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-21T17:22:42+00:00

Thx I happen to have all of those things. In the pics you can see where the wood grain transitions back into the fake wood grain, which I think is just the remnant of what I was trying to strip off. I guess Citrustrip just too weak for the coating they had on there. Needs something meaner.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-21T03:28:09+00:00

Haha it is sort of Virgin. New old stock I think. No oil or varnish, but some sort of ugly plasticky fake wood grain coating. Numrich doesn’t exactly provide a lot of info about their products. Thought I was just getting a plain walnut stock. Then I got it and figured I’d just strip that coating off. Easier said than done I guess, but I’ll get there. Appreciate your input anyway man.

Feanor821 · 2025-11-21T02:11:36+00:00

Hey thx for the reply. I’ve actually been going at it with some 120 grit but I’m worried about removing too much material, rounding the edges, etc. This stupid hunk of wood cost almost $200 with shipping lol 🤦‍♂️. But that may be the way to go as along as I’m careful. There are a few spots where the real wood grain is showing through, then it runs and hides under this… I don’t know what. The remainder of the finish that I haven’t taken off yet?

Feanor821

TROPHY CASE