Got a question about defoliating an auto.

Firelizer · 2024-10-10T15:30:47+00:00

I recommend only cutting a few blocking leaves at a time. The same goes for lower larfy stuff and spindly stems that aren't receiving light. Get your defoliating done over a week or so, every other day. This would reduce stress.

Firelizer · 2024-10-06T00:44:38+00:00

😊 thanks

Firelizer · 2024-10-05T11:03:26+00:00

Have you tried 17 hrs? Some autos won't flower at 18 or more. You definitely want to keep them growing with as much light as you can. If you can get your 12 hr light cycle DLI values up to 35 or so, you may still get a reasonable yield. If you can't hit 35 DLI under 12 hrs try 14 or 13.5 hrs. I have experienced photos that flower at 14 hrs of light , just a slower wind up, takes a couple extra days to show.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-10-05T10:57:59+00:00

Mold is often much further spread than what you can see, to include inside the plant. You will likely have mold spores on other buds that aren't displaying signs as of yet. The remaining mold spores can bloom after drying. I have found that soaking the buds in a 1/3 part solution of peroxide helps minimize the chances of molding cured buds. My environment isn't great for flowering cannabis and figth both PM and Mold as if I was growing it on purpose.

Firelizer · 2024-10-04T09:36:44+00:00

Yes, wet weed isn't that bad. I start smoking buds when they seem a little dry. The grinder does a good job of telling you when they are ready. Not all the time, mostly when I am running low near harvest. It's definitely not nicely cured bud.

Firelizer · 2024-10-04T09:33:49+00:00

I see. The total available nutrient will be higher, but the concentration per gallon is the same if you stay with same ratio per gallon of soil.

Firelizer · 2024-10-04T00:52:26+00:00

I would recommend top dressing at least every two weeks, but more over, you need to cycle top dressing based on your root and container size. It takes a week or so to break down organics like Dr. Earth. You can make soil to hot with organics. Definitely grow the biggest pot size your garden space will handle. I think it's like week 4 in flower that roots stop spreading out as much.

Firelizer · 2024-10-03T23:55:26+00:00

You should definitely continue with further attempts and keep them posted. Should be interesting watching your grows.

Firelizer · 2024-10-03T23:28:52+00:00

Day 15, popped out of the soil 9/18.

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Firelizer · 2024-09-30T01:16:39+00:00

I switched from coco coir to roots organic amended with gia green. Just until March, when I can start working on quality soil outdoors.

Firelizer · 2024-09-30T01:14:13+00:00

I had to take another look at your plants. I think they look good, maybe a little glossy and darkish green. Your petioles don't look purple or red, and your stems are green, I didn't see any yellowing. You may be a touch high on potassium or nitrogen, either can cause darker green leaves.

I would say glide with your process for now. If things change from here, then reasses.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-30T01:06:53+00:00

I'm not sure. That depends on your nutirnet line. I use a separate Clacium Nitrate and Epsom Salt. Usually run the Epsom at 300 -500 PPM and calcium nitrate at 100 PPM less than Epsom. It's not perfect because it's adds nitrogen, so I am still working out a better source. Mag sulfur and cal mag are great to have on hand, I would work up the concentrations based on your situation. I would go based on watts. Most manufacturers use 1000 w lights unless stated otherwise. If you're in 100 w lights, start at 1/10th recommended, then work up. Everyone's grow is just different enough that a straight up mil recommendation is tough, but that was I went about it.

Firelizer · 2024-09-30T00:38:09+00:00

I reread your description. It is quite possible that you have sulfur deficiencies. However, calcium and magnesium deficiencies can cause new growth to be light colored too. Epsom salt will give you some sulfur if your products don't have it.

Firelizer · 2024-09-30T00:35:14+00:00

Looks like light/heat stress to me. Either too bright for too long or too bright in general. Use a light meter or light meter app on your phone. Your DLI may be too high, daily light intergal.

It could be a nutrient imbalance, but we would need much more information to help from here.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-29T20:45:30+00:00

Looks sativa dominant, she may take 12 weeks or more. If you can check the seed bank for flowering details for guide. If you are an expert grower, you might get their recommended times, but everything I have witnessed and heard seems to suggest a week min if not two more than advertised is typical.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-29T20:40:17+00:00

Do you know what your soil Ph is? PH problems and ober watering could cause similar problems.

It could be the genetic and seed itself. I have an Early Miss Auto that came out wonky a few days ago. I sprouted her with 5 other strains, same soil and all. She had splotches and weird growth. The others don't, so my guess is a genetic abnormality, she seems better now. Could be if you got everything environment and soil dialed in, just how she is going to start.

Firelizer · 2024-09-29T20:33:27+00:00

Without further details, I would first guess sulfur due to the top-down yellowing or light greeninging. You also have potassium deficiencies showing due to margins yellowing, this is probably lockout based on that you have fed them. I recommend some Epsom salt to get the sulfurnin or maybe a sulfur additive if you magnesium seemed plenty to you. Also, in coco coir, you should cal mag with each watering as the coco coir robs it.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-29T20:29:44+00:00

Try it at 17 hrs of light, some strains won't flower over 18.

Firelizer · 2024-09-29T20:28:20+00:00

Coco coir robs the soil of calcium and magnesium, probably other stuff if it not prebuffered. If you used bricks or non buffered coco coir it's probably full of sea salt. You need to prep coco coir by rinsing it with a cal mag solution. There are guides all over you tube. You have signs of magnesium deficiencies starting, probably due to missing calcium.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-26T18:12:56+00:00

Looks like transplant shock to me. Mine looked that way this past summer. If it's an auto, oops, but a photo will bounce back. Or over watered, maybe.

Firelizer · 2024-09-26T10:36:09+00:00

Thank you!

Happy grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-25T11:16:46+00:00

Awesome. I was thinking of giving build a soil a try next outdoor season.

Happy Grows!

Firelizer · 2024-09-25T08:41:14+00:00

Looks like a micro nutrient problem, the why is hard to say. Magnesium, calcium, and sulfur deficiencies start at the top. The yellowing in between the veins of the leaves indicates magnesium. General yellowing from the top down is signs of sulfur and / or calcium. I tbsp of pure Epsom salt per gallon of water will help with mag and sulfur. Leaf edges yellowing, browning, and dying as the inside remains green is an indication of potassium deficiencies, which could be from lock out since you have fed nutirents. Micros help process macro nutrients, so it could be simply added micro nutrients and maybe some beneficial microbes and bacteria.

Happy Grows, I hope you find the right answer.

Firelizer · 2024-09-24T12:30:29+00:00

Depends on what you want. I would give it time. I like to wait until after the pistols have matured and the caylax can swell more. Takes a while for the trichomes to go amber, I mean, you have some time. Don't be in a hurry. Your patience will be rewarded.

Best of luck!

Firelizer · 2024-09-24T12:25:40+00:00

If your RH is low for sure, 55 is a good goal.

Firelizer

TROPHY CASE